Max safe boost? [Merged 10-6]

[Turbolaser]

Is it safe to do the boost contol solenoid mod on a stock 1G?

 

[95AWD6Bolt]

Its all about your tune and where the powerband of your turbo is.

Do you have any experience tuning?

 

[Rankin_59]

Not really, this is my first DSM. I've been reading the Wiki and watching some videos on ECMtuning.com to get some more knowledge on tuning

 

[snowborder714]

Main things you want to watch out for when tuning WOT are knock (you don't want any) and IDC % (injector duty cycle - you preferably don't want more than 80%). These two will control what the max boost is. If I was you, I'd take a current WOT log to see where these values stand (as well as others), as long as you do have a decent tune on the car. Then from there, you should be able to gauge how much boost you can add.

 

[T is for TURBO]

With my setup, (stock maf) with nothing but a solid base tune, I had mine turned up to 19psi, with it tapering off to about 17psi (due to minor boost leaks) and it was rock solid and zero knock, and it pulled like a raped ape. This was with 93oct. and with the stock 9.5A/F, no added timming. However, your milage may vary.

I started to lean it out, but the weather got bad, and the car never came out of the garage after that due to the snow starting to fall. The car will be losing T-28 for a FPGreen in the comming weeks, so this is as far as I'm taking that turbo. I will say though, the T-28 is one hell of a fun turbo.

FPBig T-28
fic 950
wally 255 w/ AFPR
fmic
forged bottom end w/ Ross 8.3:1
dsmlink 2.5
hks 272
3" exhaust

Edit: Ditch the voodoo boost controller. I had one and it was a POS. It will work for a little while, but the spring will fail.

 

[Rankin_59]

Oh okay. Thanks for the help everyone

 

[MemphisGSX]

I vented my blow off valve, I had rough idle at first but I switched to an intake that was sealed and didn't have a recirculating tube and my logger is telling me I'm not running rich at all and I don't have any problems.

 

[GSXReHab]

Rebuilt motor with forge internals but used factory crank cause I heard they were a beast. Was this a good idea? Also new rebuilt motor has only 40 miles on it. Been trying to break the engine in but motor is overheating. I never let the gauge get into the red but all the water is boiling out of the overflow first. I changed the thermostat (I could see it was broken when removed). But that didn't fix the problem, unless the brand new one broke too?, hadnt checked that yet. It wll idle all day and never get hot. Both radiator fans come on like they are supposed to and I can see the water circulating. Then I go for a ride and it gets hot. Is it just the friction from the new engine or something? I've been breaking it in but not ever going past 5k RPM, running it but not killing it. New oil looks great, no water. My project cant progress until I fix this and I'm pulling my hair out

sorry. help on my thread though while your at it

 

[dsmadam]

So im Curious... i have 100% stock 1g... wanna put on a mbc... do i need to do anything to the stock boost solenoid?? do i still need to cap it off?? do i just completely remove it?

 

[DSMDEMON93]

So im Curious... i have 100% stock 1g... wanna put on a mbc... do i need to do anything to the stock boost solenoid?? do i still need to cap it off?? do i just completely remove it?

You can just remove it, and the vacuum lines that had routed toward the solenoid, plug into the MBC.

 

[dsmadam]

You can just remove it, and the vacuum lines that had routed toward the solenoid, plug into the MBC.

thanks... i ended up looking at it... and just did it today... haha 14 psi much more fun then 9

 

[Blownuptsi92]

Right now my tsi is running 10psi and it doesnt make the power id like it to. Its.setup to be a 300hp car but im not making near that. Right now it has a stock jdm bottom end rebuilt head. I have arp studs on it fmic bigger injectors after market rad greddy bov walboro 255 16g lockin rear diff 2g maf cold air exhaust boost controller coil overs subframes front and rear sway bars then a safc ii fpr guage. I just bought the car so im new to this.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Where is your wideband? How is the car tuned? What are you using to tune it, cant just crank up the boost or guess, you need proper tuning devices a wideband a must invest in one around 200 bucks. Upgrade path, and do some research on here for tuning and so forth lots of information once you begin to look around and read. Once you do those things youll learn a lot right off the bat.

 

[Bud92gsx]

You need to be a little more specific on mods.You also list fp gauge, do you have the regulator too?

FILL OUT YOUR PROFILE!

 

[-Boosty-]

sounds like you need to get an AFPR, a boost gauge and a wideband and or egt gauge, so you can safely tune it. Some people will argue the afpr, but i can tell u from experience if your running a 255 (with or without re-wire, if you havnt rewired you WILL need to do that) on a stock fpr, your running too rich, and its robbing you of power. If you have the cash id advise some logging software as well like dsmlink etc. These basic things should allow you to tune for nice boost levels around the 20lbs mark, depending on the rest of your setup. Dont expect a stock clutch to keep up with that for long tho.

Also as said before, RESEARCH the hell outta this forum, my head now weighs twice as much as it did before i registered here.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

And what's a "Cold Air Exhaust"?

"after market rad greddy bov walboro 255 16g lockin rear diff 2g maf cold air exhaust boost controller coil overs subframes"

Sounds like a hell of a mod. Pictures?

On a serious note - 300hp is achievable with the mods that you have, but without being able to properly attribute your vehicle to produce the needed fuel to run higher boost on that 16g, you're going to detonate the engine. Keep it around 12-14 psi until you can get your fuel setup to accommodate. A set of 650's on 18-20psi should be more than adequate for you.

 

[elterror]

And what's a "Cold Air Exhaust"?

I think he ment Cold Air Intake!

 

[Artago]

Without a wideband and something to tune with (cough DSMlink cough). 0 PSI is "safe"

 

[elterror]

Right now my tsi is running 10psi and it doesnt make the power id like it to. Its.setup to be a 300hp car but im not making near that. Right now it has a stock jdm bottom end rebuilt head. I have arp studs on it fmic bigger injectors after market rad greddy bov walboro 255 16g lockin rear diff 2g maf cold air exhaust boost controller coil overs subframes front and rear sway bars then a safc ii fpr guage. I just bought the car so im new to this.

It all depends on your tune man, you can have a great tune on a small 14b make 300+WHP and have a happy engine. Or you can just slap a bigger turbo get a grappy tune and run what a 14b can run and have a not so happy engine... Is not all about the turbo all the time that can help HP, but dont get me wrong it is a big part! Fuel, Air, Combustion!

 

[Calan]

I'm surprised nobody has ever asked this before.

Oh wait, they have...hundreds of times.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...-boost-merged-10-6-a.html?highlight=max+boost

In the future, please use the search function.

 

[cliffkemp]

Right now my tsi is running 10psi and it doesnt make the power id like it to. Its.setup to be a 300hp car but im not making near that. Right now it has a stock "JDM" bottom end rebuilt head. I have arp studs on it fmic bigger injectors after market rad greddy bov walboro 255 16g lockin rear diff 2g maf cold air exhaust boost controller coil overs subframes front and rear sway bars then a safc ii fpr guage. I just bought the car so im new to this.

Did you used to have hondas? JDM means nothing on these cars. You do need a few guages so you can see what is going on with the car. It would be good to have a wideband, EGT guage, and a way to log too.

The 16g will get you around 340 crank hp. Best thing to do is to take it to a professional tuner and have it done right.

 

[LiquidX]

JDM eh? So you have the same exact block everyone else has.

safe amount of boost largely depends on what your logger will tell you.

 

[Blownuptsi92]

Ok so I was shooting for about 300hp when doin this build and right now the cars tuned for 10psi and its not near the amount of power I want from it. I feel like I have many of the supporting mods to make more boost, but then again I just dropped an 80k jdm block in and a rebuilt head and want to preserve it as long as i can . Heres what the run down is on the car: ACT 2600,FMIC,16g turbo,mishimoto rad,walboro fuel pump,greddy bov,not sure what size injectors 550?, but they are aftermarket,ARP headstuds,Locking differential,2g maf, manual boost controller, safc II and alot of suspension work/parts

 

[Cdc1221]

It looks like you have all the mods to run 19 or 20a but definitely dont run it that high all the time. One quote you can go by. You dont build it for a long time, you build it for a good time . Basically if you want it to last 200000time miles dont run full boost all day

 

[slvrbllt]

it seems like it will handle the boost but dont use high boost all the time only when necessary
just my $0.02

 

[SkyGrowsCold]

Didn't you already make this post? There was some answers given to you as well as a thread asking many of the same questions with many answers which your first post was merged into. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/143197-max-safe-boost-merged-10-6-a-45.html