manifolds that work with holset hx35 hx40

[crash89]

Only saw a couple pics of the RedJack manifold in here. Here are some of mine. Twin scroll t3, stock housing.

499099[/ATTACH]"]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

From the 1g radiator
499101[/ATTACH]"]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

499103[/ATTACH]"]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

499105[/ATTACH]"]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

499107[/ATTACH]"]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Devilsfutbol17]

Crash89, it looks like you can fit some puller fans between the manifold and radiator am I correct? I would like to be able to get a twin scroll manifold and keep A/C if possible. My JMF TS manifold from my galant doesn't look like it will fit an A/C fan on my 2g.

 

[crash89]

Ehhhhh.. You MIGHT be able to.. You could definitely have a slim fan on the passenger side but in front of the turbo/manifold I doubt it.. One of my waste gate dumps is about a centimeter from the radiator, you can kind of see that in my last pic in the previous post.. and the turbo itself is pretty close as well. I know for a fact I cant remove the manifold and turbo with my radiator installed.. HOWEVER, I did have to move my radiator slightly back to clear my cf hood. With a stock radiator and oe style hood you would most likely have more clearance.

Heres a couple more pics, this one shows clearance you are asking about. Mind you Ive since clocked the compressor housing since this photo and also have dual wg dumps running as well.

499109[/ATTACH]"]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Heres right after I finished my down pipe and dumps

499111[/ATTACH]"]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[camfast]

Your twin scroll looks awesome man. My concerns are the clearance issues for the dump tubes, little space between manifold and radiator as well drain tube. Everything looks mighty close to each other. I wish they made a single WG provision for this manifold.... that would help a lot.

 

[crash89]

There really isnt much room with this manifold. Maybe could be something they could try to incorporate on future manifolds. I'm actually going to be going with a different radiator set up so I'll have a bit more space. the DP and dumps are all heat wrapped so I'm not too worried about them being so close to everything. This was also my very first attempt at fabbing up anything like this, my next attempt would probably be a bit different.

 

[ErikTande]

I just picked up a turbo locally. It's an HX35 that I got for $200. Very little shaft play but I'm going to get it rebuilt anyway. The turbo has a boost elbow currently on it and includes the silencer ring.

What manifold is going to provide the easiest install? Any t3? Here's a pic of the turbo:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I was looking at this one:
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=22167&cat=1622&page=1

Is there a less expensive option? Or should I just go for top quality and save myself some future headaches?

 

[crash89]

This really isnt a thread to ask questions.. More so to show people what actually works.. There are a bunch of manifold in this very thread that show you what manifolds work.. Look them up and see which one suites your needs and is in your price range.. The manifold I have was about 200 dollars cheaper than that manifold you linked. No matter which way you go you'll probably end up spending over 500 dollars.. Do some research and pick then one you want.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

MAP Tubular T3 Turbo Exhaust Manifold Kit (DSM) :: Exhaust Manifolds :: Exhaust System :: DSM :: Mitsubishi :: Modern Automotive Performance

anyone try this with an HX40? im thining im about to pull the trigger on it for the .70AR BEP in hopes for some 9s

ill review my DNP DSM flange tubular manifold with 44mm wastegate provision, ive been running it 10k miles and no cracks. if you do buy this manifold do not touch it with your bare fingers, if you do acetone the shit out of it before you run it or it will look like complete as, it holds 28psi on my HX40 daily with no issues and only cost 650. hoping this MAPerformance manifold will be much better in terms of looks and just as good if not better in durability. i hear they have a cast merge collector, interesting to think about but with a life time warranty who cares.

 

[GST2012GSX]

So no body had try the turbonetics or the treadstone t3 manifold milled! I will love to see pics of this set up!

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I decided to order an STM T3 and I'm sure itll fit the hx40 I'll get pix when it comes.

 

[goonie90gsx]

I ended up getting a Redjack Racing t3 manifold and a BEP .70 a/r housing for my hx35 and it fits flawlessly so much more room in the turbo area.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I might habe gone red jack if i didn't have to replace my rad, that was my decing factor on stm.

 

[goonie90gsx]

I might habe gone red jack if i didn't have to replace my rad, that was my decing factor on stm.

Im not sure why the other one is so close to the radiator the redjack mani i have has more than enough room for fans still also.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I was referring to the 2g rad hose

 

[goonie90gsx]

I was referring to the 2g rad hose

Oh ok

 

[iBoostDSM]

I went with the FP manifold on my setup. I didn't use a spacer like some others do, still fit nicely. Just had to dent the waterpipe a little bit.

Also if you're planning on using the FP mani make sure the compressor housing is clocked enough to clear the front motor mount on a 1g. Not sure about 2gs.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[goonie90gsx]

Im running a billet hx40 now with my Redjack Racing t3 manifold and everything fits great

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[dsmcurse]

Kyle, you probably already know this but ill say it aloud just so others that are reading along might learn somethin. On 2G cars, you order the wrong radiator on purpose. Yep, you heard right. On a 2G car, when you order a nice after market radiator, order a 1G. The mounting pegs gotta be cut off and re-welded about a inch further out, but the point of this operation is to make the upper radiator hose plug into the SIDE of radiator, not the MIDDLE. Stupid 2G radiators place the upper water hose right in the middle so its inches away from the turbo header and all the hottness. FAIL. Get a 1G radiator and go through the little extra effort to move the pegs, this will make your upper hose away from the hotness. And yes, the actual size and shape is the exact same, all you gotta do is move the mounting pegs.

1G radiators are the best simpilly because of where the upper hose is placed. 1G radiator in 2G car all the way guys

 

[Heartless]

I've been running a TurboXS T4 mani with a T4 to T3 1/2" adapter I made to bolt to the stock holset T3. Plenty of room away from my block but is closer to the radiator with my he351cw. The manifold is nice because it shifts to the passenger side a little to give more room for my v-band downpipe as well.

 

[bastarddsm]

I've been running a TurboXS T4 mani with a T4 to T3 1/2" adapter I made to bolt to the stock holset T3. Plenty of room away from my block but is closer to the radiator with my he351cw. The manifold is nice because it shifts to the passenger side a little to give more room for my v-band downpipe as well.

Ditch that abortion of a manifold setup and buy a cast iron godspeed, have the flange angle milled just a bit, cut the elbow off that compressor housing and weld a proper one on it facing the other way, and have a proper setup.

 

[Heartless]

Ditch that abortion of a manifold setup and buy a cast iron godspeed, have the flange angle milled just a bit, cut the elbow off that compressor housing and weld a proper one on it facing the other way, and have a proper setup.

Proper setup? That doesn't exist. Everyone has their own way of doing things. Just because my setup is working just fine for me doesn't mean its wrong because I didn't spend a ton of money on it. If I wanted a Godspeed manifold I would have bought one and milled it myself but I didn't want that. There is no reason to move the elbow either, it functions perfectly fine as is and routes through my FMIC without an issue. This thread is about what people are running and how its working, not for uneducated remarks sir.

 

[bastarddsm]

Proper setup? That doesn't exist. Everyone has their own way of doing things. Just because my setup is working just fine for me doesn't mean its wrong because I didn't spend a ton of money on it. If I wanted a Godspeed manifold I would have bought one and milled it myself but I didn't want that. There is no reason to move the elbow either, it functions perfectly fine as is and routes through my FMIC without an issue. This thread is about what people are running and how its working, not for uneducated remarks sir.

Uneducated? haha. That manifold is going to crack, and the adapter is going to leak. The fasteners will come loose.

 

[Heartless]

Uneducated? haha. That manifold is going to crack, and the adapter is going to leak. The fasteners will come loose.

Im sorry, maybe uneducated was too harsh or mis-informed. How long did your xs t4 manifold take to crack? How long did it take for your adapter to leak? How bad did it leak? What fasteners are going to come loose? The ones for the adapter? The manifold to head? Almost a year total and going strong of hard DD driving. Maybe theres something I should whatch out for.

 

[Cdc1221]

Mine is just a $120 eBay t3 tubular contraption that believe it or not was actually pretty heavy, and the welds didn't look like an 8 yo did them. The flange angled out towards the pass side almost perfectly for my hy's compressor cover not to hit anything, including keeping it far enough off the front roll stop, so ic routing was no issue. Anddd if it does happen to crack, I will reinforce it. Overall, I'm quite pleased with how it went together. Just have to get the downpipe made. Doesn't look like that will be much of an issue either. I'll post results later in the appropriate thread with pics.

 

[pearl4gtsi]

I've been reading through, and have a question about the manifold I have. This will be my first time using an hx35 and tubular manifold... Bought both from the classifieds. Turbo is being rebuilt but my questions lie with the manifold.

It is a very nice, very stout manifold with braces already on it.... It seems very strong. It moves my turbo closer to the passenger side of the engine compartment. I don't know what brand it is because it looks like the identifying plate came off. Does anyone know what brand this is?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

If anyone knows anything about this manifold, it's much appreciated. I would like to find someone who has used it successfully because it looks like doing my oil drain will be a PITA. Already tried and the front engine mount bracket is in the way.

It looks very similar to the one heartless posted:

I've been running a TurboXS T4 mani with a T4 to T3 1/2" adapter I made to bolt to the stock holset T3. Plenty of room away from my block but is closer to the radiator with my he351cw. The manifold is nice because it shifts to the passenger side a little to give more room for my v-band downpipe as well.