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Master engine kits

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D Loco

10+ Year Contributor
57
0
Jan 29, 2012
Noble, Oklahoma
I am lookintg to do a complete rebuild on my motor i don't want to get ripped off or loose money doing it. i found a master engine kit at ron's precision machine for a little ove 1200$. the kit comes with Pistons, wrist pins, rings, main bearings, rod bearings, thrust washers (if applicable), jack shaft bearings (if applicable), cam bearings (if applicable), camshaft(s), lifters (if applicable), freeze plugs, gasket set, complete timing kit, and oil pump.standard size or oversized pistons and std. size or oversize main & rod bearings and the cost of the kit is the same price. I called and talked to somebody and found that out for sure. For a lttle over 600$ the kit stays same except u don't get the camshafts, lifters, and timeing kit. if anybody knows wether this is a good deal or anywhere else i could find a better kit i'ld really like to know. 1990 tsi FWD
 
IMO don't get a kit, just piece together your own. I'm not familiar with that specific kit but atleast if you do it yourself you know exactly what parts your getting and more importantly the quality of those parts.
 
IMO don't get a kit, just piece together your own. I'm not familiar with that specific kit but atleast if you do it yourself you know exactly what parts your getting and more importantly the quality of those parts.

the guy i talked too started naming off the brands and some of the stuff comes OEM i think it was pistons he said was wiseco and i can't remember the other brands but he saidthey were all quality parts nothing from china.
 
You can simply get a felpro gasket kit, look for a vendor whose doing a sale on engine internals (MAP is having one right now) then get some ACL rod/main bearings, and a timing kit and you pretty much set to rebuild it. I may have forgotten a thing or two like plugs and a oil/water pump. Goodluck
 
I agree on piecing it yourself, you get more for typically less. And wtf does yup provide the op? Are you doing a stock rebuild or wanting to push big numbers?
 
I agree on piecing it yourself, you get more for typically less. And wtf does yup provide the op? Are you doing a stock rebuild or wanting to push big numbers?

i was thinkin about doin a stock rebuild cant't afford a rebuild for the track at this time. Honestly i don't even know if i need too. Motor still runs strong i was just fixing to redo the whole timing side and water pump and put all new pulley's in and figured instead of to pay to have that done twice might as well get a rebuild done so i wouldnt have to worry about running into problems for about another 80,000 miles or so.
 
You can take the oil pan off and the #4 rod cap for a good idea of the engine's condition

i really appreciate a that bit of info when i atake it to my mechanic i'll have him check that. also if i do rebuild is it actually nesecary to do the camshafts and lifters or would just changing rings pistons bearings and gasket do me good.
 
Check the compression on the engine. IF it is good than there is no need to pull a perfectly good engine apart. I see so many guys do this than end up with twice as many problems because they didn't know what they were doing.
 
i watched a couple of vids on youtube on how to do it since i need to change plugs any ways it will work out perfectly. So if compression test comes out even i shouldn't rebuild anything internal just do my timeing and water pump.

Yes, if the engine is healthy than there is no reason to pull it apart. Timing and water pump are just maintenance.
 
I know ive seen it somewhere on here but can't find it now but what plugs and wires should i get can't remember names only remember it wasn't bocsh platinum. iknow ive read instead of wires get coil on plug but if wires are alot cheaper i need those. i'm a noob jus so u know. so please don't act like i'm retarded. ty
 
Standard NGK plugs(BPR6 I think) or standard copper core plugs. Standard wires will be fine for you unless you can also get some magnecors, NGKs, or something of the sort.
 
Standard NGK plugs(BPR6 I think) or standard copper core plugs. Standard wires will be fine for you unless you can also get some magnecors, NGKs, or something of the sort.

Thanks i knew it was 3 letters that started with an n but couldn't remember the other 2. and the magnacors were the wires i read but couldn't remember the name.
 
What would be the best set of slotted rotors i could get for less than 160? I was thinking about buying some EBC's. and what would be the best set of pads for less than 60? i was thinking about buying carbon metalic pads but i don't know if these are good. heard they last forever though and don't dust but still have good stopping ability.
 
D Loco said:
What would be the best set of slotted rotors i could get for less than 160? I was thinking about buying some EBC's. and what would be the best set of pads for less than 60? i was thinking about buying carbon metalic pads but i don't know if these are good. heard they last forever though and don't dust but still have good stopping ability.

I know carbon brakes work good but can get annoying for the ladies. Something about going through the windshield every time you go to stop, LOL. And they tend to be all or nothing. Mine work great on the street. But snow or ice and ya get sudden lock up on one wheel if there is no ABS(all but stopped) its not to bad but takes getting used too. And I'm an aggressive driver that brakes very hard on occasion for fun and very hard on occasion to not hit deer. After a year they still had a bit more than 3/8" of pad left.
 
What would be the best set of slotted rotors i could get for less than 160? I was thinking about buying some EBC's. and what would be the best set of pads for less than 60? i was thinking about buying carbon metalic pads but i don't know if these are good. heard they last forever though and don't dust but still have good stopping ability.

For that kind of money i would just go buy a set of 93+ dual piston calipers and rotors from the parts store. You will have way better braking than with some aftermarket pads and rotors on the stock calipers.
 
For that kind of money i would just go buy a set of 93+ dual piston calipers and rotors from the parts store. You will have way better braking than with some aftermarket pads and rotors on the stock calipers.

i bought brand new back rotors from o'riely's like 5 months ago and the chep pieces of scrap metal already rusted up my car still ain't got enuff power to do caliper upgrades just trynig to find good rotor and pad upgrades untill i'm able to get a turbo upgrade right now i'm still on the stock 14b when i'm to the point of looking for a bigger turbo i'll look for bigger calipers, rotors, etc. Atm i dont think there's a need for caliper replacement but i could be wrong.

I know carbon brakes work good but can get annoying for the ladies. Something about going through the windshield every time you go to stop, LOL. And they tend to be all or nothing. Mine work great on the street. But snow or ice and ya get sudden lock up on one wheel if there is no ABS(all but stopped) its not to bad but takes getting used too. And I'm an aggressive driver that brakes very hard on occasion for fun and very hard on occasion to not hit deer. After a year they still had a bit more than 3/8" of pad left.

glad to hear from a dsmer they're good before i spent 55$ on a pair. no need to worry about snow and ice if i drive on that i take my wifes car fwd dsm to light for ice haha.

For that kind of money i would just go buy a set of 93+ dual piston calipers and rotors from the parts store. You will have way better braking than with some aftermarket pads and rotors on the stock calipers.

i will see how much those calipers cost i might buy those anyways with the good rotors and pads if the calipers theirselves aren't too expensive.

i bought brand new back rotors from o'riely's like 5 months ago and the chep pieces of scrap metal already rusted up my car still ain't got enuff power to do caliper upgrades just trynig to find good rotor and pad upgrades untill i'm able to get a turbo upgrade right now i'm still on the stock 14b when i'm to the point of looking for a bigger turbo i'll look for bigger calipers, rotors, etc. Atm i dont think there's a need for caliper replacement but i could be wrong.



glad to hear from a dsmer they're good before i spent 55$ on a pair. no need to worry about snow and ice if i drive on that i take my wifes car fwd dsm to light for ice haha.



i will see how much those calipers cost i might buy those anyways with the good rotors and pads if the calipers theirselves aren't too expensive.

oh yea are they dual piston front and back or would i only need fronts?
 
i bought brand new back rotors from o'riely's like 5 months ago and the chep pieces of scrap metal already rusted up my car still ain't got enuff power to do caliper upgrades just trynig to find good rotor and pad upgrades untill i'm able to get a turbo upgrade right now i'm still on the stock 14b when i'm to the point of looking for a bigger turbo i'll look for bigger calipers, rotors, etc. Atm i dont think there's a need for caliper replacement but i could be wrong.



glad to hear from a dsmer they're good before i spent 55$ on a pair. no need to worry about snow and ice if i drive on that i take my wifes car fwd dsm to light for ice haha.



i will see how much those calipers cost i might buy those anyways with the good rotors and pads if the calipers theirselves aren't too expensive.



oh yea are they dual piston front and back or would i only need fronts?



All rotors are going to rust if they sit. They are made of un coated steel. I've installed literally 100's of brake best and wagner rotors. They are fine. Also power has nothing to do with needing good brakes. IT's all about being able to slow down. You can go 140+ in a stock car.
 
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