Manual transmission noise

[99greenstang]

Hey guys and gals this is my first post in this forum I have owned many 2G eclipse and I recently just got done replacing the clutch and throw out bearing in the one in question now . I have this "noise" kinda like a grinding type whirring noise , it does this In neutral with clutch pedal not even being touched and also will do it in gear with pedal not touched ( such as normal driving ) I replaced the master cylinder and got the pressure back into my clutch and bled it at the slave cylinder could air in the lines be causing this ??? I replaced with the Sachs oem replacement with their tob . Also tranny could be not sure a little low on fluid wasn't even ground where it filled it up could that cause it ? I used atf+4 . Please reply fellow members promptly I really need some help thanks!

 

[Marchev]

I don't think it's a hydraulic issue. What kind of clutch did you install? Some of the more performance oriented clutches will make some weird noises when the clutch is engaged.

 

[99greenstang]

I installed a Sachs clutch just OEM replacement from O Reilly's with their TOB . The noise stops when pedal is pushed in and I confirmed the fluid level is good in the tranny and I don't believe it is the starter , who knows it's a dodge pun intended . Any ideas bro?

How do u post a video I have one of the sound It makes ?

 

[nelliott500]

Why did you fill with ATF+4? You should be using a 75w90 gear oil like Redline MT-90 or Mitsu's own.

Based on the poor wording of your post, I can't tell if you replaced the TOB with an OEM version or not. It sounds like you didn't. I don't recommend using any TOB other than OEM. It sort of sounds like a TOB noise if you're only hearing it with the clutch engaged. If you push in the clutch pedal, does the noise go away?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I had a "weird" noise in my new to me DSM (90 Talon TSI AWD) and the previous owner supplied me with a new throwout bearing, because that is what he "thought" the noise was. Come to find out it was the "5th gear syncro rattle" because the end housing on the transmission was cracked and had been siliconed up to hold fluid. I took it off to tighten up the suspected "loose nut" on 5th gear since this car started popping out of 5th and to my surprise I found the syncro keepers, retainer and wave spring all in the bottom of the housing along with about 1/3 of the 5th gear syncro laying there also. I removed the syncro all together since it was going to come apart anyway and possible hurt things even more, and viola, the noise went away. It was the syncro rattling all along. Just MTC. Hope maybe this helps someone.

 

[99greenstang]

Well I don't know how much better I can word it I said I installed a Sachs clutch and used their throw out bearing the clutch kit was a OEM replacement and you can't use gear oil in this tranny because it messes up the syncros , Mitsubishi used some kind of special fluid ( just like all the dealers what we got is better and special ) that you either can't find or is 20 dollars a quart , many we pages have said atf 4 is what Mitsubishi recommended and that it will not mess up the tranny and is formulated for Chrysler/mopar. I'm to the point of burning this car and cutting my losses I will never buy another dodge related vehicle ..

 

[Boostdriven]

First of all you need to drain that ATF and fill the tranny with some 75w90 gear oil, ATF could be part of the reason why you are hearing noises.

When the car is idling and you can hear the noise, press on the clutch lightly, maybe a 1/4 way down but not enough to disengage the clutch, if the noise goes away then its the throw out bearing that's making the noise. If the noise is still there until you press the clutch all the way then the noise is coming from the tranny because tranny stops spinning with clutch disengaged.

 

[99greenstang]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/maintenance-repairs/404476-transmission-fluid.html. Well there is the link from this forum stating atf 4 hmm .. Noise doesn't go away unless I press clutch all the way down , how do you tell if the fork is adjusted properly or aligned properly , and how do you post a video and I will post one of the sound . Thank you all for your replies and help hopefully we will get this sorted out but who knows it's a dodge.

 

[MrCup]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/maintenance-repairs/404476-transmission-fluid.html. Well there is the link from this forum stating atf 4 hmm .. Noise doesn't go away unless I press clutch all the way down , how do you tell if the fork is adjusted properly or aligned properly , and how do you post a video and I will post one of the sound . Thank you all for your replies and help hopefully we will get this sorted out but who knows it's a dodge.

it clearly states 6 posts down
" Ok, there was no clarification of what transmission was in your car if it was auto or manual.

2G 420a Automatic trans takes ATF+4 - 9.1qts
2G 420a Manual (F5MC1) trans takes ATF+4 - 2.1qts

1G/2G 4G63T FWD/AWD Automatic (F4A33/W4A33) trans takes Diamond SP-II or DEX/MERC - 7.1qts

1G 4G63 Non-turbo FWD Automatic trans (F4A22) utilizes a Diamond SP-2 equivilant fluid such as a Dex/Merc ATF. It uses 6.4 quarts.

1G/2G 4G63 FWD (F5M33) Manual trans takes 80W-90 GLI-4 - 2.1qts
1G/2G 4G63 AWD (W5M33) Manual trans takes 80W-90 GLI-4 - 2.4qts"


if you have a 5 speed manual trans use 80W-90 GLI-4.

get that atf out of there fast and flush it. put some oil in it drive it mile or two drain it then fill it with good stuff. if it was me i would drive it for a month after putting in the good stuff and then replace it once more to make sure i got all that atf out.

atf and oil don't like to mix well.

 

[Boostdriven]

Ignore the first part of my first post I've read through that thread and Tim is right, it does take ATF, I called the dealer and the oil they have there is not very thick so it can't be gear oil, its not cheap either, $23 some dollars a qt.

Clutch adjustment would not have anything to do with the tranny noise. If the clutch disengages properly and it shifts in to gears fine then the adjustment should be correct. Step back and think about what could have happened, was the noise there before you replaced the clutch or was it after, did you do the work yourself or had someone do it? If you put at least 2 qts of oil in it then it should be close enough on oil level. Maybe drain the oil that's in it now and look to see if there is any metal shavings or flakes in it and refilled with new oil.

 

[99greenstang]

Well although I don't see your point because I have a 420a non turbo and the gear oil looks to be recommended for the 4G63 turbos .. I called Mitsubishi up and they said use gear oil 75-90 so out goes the atf 4 and in goes the gear oil . I'm a man and I can swallow my pride and admit I'm wrong as long as it fixes my car . I'll let y'all know how it goes gonna add it in within the next hour , thank you all for ## replies as well Mitsubishi said atf 4 wasn't thick enough so that's ###### the issue .

 

[Boostdriven]

Well although I don't see your point because I have a 420a non turbo and the gear oil looks to be recommended for the 4G63 turbos .. I called Mitsubishi up and they said use gear oil 75-90 so out goes the atf 4 and in goes the gear oil . I'm a man and I can swallow my pride and admit I'm wrong as long as it fixes my car . I'll let y'all know how it goes gonna add it in within the next hour , thank you all for ## replies as well Mitsubishi said atf 4 wasn't thick enough so that's ###### the issue .

Well I guess try 75-90 and see if that helps. That's weird that they told you to use gear oil because when I called my local dealership the guy said that the oil looked very thin and he wasn't sure of the specifications on, but who knows, it only took him like 10 minutes of me being on hold to figure out what the factory oil was, I didn't want to wait another 30 for him to figure out what other oil would work

 

[99greenstang]

Mitsubishi said gear oil and so did summit technical dept and so did napa . I'm gonna try it what's it gonna do grind and whine ? Oh yeah it already does that .

 

[Boostdriven]

Well good luck with the car, hopefully you get it figured out

 

[99greenstang]

Thanks I don't honestly think anyone working at any dodge , Chrysler , Mitsubishi dealership has any idea what they are talking about if they figure out your just calling them to confirm something for yourself and realize they won't make any money off you there like uhh I don't have the factory specifications on that ( like a Yankee ) check your shop manual and grab a pop while your at it junior haha .

 

[MrCup]

Well although I don't see your point because I have a 420a non turbo and the gear oil looks to be recommended for the 4G63 turbos .. I called Mitsubishi up and they said use gear oil 75-90 so out goes the atf 4 and in goes the gear oil . I'm a man and I can swallow my pride and admit I'm wrong as long as it fixes my car . I'll let y'all know how it goes gonna add it in within the next hour , thank you all for ## replies as well Mitsubishi said atf 4 wasn't thick enough so that's ###### the issue .

yes vary sorry i didn't see that you had a N/T. that was my bad!

this post has some good info that could help you alot!

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/420a-bolt-tech/374258-how-change-tranny-oil-what-use.html

"The 4G63 is not the same as the 420A and regular gear oil will not work in the NV-T350 manual transmission. Pennzoil Synchromesh works (I have it in my tranny), but New Venture Gear, the manufacturers of the NV-T350 only recommend either the Mopar NV-T350 specific fluid or Chrysler ATF+4. If you use anything else, the results aren't guaranteed to be good."

good luck man!

 

[99greenstang]

Well the gear oil didn't fix it and now the valve cover is leaking oil time to burn this dodge disgrace . I hope the whole company goes under tonight .

 

[nelliott500]

Well I don't know how much better I can word it I said I installed a Sachs clutch and used their throw out bearing the clutch kit was a OEM replacement

This is how you worded it:

I replaced with the Sachs oem replacement with their tob .

This doesn't make sense. You say Sachs but you also say OEM. Which one is it? The clutch kit may be made to OEM spec but it's not actually OEM. Unless this kit comes with an OEM Mitsubishi TOB? If it's not a Mitsu TOB, I wouldn't rule it out. Some people have had issues running any brand TOB other than OEM.

And I apologize about mentioning to run 75w90 instead of ATF+4. Apparently I was wrong. I wasn't aware that the 420na manual trans uses ATF+4. It sounded too light.

Well the gear oil didn't fix it and now the valve cover is leaking oil time to burn this dodge disgrace . I hope the whole company goes under tonight .

A valve cover leak could be a few things. If your PCV system is clogged, you could have too much pressure building and it's causing oil to push out wherever it can. It could also simply be a bad valve cover gasket. Or both. Neither one of these issues is something to get bent out of shape over.

 

[99greenstang]

Well mr I can't figure anything out unless you break it down how much more simple can it get ? Are you incapable of reading a passage and transferring information or are you just a Yankee that has to argue over nothing? I specifically said I installed a Sachs clutch kit and it was a norm replacement obviously it isn't true own Mitsubishi or beck/arnley for that matter but it's made to oem specs . You understanding the wording is not my issue . As for it's not that bad well ok let's see car moves but sounds like you have a plow behind you , spewing oil like old faithful at Yellowstone ya I shouldn't sweat it at all I mean hey it's just not working right enough money can fix it ya everything's perfect with a cup of tea . Car makes noise unless clutch is fully pressed in and I changed back to the gear oil and also the valve cover gasket is new leaking on the back passenger side , should have bought a ford I'm totally regretting it again dodge is a failure at transmissions and still is today they my as well sell u one before u leave with a new vehicle . Ugh I'm gonna stop typing I'm starting to rant I hate dodge . Any ideas besides some lighter fluid or scrap yard ?

 

[Zufelt]

Well mr I can't figure anything out unless you break it down how much more simple can it get ? Are you incapable of reading a passage and transferring information or are you just a Yankee that has to argue over nothing? I specifically said I installed a Sachs clutch kit and it was a norm replacement obviously it isn't true own Mitsubishi or beck/arnley for that matter but it's made to oem specs . You understanding the wording is not my issue . As for it's not that bad well ok let's see car moves but sounds like you have a plow behind you , spewing oil like old faithful at Yellowstone ya I shouldn't sweat it at all I mean hey it's just not working right enough money can fix it ya everything's perfect with a cup of tea . Car makes noise unless clutch is fully pressed in and I changed back to the gear oil and also the valve cover gasket is new leaking on the back passenger side , should have bought a ford I'm totally regretting it again dodge is a failure at transmissions and still is today they my as well sell u one before u leave with a new vehicle . Ugh I'm gonna stop typing I'm starting to rant I hate dodge . Any ideas besides some lighter fluid or scrap yard ?

Flaming people isn't going to get you anywhere here. We're all a group trying to help everyone out man. It was just hard to understand being that it's a OE replacement and not the actually OEM TB bearing. I'm at a loss with the thread being that most aftermarket clutches will have some "chatter" but I haven't heard of it being with something that's an OE replacement. It could very well have been the TB that was placed in there due to it not being an OEM Mitsubishi TB. Did you make sure you put grease on it before the install? That's the only thing I can think of is a faulty TB bearing. If you hate the car you might as well hate Mitsubishi, Dodge, and Eagle. Gotta pay to play man.

 

[99greenstang]

Not flaming just saying I can't make it anymore simple . No hard feelings bro I appreciate your concern and help . No this was my first clutch install and I did not grease the tob .. Let me clarify one more time this noise is there when in any gear with the clutch engaged and goes away when pedal is pressed . Could greasing that bearing really be the deal you think I mean that bad ? And I'm a ford man I've got a one of a kind sick 99 stang that was a original v6 car I fitted a 308 I built in it with electronic Trans controller and carburetor and fuel cell frame and cell pretty fun toy but hey I dropped 20 thousand In it . I just hate dodge their transmissions kill me ! Only car I like they make is the new str8 challenger . Any idea on this bro from what I've said sorry If I sounded whatever I am just really agrevated gotta have this car for college in a month .

 

[nelliott500]

Well mr I can't figure anything out unless you break it down how much more simple can it get ? Are you incapable of reading a passage and transferring information or are you just a Yankee that has to argue over nothing? I specifically said I installed a Sachs clutch kit and it was a norm replacement obviously it isn't true own Mitsubishi or beck/arnley for that matter but it's made to oem specs . You understanding the wording is not my issue . As for it's not that bad well ok let's see car moves but sounds like you have a plow behind you , spewing oil like old faithful at Yellowstone ya I shouldn't sweat it at all I mean hey it's just not working right enough money can fix it ya everything's perfect with a cup of tea . Car makes noise unless clutch is fully pressed in and I changed back to the gear oil and also the valve cover gasket is new leaking on the back passenger side , should have bought a ford I'm totally regretting it again dodge is a failure at transmissions and still is today they my as well sell u one before u leave with a new vehicle . Ugh I'm gonna stop typing I'm starting to rant I hate dodge . Any ideas besides some lighter fluid or scrap yard ?

Go #### yourself. I'm trying to help you with your goddamn problem but you're too stupid to use proper punctuation and grammar. It's impossible to follow what you're saying. Your posts are complete word vomit. Instead of just typing out every single thing that pops in to your head, try thinking about it first and then type out something worth reading. People can't help you if they don't know what the #### you're trying to say.

 

[99greenstang]

Well vulgar language makes you sound so much smarter , and cussing out the man who died on the cross for you so mature thats a bigger problem than any vehicle ill pray for you . I really just dont see how you cant understand what I am saying because ya I dont use commas all the time and literature correct paragraphs .. I have to write essays for college every time I turn around and sometimes I just dont wanna sit down and type a proper message if thats ok with you seeing as this is a car discussion not English class. I dont know man if its people up north that their ears and brain dont work correctly or what cause I can understand anything from northerns and southerns if you can understand a new york deli man arguing about a pistrami sandwich down on 51st street on lagodo then you should be able to get what im saying . You proble didnt get this far in the message due to brain block but in case you did calm down , chill out. im not here to argue and I appreciate your struggles to try and help me no hard feelings . Does anyone know if that throw out bearing would make that much noise or sound that way if I didnt pack it with grease at all? God bless you all

 

[nelliott500]

No, you don't need to type out your posts properly but you'll get a lot more help and better help if you do. If it's hard to understand what you're asking, you're either going to have people skip right over your question or give you bad information. It's not just a lack of commas. This is the original statement I was questioning:

I replaced with the Sachs oem replacement with their tob .

This is not even remotely a complete sentence. I asked you, and rather politely if I may add, to clarify your statement. I simply wanted to know if you replaced the TOB with an actual OEM replacement or the one that came with your clutch kit. It's really not that complicated. The one that came with your kit is not OEM. It is likely built to OEM spec (however, most aftermarket parts claim this but it's rarely true) but some people have bad luck with aftermarket TOBs. If you check with trans rebuild companies, they'll tell you to toss the TOB that comes with your clutch kit and use a brand new Mitsubishi TOB.

I have two things in mind based on your issue. You replaced the master/slave. Did you do a full bleed on the system to remove any air? And did you adjust the master cylinder properly? Use this video below:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYJxQyjIhUw]Proper Clutch Adjustment - YouTube[/ame]

I'm wondering if your clutch is currently preloaded. Are there any shifting problems?

My other possibility is that there's something wrong with the TOB. This could be a faulty TOB itself or a lack of proper grease. You could even have a metal burr on the input shaft sleeve that's causing the bearing to make this noise. When you push the clutch pedal in, the TOB releases from the sleeve and you won't hear the noise anymore. When you pulled the transmission out, did you inspect the input shaft sleeve for any high spots? The proper procedure is to check for high spots on the sleeve, polish out any bad spots, and then grease the sleeve so the TOB spins on it without any problems.

 

[99greenstang]

When I stated that sentence it meant Sachs the recommended oem replacement and I used their throwout bearing . Anyhow . I did not pack the tob with any grease ... All I did when installed the master is I put it in and installed fluid and undid the little valve on the slave cylinder and bled it just like brakes the 2 people method , such as pump and release and close . Any other ideas I believe I'm gonna have to pull the Trans again as bad as it sounds ... Also why would you guys say atf4 and te dealer said gear oil and so did summit just asking doesn't make much sense seems like you can just run whatever as long as it's lubed although I'm aware of the synchro issue . Any ideas boys. QUICK RECAP : 1. DID NOT GREASE TOB 2. WAS NOT OEM PARTS 3. GEAR OIL 4. BLED IT LIKE BRAKES . Maybe that will help idk feel like in speaking a foregin language