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1G Manually changing climate control to heat.

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jmak06

Probationary Member
19
0
Feb 3, 2012
Oakwood, Illinois
Hello everyone. I Just recently have gotten my 90 Talon Tsi AWD moving. I have had it for about 18 months (I purchased it from a friend of mine for 400 dollars in non-driving but still running condition), and recently decided to go ahead and put a new clutch in it. I ended up having to replace everything clutch related (master cylinder, slave cylinder, release fork, fulcrum ball, all clutch lines, and also the bushings in the clutch pedal assembly, which I also welded to ensure the rectangular end would not have any slop.) So anyways, it is cold here at the moment, and I can't get the heat to work. The heater core is getting hot, I can feel heat in the housing it is in, but I cannot get the selector to switch over to heat. The cable moves properly, but the lever system it hooks to does not. I tried moving it by hand, and it wont move at all. Is there any easy way to manually set it to just be on heat all the time? Come summer time I will most likely replace the entire unit, but for now I cannot even drive the car because the windows ice up. If anyone has any suggestions (other than buying a heater that will plug into the cigarrette lighter) I would greatly appreciate it.
 
Lol...I did not find any rodents, nor did I have any luck wiggling it or trying to move it by hand..the little nub that comes out of the plastic box snapped off. The nub towards the bottom of the lever assembly (right by where the cable connects) is still there and moves correctly, but the top nub wont move at all, and snapped off about halfway down the nub. Is there any way I can open the box up, and manually set it to stay on heat, or do I just need to suck it up and replace it now, or if I cannot find one yet, wait till summertime and search junkyards?
 
Its definitely worth a shot. I really need to get the heat working. If it comes down to it I will just change out the entire box, or get a portable heater for the rest of the winter. It should only be another month or so that I'd have to deal with it.
 
Nice picture, LOL. Yeah, I'm sure I have the mesh over the intake. The car has been in a garage since 2002, and I got ahold if it in 2010, and it's been in my garage since then. I figure it's just seized up from not being used in 10 years. I had it out and about for the second day today, and it's running fine(ish). I took it and had it checked over by one of the local shops, and had an engine flush/oil change done. They said the timing belt looks good, and the only oil leak is from the front of the oil pan gasket, but it's barely noticeable. I'll change it out in the next couple of days. The car idle surges a bit, but it stops when I unplug the MAF, so I'm assuming that it must not be getting a good reading. I bought some cleaner for it to see if I can get it working, if not I figure I'll either replace it with a junk yard part, or look into one of the conversions, seeing as I can't really find an aftermarket intake for the 1g MAF. I could probably make one, my buddy's dad owns a machine shop, so I could probably get something fabricated, but I'm not sure the route I want to go with yet. My first thing right now is getting heat in the car so I can drive it more to figure out if I'm going to have any other problems. I already changed out all the ball joints and tie rod ends because they were looking pretty bad, but I don't know what else is going to mess up once it all starts moving again.
 
Is there any chance someone can post a picture of the position the little lever that moves the blend door is supposed to be in when it is directing the air accross the heater core? And also, is the top nub supposed to move also, or just the bottom nub? When I move the bottom nub, mostly the air just quits comming out of the vents, so I'm assuming that the top nub has to be in a certain position also. Any feedback would be appreciated.
 
With the radio out, you can see the connections that are attached to the air box that come from the rotary dash control.

It could be that: 1-the linkage is okey, but the rotary control is locked up, or similar, 2-the linkage are jammed, or lastly, the damper in the unit itself is jammed-which a full dash removal is needed to get to all of the units behind the dash...

..Im looking at a heater core replacement for the upcoming spring for next winter knowing that my core needs replacing due to being somewhat plugged....and I have to do the same-remove the entire dash to get to it. "YUK!"
 
Well, my issue is that the linkage works fine, but the lever system that controls the movement of the blend door is broken off. There is a nub at the top of the lever assymbly that is snapped about halfway off, but the bottom one is fine. The bottom one moves like it is supposed to, but I'm not sure which direction the top one is supposed to turn to finish out whatever has to happen. I know that the heater core is heating up, because the box itself gets warm, but if i put the bottom nub where the lever moves it when the linkage moves, it just makes it so no air comes out of any of my vents at all, so I assume the top nub has to move somewhere to to open up the airway, but I am not sure what it looks like inside of the box to know what I need to do. I cant really hold the bottom one in place and then mess with the top one because there isn't room for both of my hands to get in there. I was just wondering what direction the top nub needs to be turned, so that I can figure out a way to lock it in that position until it warms up and I can get an entire new assembly from the junkyard.
 
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