Changing head, what to look for

[BLOHS7844]

I'm gonna have to change my head (with the help of someone else ) and was just wondering some things that I should look at while I have my head off. I don't plan on taking it off again for a long time so this is my one shot to check anything. I will be doing some minor porting and polishing of the inlets too. Should I enlarge any oil ports? Is there a writeup on that at all?

 

[WES_393]

Oil port mod:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html

Also inspect the cylinder walls and pistons (looking for deep gouges and cracks), clean the deck of the engine really well, and I would suggest getting the head resurfaced and freshened up and a machine shop. Now would also be the time to get ARP head studs.

 

[BLOHS7844]

The arp head studs are part of the reason I don't want to take the head off again. I want to keep them from unnecessary re torquing. Can't afford a machine shop at all. How would you recommend cleaning the deck? I would be hesitant to touch it too much because I don't want to get anything in my cylinders. Also the link was very helpful so thanks for that

 

[WES_393]

So your saying you don't want to use ARP's? It is also widely accepted that retorquing head studs in an unnecessary precaution if the head was torqued to spec to begin with. Especially with a composite gasket rather than MLS or Copper. I check torque after break in and that's it. Running about 20psi on a 16g very often with no issues.

To clean the deck I would suggest a razor blade and a solvent of some kind. Once all the crud is off, hit the deck with light grit sandpaper and WD40. Wash with solvent, let dry, and install gasket. If you can't afford a shop, at least check the head surface for flatness with a straight edge and flashlight. I would also suggest cleaning the head the same way as the block.

 

[BLOHS7844]

I will be using my arps. I just meant every time you take a head off and have to torque your head studs they get weaker. and my main concern with the razor blade and sand paper is getting little chunks or grits in the cylinders

 

[toppertopper]

Why are you changing you head? Make sure the head and block are flat (if they arent you will be doing it again and again ) if you cant afford to have them machined ...You will pay for it in the end many times over...At least have them check it over

 

[WES_393]

I will be using my arps. I just meant every time you take a head off and have to torque your head studs they get weaker. and my main concern with the razor blade and sand paper is getting little chunks or grits in the cylinders

Not necessarily. Stock head bolts do stretch and are often replaced every time they are removed. ARP studs are completely reusable.

Put some rags into the cylinders and then just clean them out really well afterwards. A shop vaccuum, then WD40 and rag will do the job, then oil the walls before installing the head. But sanding with WD40 will stop a lot of the grit from falling down in the cylinders. It's either clean the surfaces really well and risk some debris getting in the cylinders, or leave the surfaces dirty and risk the head gasket blowing out.

 

[BLOHS7844]

The head has a bunch of stripped exhaust stud threads with one drilled out to 1/2in and it still stripped. If I bring it to a machine shop to check for flatness, how much will that cost?

 

[WES_393]

The head has a bunch of stripped exhaust stud threads with one drilled out to 1/2in and it still stripped. If I bring it to a machine shop to check for flatness, how much will that cost?

Maybe $40, but they might want to hot tank it first. Call around and see what the pricing is and the minimum work they will do. Some won't let a head leave until it has A, B, and C done in order to uphold the warranty.

 

[BogusSVO]

Seems you need to do a little reading...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341627-how-check-head-warp.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/413772-how-clean-head-gasket-surface.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/420313-how-fluid-test-4g63-cylinder-head.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...0613-why-not-let-your-head-belt-surfaced.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...r-how-clean-block-deck-pistons-installed.html

 

[BLOHS7844]

Wow that's actually just what I was looking for. Thanks

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

Be careful of getting power steering fluid all over the alternator and ruining it when you remove the PS pump.

Be careful of not forgetting to get new fuel injector seals for where they fit in the head or at least make sure the old ones don't get left in there if doing a head swap. You will have a massive boost and vacuum leak.

Be careful of the intake manifold spacers don't lose them...

I like to use oven cleaner to clean the old gasket off it works really good makes it EZ. Plug all the little holes and passages with something like paper towel or foil and make it so you can pull it out easily so it doesn't fall into the block. This keeps debris from all the passages. Oven cleaner, metal scraper, scrub pad and wipe.

You need to clean the threads out with a special ARP thread cleaning bit thingy. It's like expensive little thing but it's the best bet for cleaning those head bolt threads! jegs has it : ARP 912-0006 ARP Thread Cleaning Chasers

ARP Thread Cleaning Chaser (912-0006)
Thread Cleaning Chaser
Size : M12 X 1.25