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2G Many Problems. Dont know where to start!

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ArcticChill22

10+ Year Contributor
74
0
Nov 19, 2009
Byrdstown, Tennessee
So a month ago I bought a 99 GST from a private seller. According to him everything is stock except 16g turbo w Greddy Profec Type S Boost Controller, FMIC, Hard IC Piping, 1g BOV. 255 Walbro FP. Car has an aftermarket boost gauge and an A/F gauge. So the car drove good when I first bought it except I noticed the Greddy Profec wasn't hooked up right so I got that working and turned the car on 18 psi. Turbo spools from 3000 and holds boost fine thru all rpm ranges but does run rich due not having an AFPR yet. One day I was driving and the alternator/water pump belt broke so I had drive the car 2 miles to the nearest autoparts store because I was 3 hours from home. I tried to minimize how hot the car got by driving a few minutes then shutting it off and letting it cool for 10 minutes or longer then go again until I finally made it. But on the belt, problem solved. Drove home. Fast forward to now and the car seems like its overheating but the stock temp gauge still reads normal. It is so hot its boiling inside the upper radiator hose and inside the overflow. I can squeeze the upper pipe and it isnt stiff at all. Also now my car drives like its an N/T. The turbo spools fine still and holds boost still but the car just doesn't pull. There is no lifter tick, no smoke out the pipe, no shaft play in turbo. The things I have noticed though are my dipstick smells like gas, the car heats up to normal VERY QUICKLY. It seems like it only takes one minutes to go from cold to normal. Radiator fan kicks on and off. I have not done a boost leak or compression test yet. I still have to build a Boost Leak tester. But I feel as though maybe the car is getting super hot and pulling time causing me to lose power even under boost? Any help would be greatly appreciated and I will try to answer everything to the best of my knowledge!
 
do u notice any leaks? Also have u looked into why the belt broke? I’ve seen many belts snap due to wear but surprisingly they are more common to break due to other issues with belt off have u tried spinning the pulleys to make sure all move smooth and free? As for the getting hot part turbo cars run extreamly got under the hood of all gauges read right and it’s not overheating may just be that it used to na cars underhood temp
 
The belt broke because my alternator is going out and the belt was worn. I know its going out because it squeals at startup and when I turn on my headlights. I am currently waiting on a new bosch to come that I just ordered. No there aren't any leaks of any kind which is surprising actually haha. I would expect some small leak from a car 15+ years old. I say its running hot because I can notice the difference in how hot it was when I first bought it under the hood as to how hot it is now under the hood. How do I assess or fix a leak under pressure?
 
The belt broke because my alternator is going out and the belt was worn. I know its going out because it squeals at startup and when I turn on my headlights. I am currently waiting on a new bosch to come that I just ordered. No there aren't any leaks of any kind which is surprising actually haha. I would expect some small leak from a car 15+ years old. I say its running hot because I can notice the difference in how hot it was when I first bought it under the hood as to how hot it is now under the hood. How do I assess or fix a leak under pressure?
Also I do have some mechanical knowledge but am no expert. I have owned one turbo dsm in the past and this car just seems to fall on its face compared to that one. When I turn my boost controller off the car holds 10psi consistently but the turbo doesn't pull at all. It doesn't pull at all unless i turn it to 18 or more psi
 
Ok so I went back out there and double checked for leaks, I found a small drip right at the thermostat housing so I managed to fix that and the temp gauge actually moved up above the halfway point until the fans kicked on after going for a short drive. I also noticed the swirling whirlpool with my cap off while warming up the car so it shows the thermostat is opening. After I parked it no more boiling over into the resovoir. Yet I still have absolutely NO power under boost even though its holding steady boost. And as soon as I pull out my oil dip stick i can smell gas. Its that bad. So I need to do a boost leak test and check all my vac hoses. I badly need a AFPR soon. But without a boost leak test what could cause no power under boost even though the gauge holds steady at whatever psi I set my boost controller to
 
I have to find someone with a compression tester and I have to build a boost leak tester. These are my next two steps and once done I will reply with the results of both.
 
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