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Motor has no power

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bigeazy6969

Probationary Member
29
0
Jan 28, 2009
Colo Spgs, Colorado
Ok so my 92 GVR4 wants to give me lots of trouble. I decided one day to fix the exhaust manifold leak, new plugs, new wires, and new valve cover gasket. Oh and btw it was running decent befor this. So I go to drive it the next day and it is absolutly gutless and sounds like a weedwaker. I have gone thru almost everything i can think of tring to fix this problem. So now befor I :banghead: hopefully someone can give me some fresh ideas to try. Any help well work. Thanks guys:thumb:
 
Specifically what is it doing? Slow spool? full boost no power?
 
I would definitely start with a boost leak test. Is the car missing, falling flat on its face when the boost comes on, or just having a general lack of power? What do you mean sounds like a lawn mower? Like there is an exhaust leak? You sure you got all the gaskets in and everything torqued properly? Are the plugs seated all the way? If you didn't torque them enough then you will have issues of cylinder pressure escaping past the plugs and may end up blowing a plug strait out of your head. Ask me how I know.
 
That is something i have not tried yet is the boost leak. It has just a all arourd lack of power. As for the sound it sounds like its running on 3 cylinders. But siting at idel it runs perfect. Oh also I bought this car and it has adjustable cam gears. I never really liked them but could one of those have sliped? Just trowin that out there. Thanks
 
Considering we all run "interference" motors, meaning its not possible to keep the camshafts in place and spin the crank/rotating assembly without the the pistons hitting the valves, if your cam gear "slipped" chances are you would have valve damage. I'm gonna go with the plugs aren't torqued or gapped correctly. If the gap on one plug is too great, its possible that the spark could be getting blown out. This would explain why it would idle fine, but once it sees some rpm and some real airflow (boost), it would start to miss. The fact that it ran fine before the plug/wire swap tells me that this could be a very logical explanation. I'm also assuming that you used the only plugs that a car of your resemblence would like to run on, being NGK part#- NGKBPR7es. Good luck with it!
 
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