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Mods suggestion for 1000 bucks

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915dsm

15+ Year Contributor
202
0
Nov 9, 2010
El Paso, Texas
Someone,

i need help deciding whats my next mod should be with a budget of 1000, can anyone help and suggest.

My current mods are:

CX Racing FMIC, 16g Turbo, HKS BOV, 1g Throttle Body, 255 Walpro Fuel Pump, 550 Injectors, AFPR, Ported O2 housing, Ported Exhaust Manifold, 3" Custom Straight Exhaust, AEM TruBoost Controller, AEM wideband.

tunning with ceddy mods.



thanks
 
I ran a 13.7 1/4 with 217k on my GSX.
Mod list:
Evo 2 16G
1000cc PTE's
3" turbo back exhaust
Evo 9 fuel pump
intake
fmic
DSM link V2 tune at 20psi
Built A/T
Ported 2G 02
A lot of it is in the tune as well. Your set up should get you what you want :) Good luck.
 
Someone,

i need help deciding whats my next mod should be with a budget of 1000, can anyone help and suggest.

My current mods are:

CX Racing FMIC, 16g Turbo, HKS BOV, 1g Throttle Body, 255 Walpro Fuel Pump, 550 Injectors, AFPR, Ported O2 housing, Ported Exhaust Manifold, 3" Custom Straight Exhaust, AEM TruBoost Controller, AEM wideband.

tunning with ceddy mods.



thanks

Upgrade your BRAKES.......
Going fast is cool, being able to stop is required. ;)
 
Your mod list looks pretty good so far. Should be a fun car. What max psi are you seeing? Whats your timing look like? Maybe post up a log for someone to review.

Id fix the current issues before looking at cams, etc. This thread is extremely random so far.
 
So ceddy mods is not the only software we can flash the H8 ecus?

ceddy mods is the name of the guy who first found out about flashing the h8's. his user name was Ceddy. flashing the ecu you should be using evoscan and ecuflash. i use the ceddy mods too and it can just as much as DSMlink can.
 
Thanks to everyone who has replied, ill fix the head gasket and install the arp studs. Probably replace the piston rings and main bearings. Ill definatetly do the balance shaft elimination, and all seals as well.

Ill project for a bigger project once i get to this goal with the current setup.

Once i have the car ready, ill post up some logs of my beginner tune f or help.
 
My advise is keep the set up you have, work out your injector problems. looks for dsmlinkv3 lite, it's cheaper than full and offers everything you need, unless you want TOTAL control and have an all out drag car you don't really need the full version. So i'd say work out the bugs, oem metal head gasket, arp headstuds, and dsmlink. you can usually find pretty good deals on it used.
 
Before the 1g tb, my WOT afr was going up to 10 and i have changed it to 12.5. I just instaled the 1g tb and was fixing some leaks. As of know i do have knock all over my rpm ranges. Im just gonna change the head gasket and re- tune with the new changes.

Ill be doing this soon. I want this car to be my daily driver and have fun both on the street and track.

Not to step on what others have suggested, they are good. But you should really try retuning before you go and make a bunch of other mechanical changes... AFR to me is a bit on the lean side, maybe try dropping it down closer to 11.5 and that could help with the knock issue at the same time because that isn’t helping your issue either. The more knock your ECU sees the more timing it will pull and that will have an effect on the way your car runs at WOT. Once you have that squared away then start looking at H.G./ head bolts, cams, and a clutch, (maybe brakes if you can afford them).
 
Unless you have a specific reason to pull the head then there is no need to pull it simply to change the headgasket. The stock one is plenty strong as long as your motor is in good shape. Just install the ARPs in one at a time and follow the correct installation and torque down procedures. Plenty of others have done it including myself and I was on a t3/t4 running 25 psi and now im on a FP HTA 35r running 27 psi.

Safety maybe, all depends how many miles the OP has. I just changed mine out just to be safe when I put in the 16g/18g.
 
What does the compression look like for the motor? Did you rewire your fuel pump? How about some shifter bushings and motor mounts to improve shifting? With high mileage those are sure to be pretty worn. Are you staying on top of the timing belt changes? No boost leaks, right? Plug gaps?

I don't know that it's worth pulling the head only to replace the studs/head gasket. Running 20 lbs of boost will likely push you to the point of needing a full rebuild sooner, especially with that mileage. And keep some money aside for a clutch.

How confident are you in your tuning abilities? The tuning is the biggest part of it after you install your mods. Personally, I'd suggest ECMlink. It sounds like you have a decent mod list already, the trick is to get those mods to work well together through the tuning.

Any plans to upgrade brakes and suspension? That'll cost some good money too.
 
What does the compression look like for the motor? Did you rewire your fuel pump? How about some shifter bushings and motor mounts to improve shifting? With high mileage those are sure to be pretty worn. Are you staying on top of the timing belt changes? No boost leaks, right? Plug gaps?

I don't know that it's worth pulling the head only to replace the studs/head gasket. Running 20 lbs of boost will likely push you to the point of needing a full rebuild sooner, especially with that mileage. And keep some money aside for a clutch.

How confident are you in your tuning abilities? The tuning is the biggest part of it after you install your mods. Personally, I'd suggest ECMlink. It sounds like you have a decent mod list already, the trick is to get those mods to work well together through the tuning.

Any plans to upgrade brakes and suspension? That'll cost some good money too.
Just read more of your replies after I posted... looks like you have a decent grasp on how to work on the car. I'm betting you've done a lot of the checks I asked about.
 
CX Racing FMIC, 16g Turbo, HKS BOV, 1g Throttle Body, 255 Walpro Fuel Pump, 550 Injectors, AFPR, Ported O2 housing, Ported Exhaust Manifold, 3" Custom Straight Exhaust, AEM TruBoost Controller, AEM wideband


Get an EVO 3 intake manifold(take the manifold to mitsubishi and have them match the gasket) 150-200

EVO 3 Exhaust manifold 100.00

Port match 100-150

Fuel pessure regulator and fuel lines line 200-300

EVO 8 valve spring upgrade 150.00 new or less is used 100.00 or less

And this is only 900 or less and more HP and better airflow :thumb:

Maybe someone can check my math or is there something better than this upgrade?
 
What does the compression look like for the motor? Did you rewire your fuel pump? How about some shifter bushings and motor mounts to improve shifting? With high mileage those are sure to be pretty worn. Are you staying on top of the timing belt changes? No boost leaks, right? Plug gaps?

I don't know that it's worth pulling the head only to replace the studs/head gasket. Running 20 lbs of boost will likely push you to the point of needing a full rebuild sooner, especially with that mileage. And keep some money aside for a clutch.

How confident are you in your tuning abilities? The tuning is the biggest part of it after you install your mods. Personally, I'd suggest ECMlink. It sounds like you have a decent mod list already, the trick is to get those mods to work well together through the tuning.

Any plans to upgrade brakes and suspension? That'll cost some good money too.

When i bought the car a year ago, the compression was at 150 psi across. the first mods i did was the rewire, instal the evo 3 manifold which is already port matched, 16g turbo, 1g bov. last time i checked one injector bottom seat was leaking and the head gasket a 30 PSI. the gasket may me good for 18-20lbs for a while more. i am using the NGK BPR7ES gapped at 29.

the reason i want to change the head gasket is becuase its leaking. while im at it ill replace the timing belt and accesories. my clutch was replaced with a Fuchs kit. i was thinking on the suspension but just got some lowering springs with stock struts and shocks.

my tunning abilities are of a newbie. when considering getting dsmlink, i saw the cheaper route with flashing my 99 ecu. i prepared it for ceddy mods. for sometime i thought i was getting it there, but all of a sudden it started to go down the latter. i dont know if i was doing pulls to much and logging. the good thing theirs a local guy that tunes with link and ecuflash, ill be searching for his help if i dont pull it through. i think i also need another clutch. i have replaced master and slave cylinders.

i wished i would have seen your posts earlier. i already bought the follwing mods.

FP manifold $150
750 Rc injectors off an EVO $150
HKS cams 264/272 $325
evo 8 MAF x2 $60
spring for 50 mm tial BOV $30
magnacore plugs 8.5 $50
paint job supplies 300

all totaling 1065. (DAMN)

and i didnt install the studs or gasket.

ill be saving up for this next for sure. i know i should have spent the money a bit wisely.

thanks for your advice and let me know your thoughts to the questions i answered.

CX Racing FMIC, 16g Turbo, HKS BOV, 1g Throttle Body, 255 Walpro Fuel Pump, 550 Injectors, AFPR, Ported O2 housing, Ported Exhaust Manifold, 3" Custom Straight Exhaust, AEM TruBoost Controller, AEM wideband


Get an EVO 3 intake manifold(take the manifold to mitsubishi and have them match the gasket) 150-200

EVO 3 Exhaust manifold 100.00

Port match 100-150

Fuel pessure regulator and fuel lines line 200-300

EVO 8 valve spring upgrade 150.00 new or less is used 100.00 or less

And this is only 900 or less and more HP and better airflow :thumb:

Maybe someone can check my math or is there something better than this upgrade?

hey mitsukid,

i already have that mani and port match as well. i bought it with the walpro 255,evo 3 16g, 1g bov. i already have a AFPR installed set at 43 psi i think.




thanks for the advice.

Not to step on what others have suggested, they are good. But you should really try retuning before you go and make a bunch of other mechanical changes... AFR to me is a bit on the lean side, maybe try dropping it down closer to 11.5 and that could help with the knock issue at the same time because that isn’t helping your issue either. The more knock your ECU sees the more timing it will pull and that will have an effect on the way your car runs at WOT. Once you have that squared away then start looking at H.G./ head bolts, cams, and a clutch, (maybe brakes if you can afford them).

Hey mike,

i think my afr is at 11.5 right now. its to late now for the mechanical changes, i bought some other goodies that i will install soon after we finish the paint job. ill definatelty start retuning when i install the goodies except the cams. ill do that later when i remove the head.thank you for the advice.



Hey look at that, ITS MY ANIVERSARY TO TUNERS. :hellyeah::rocks::D
 
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