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Manual transmission noise

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99greenstang

Probationary Member
28
1
Nov 20, 2013
South, Tennessee
Hey guys and gals this is my first post in this forum I have owned many 2G eclipse and I recently just got done replacing the clutch and throw out bearing in the one in question now . I have this "noise" kinda like a grinding type whirring noise , it does this In neutral with clutch pedal not even being touched and also will do it in gear with pedal not touched ( such as normal driving ) I replaced the master cylinder and got the pressure back into my clutch and bled it at the slave cylinder could air in the lines be causing this ??? I replaced with the Sachs oem replacement with their tob . Also tranny could be not sure a little low on fluid wasn't even ground where it filled it up could that cause it ? I used atf+4 . Please reply fellow members promptly I really need some help thanks!
 
You don't pack the TOB with grease. You just grease the input shaft sleeve on the trans and the TOB rides on it. If you didn't check the sleeve for burrs and grease it, I can see it having a potential issue.
 
Well I did grease the input shaft cause the clutch kit came with a small pack of grease .... I don't remember seeing anything wrong with the shaft , although the transmission was very dirty with clutch particles everywhere and black as coal . Is it possible the system could need bled and it has air in it causing something to not send as much pressure or move as far ? I'm really at a loss here

Also I have read some places now that say you are supposed to grease the TOB , just not like heavily seeing as it would sling off onto the clutch . What's the real verdict on this ?
 
Your clutch adjustment would not have anything to do with your transmission making noises. If the clutch was not bled or adjusted properly you would have hard time putting the car in gear from a stop and in between shifts. Now if you don't have this problem then your hydraulic system is bled and functioning as it should.

When the engine is running and the clutch is engaged then your tranny is spinning and when you press on the clutch disengaging it then your tranny stops spinning, if the noise stop when the tranny stops spinning the there must be a problem with your tranny. It's possible that one of the bearings in the tranny is going out, in most cases its the input shaft bearing. This is just me guessing based on your description of a problem. There might be more to it but its hard to tell without being there to actually look at it. If you can post a video on here or YouTube and post the link to it showing what it does with clutch engaged and disengaged it might be a little easier to determine what's going on.
 
Ugh I watched that video and went out here and idk if it's adjusted right or not .. Idk how hard it should actually be to press in so now I've messed with that it's proble screwed up .. I've asked 3 times how to post a video here I have one of what it is doing . So far misinformation has led to me draining 20 dollars of atf 4 and putting in 30 dollars worth of gear oil and now adjustment proble out of whack .. I appreciate everyone's help and I understand you can't be here in person to view it directly but please make sure the information your providing is assured and I will also take good guesses at this point LOL :) not flaming anyone you all are trying hard . So how do I post the video ?
 
I think if you go to advanced reply there will be an option to attach a picture or a video, you should be able to do it from there, if not then just post it on YouTube and post a link to that video
 
It just kept loading the video I'll try again later I adjusted it as followed : I turned the bolt thread and made it even with the thread then adjusted the master rod inward till it just met it . No luck on that still . Idk boys sounds like she may have to come out also the car wheels move in netrual and noise usually doesn't happen unless I rev over 2k then sometimes will last at normal idle .
 
Well I did grease the input shaft cause the clutch kit came with a small pack of grease .... I don't remember seeing anything wrong with the shaft , although the transmission was very dirty with clutch particles everywhere and black as coal . Is it possible the system could need bled and it has air in it causing something to not send as much pressure or move as far ? I'm really at a loss here

Also I have read some places now that say you are supposed to grease the TOB , just not like heavily seeing as it would sling off onto the clutch . What's the real verdict on this ?

You greased the input shaft but did you clean and grease the input shaft sleeve? The sleeve sits around the input shaft (it's just smooth metal) and the TOB rides on it. You need to clean the sleeve and check for any burrs or any high spots on it that your fingernail catches on. If there are any, they need to be polished out with a high grit sandpaper. After that, clean the sleeve again and then grease it before putting the TOB and fork back on.

There's nothing on the TOB itself that should be greased.
 
Idk boys sounds like she may have to come out also the car wheels move in netrual and noise usually doesn't happen unless I rev over 2k then sometimes will last at normal idle .

if it is in neutral wheels should not spin. that would have something to do with transmission it self. maybe synchros getting stuck. while the car is up and the wheels are moving hopefully not to fast try and hold one and see if that makes a noise or not. may not be a good idea to grab the wheel maybe put a jack under the tire to hold it. that doesn't sound like a good idea ether. DO AT OWN RISK!!!!!! OR DON'T

but i have heard that if the trans fluid/oil this will make your wheels move slowly and you be able to stop them with your hand.
 
I have no idea what u mean about that sleeve . I didn't recognize that inside te transmission . Car moves in netrual now I have no idea . I'm at a loss , beautiful car that sounds like crap .
 
I filled tranny with gear LOL what Mitsubishi recommended , I filled it until it ran out the side . The car front wheels are off the ground and they move and seem to get a little faster with gas pedal . I hit the brakes to stop them and the noise contributed still , I also popped the axle back out and noise continued . Goes in all gears smoothly ... It does vibrate and shake around 4th gear may just be where wheel isn't on idk . I'm to the point of just finding a new Trans .
 
I filled tranny with gear LOL what Mitsubishi recommended , I filled it until it ran out the side . The car front wheels are off the ground and they move and seem to get a little faster with gas pedal . I hit the brakes to stop them and the noise contributed still , I also popped the axle back out and noise continued . Goes in all gears smoothly ... It does vibrate and shake around 4th gear may just be where wheel isn't on idk . I'm to the point of just finding a new Trans .

it does sound like there is something going on with the trans it self. how did the fluid look that you drained out? before you go getting a new trans pull the one you got and check the clutch assembly torques and all that.

also "Invest $10 in a mechanic's stethoscope. They are very helpful in locating those elusive sounds, especially around the engine and transmission. A cheap and somewhat less effective alternative is to move the end of a long screwdriver along the engine or tranny while listening to/feeling of the other end of it."

What is causing that irritating noise?

While decelerating in gear, you hear a whirring or light grinding sound that gets quieter as the engine RPM/vehicle speed drops. Probably a transmission input shaft bearing or gear lash from worn gears, but could also be the rear diff or transfer case.


this is something i found in that link i posted.

it is vary hard to fix or diagnose a problem if we can't here it for our selfs. you can try to upload a video with the sound in it to youtube then post us a link this could help a lot. other wise we will all just be gessing. sorry i know that doesn't help much.
 
Fluid looked fine no metal or anything unusual . A stethoscope wouldn't do any good the noise is so loud you could hear it anywhere . What do you mean about the clutch torques ? Are you referring to the flywheel attachment through the inspection plate ? I did not torque them I just got them as tight as I could . Any other ideas boys around here want 300 for a used 100k tranny ridiculous
 
Fluid looked fine no metal or anything unusual . A stethoscope wouldn't do any good the noise is so loud you could hear it anywhere . What do you mean about the clutch torques ? Are you referring to the flywheel attachment through the inspection plate ? I did not torque them I just got them as tight as I could . Any other ideas boys around here want 300 for a used 100k tranny ridiculous

yep "flywheel attachment through the inspection plate"
Pressure plate to flywheel is
non turbo 55
All other is 168 inch-lbs

you have the 420A Modular clutch? 4 bolts hold the clutch to the flex plate?
or do you have it converted to a flywheel and clutch disk and presser plate?
 
i work at a chrysler dealer and the talon is the same car so i went to the chrysler web site and the correct fluid for your trans is mopar ms9417 mtx p/n 4773167 . as far as the trans noise it sounds like the input shaft bearing or the main shaft . i have changed these bearings . the other question i have is was the noise there before you did the clutch .
 
Noise was there before clutch change . It has the 4 bolts I don't honestly see how you could torque them that tight they would break ! I just tighten them as tight as I could surely that isn't the problem . Sounds like a bearing to me which one idk . How would I determine which bearing it is and how hard are they to replace and or get too ?
 
Noise was there before clutch change . It has the 4 bolts I don't honestly see how you could torque them that tight they would break ! I just tighten them as tight as I could surely that isn't the problem . Sounds like a bearing to me which one idk . How would I determine which bearing it is and how hard are they to replace and or get too ?

95-99 2G Eclipse Technical Manual

i know it may be hard to torque but if the manual says to do it, it should be done. you don't want those bolts coming out. if that happens you will be hating life a lot more the you are right now.

that manual should have all the info you need to do the input shaft seal.
 
I realize I'm new here, but this sounds really familiar... I had a 97 eclipse last year with the non turbo 420a motor. Here is what I learned about the car.
It had a strange grinding noise from the tranny, only with the clutch engaged. I bought a stethascope and it seemed loudest in the bell housing area. I pulled the tranny, replaced every bearing in it, installed a new clutch and tob. Noise was still there after all that.
Things to note about my car and yours...
You installed a sachs cluch and tob.
Mine had a sachs clutch and tob when I got it and that's what I replaced it with.
Tranny fluid specs are hard to come by and the dealership here sold me what their computer calls for which is Chrysler NVT-350 tranny fluid for 19 bucks a quart. Makes sense being as the transmission in mine was a NVT 350 transmission.
I can tell you that replacing the bearings in the transmission is not for the mechanically faint of heart. It is a pain. And the bearing kit is about 250 bucks without synchros. And like I said it didn't fix the noise.
I would try a mitsubishi tob if I were to do it again, but my sister in law needed a cheap car so I sold it to her a year ago and she is still driving it noise and all.
I hope some of this helps.
 
These cars always make noise from the transmission. The transmissions are crap for the 420a. Mine has made noises since I got it and I did a clutch job too. Now what I am thinking is input shaft bearing failure and or TOB. You need to use the factory OEM TOB as the others are inferior and make noise on most of these cars.

If you do fix it please share.


Also the $19/qt fluid is not worth it it shifts just like my buddies using pennzoil synchromesh
 
with the trans apart you will see which ones are bad . they will have pit marks on them .some bearings are sealed and the only way to tell if they are bad is to hold them in your hand and spin it . you will hear and feel the noise . replacing them is not an easy task .
 
Something else you need to know before pulling your transmission if yours is also a NVT 350...
If you split the case make sure you are committed to replacing at least some of the bearings in it. There is one in particular on the output shaft that has a plastic bearing cage. On mine the cage had cracked and as soon as I seperated the case halves, the bearings fell out. They are roller bearings and the cage is not the same on both sides.
Also, make sure you do your homework on how these come apart and go back together. I'll try to get you the link for where I found step by step instructions. Personally, if I were to do it over again and someone offered me a tranny that I knew didn't make that noise for 300 bucks, I'd buy it and call it a day.
 
Sounds to me like the input shaft bearing. If the sound goes away when you press in the clutch than its not the Throw-out bearing. Any time the clutch is engaged even in neutral the shaft is spinning, and would likely be one of the input shaft bearings.
 
I thought that too which is why I changed every bearing in the tranny. The noise was still there when I put it back in. The only thing I didn't do was disassemble the input shaft of all the gears and synchros... That might have been my problem, but it made noise in every gear, so I didn't figure that it was any one bearing there because if it was, then there would have been one gear that didn't make noise. I really think in my case it was the aftermarket throw out bearing, but I ended up selling the car before I had a chance to change it again. I would try going with an oem tob before rebuilding the tranny. It would be a lot cheaper and it's only a day job. Rebuilding the tranny is not.
 
I like the last post here . Mine does the exact same thing I believe I'm gonna try the throw out bearing . Ok boys and girls where do I get the real OEM throw out bearing and since Mitsubishi told me gear oil is that gonna be ok in the tranny ? Any other bearing I should change while I have the tranny back off ? Thanks sorry been busy couldn't reply . Thanks all for help
 
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