Making a quick disconnect engine bay harness. Have questions!!!

[SupremeDsm]

Hows it going tuners. Here at Full Blown Racing we are pretty busy with a few builds. One of them just so happens to be the black 2g TSI shop car. Now we are debating about a few things and need a few wiring gods to chime in on this one. We are looking at building one of if not the only first 4g63 quick disconnect engine bay harnesses. There will be roughly 4-5 quick disconnect circular connectors on the firewall. Now on to the problems. We are going to extending the harness due to the fact that we are putting the fuse box in the glove box. We was wondering if we could cut the harness on the driver side under the fender just before it enters the driver side passenger compartment? What do you guys think of that. We are going to have all harnesses disconnect at the firewall for easily removal. We are also wanting to put a quick disconnect under the drivers side fender about a foot before it goes into the passenger compartment. What do you guys think? Anything can be done we just need some input on this project! We are only going to be running what is needed to drive the car. Any input is greatly appreciated and we are hoping to have the harness completely done in a week or two. Thanks and happy tuning!

Full Blown Racing

 

[dsm'r sk1mp]

3 things,
First off it sounds like your wanting quick disconnect for the entire harness. Are you Cutting the wires after the fuse box to relocate it to the glove compartment?

Second, if you look at my project build blog(only have one) a fellow member posted a wiring harness diagram of what's needed and what's not needed. It is a very descriptive picture of an entire wire harness.

Third, I believe what you are ultimatly asking is if you would have performance difficulties by relocating the fuse box. Unless you are hacking into the harness and adding more things to the harness and fuse box you may have electrical problems.

I hope this was helpfull, cause from were I sit it looks like your looking for a opinion and not a problem solve.

 

[SupremeDsm]

3 things,
First off it sounds like your wanting quick disconnect for the entire harness. Are you Cutting the wires after the fuse box to relocate it to the glove compartment?

Second, if you look at my project build blog(only have one) a fellow member posted a wiring harness diagram of what's needed and what's not needed. It is a very descriptive picture of an entire wire harness.

Third, I believe what you are ultimatly asking is if you would have performance difficulties by relocating the fuse box. Unless you are hacking into the harness and adding more things to the harness and fuse box you may have electrical problems.

I hope this was helpfull, cause from were I sit it looks like your looking for a opinion and not a problem solve.

Yes it will be a quick disconnect for the harness. I have all the wiring diagrams that is needed. The only thing that will be wired in is a push start and speed density. Im going to put the fuse box in the glove box run the wires to the fire wall. Cut them inside the engine bay then add a quick disconnect. Continue the wires to the front of the vehicle with extrensions. I will be using the same guage wire for each connection that the wire already is previously. I will then run the wiring around the front of the car at the bottom like normal and around under the driver side fender well. I want to add a quick disconnect in the drivers side fender well so that I would not have to pull the dash to remove the harness completely out of the engine bay. Its all going to be quick disconnectors. Im guessing around 4-5 connectors to complete it. Each connector is plastick with a male/female side and 37 pins. Im removing all ac/heating and adding guages where the heater core and all that used to sit on the dash. I wont be hacking anything just extending and adding quick disconnect connectors. Im just trying to figure out with the connectors being plastic if I would have water issues, heat issues, dirt issues, ect... Also wanting to see what people think of where im putting each quick disconnect! I will be taking some photos here shortly and photoshopping them to show where I am thinking about putting each connection.

 

[dsm'r sk1mp]

The only issue I could see arising with plastic quick disconnect are wear and tear on the conectors. And seeing as your doing quick disconnects, I'm safely assuming its because the engine is predicted to be pulled out a lot. Thinking that, I'm also goin.g to assume this engine has a lot of power, this could cause heat/ melting on the disconnects. Just my educated guess. Also I would deffinatly like to see were they are goin.g to be located. Is it a consideration to put heat protection of some sort on all the quick disconnects??

 

[SupremeDsm]

Well the quick disconnects will be located where the harness originally comes out of the firewall and in the driver side fender wheel wheel. Yes this is going to be a high horsepower engine. Its a fully built 2.0 with a manley rotating assembly and built head. I will be breaking it with a 16g and then upgrading the turbo to a hx40 afterwards. Maybe see how far I can push that 16g. Im not to sure yet. I could possibly put some type of heat barrier on them. Whats your thoughts?

 

[96' Eclipse GS]

I don't know what you really want, but I finished my new "3 part" wiring harness on my n/t, which is a quick disconnect, so I had less to work with on sensors, etc. On the idea I thought of, was I made a quick disconnect at the middle of where the harness runs behind the block at the intake manifold, so I now can work with half of it easy and quick, which leads back to the alt, Oil press, etc. Also I made a quick disconnect at the acces., by the Thermostat housing running to the power steering, O2, etc. I broke into 3 parts, which is SUPER great..now it is a DD, so I keep it clean, but to fancy..haha

 

[ed1380]

Just letting y'all know that the engine harness which goes into the firewall is separate from the harness that powers the headlights and goes over the fenders/under radiator support . They are 2 seperate harnesses only connected by the 2 plugs under the fuse box.

Also the part of the engine harness goes into the firewall has 4 big plugs, a few smaller plugs, and the ecu plugs. It's already easy to remove so IMO quick disconnect plugs on the firewall are redundant.

 

[SupremeDsm]

Just letting y'all know that the engine harness which goes into the firewall is separate from the harness that powers the headlights and goes over the fenders/under radiator support

Also the part of the engine harness goes into the firewall has 4 big plugs, a few smaller plugs, and the ecu plugs. It's already easy to remove so IMO quick disconnect plugs on the firewall are redundant.

I am fully aware that it is a different harness. But since Im going to be putting the fuse box in the glove box I was thinking of putting a quick disconnect on it when it comes into the engine bay and on the driver side fender wheel well along with the wires that I will be extending.

 

[SupremeDsm]

So after reading up on some stuff here is a list of stuff that I think I can delete. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

-Boost control Solenoid
-Cruise Control
-Wipers
-Defogger
-Air conditioning
-A/C temp
-Brake fluid
-Emissions solenoid
-hood switch
-horn
-fog lights
-manifold differential pressure sensor??? Im going to be running MAP sensor from AEM so can this be deleted or do I need to splice the map sensor into this?
-Fuel pressure solenoid valve??? Im going to be running a AFPR so can this be deleted?
-EGR control solenoid
-Condenser fan motor
-Dual pressure switch
-Capacitor (Noise Condenser)
-Boost control solenoid
-Evaporative purge solenoid to ecu harness connector
-EVAP emission purge control solenoid valve
-A/C compressor
-Power steering pressure switch

Did I miss anything?

 

[ed1380]

Fpr solenoid can be eliminated

 

[zcoh2gdsm]

i believe you will need to splice into the manifold differential pressure sensor to install the map sensor. you can remove the plug but you will need the wires.

 

[snowborder714]

Just curious if you've seen this thread.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/hangout/298569-my-fuse-box-relocation-project-log.html

 

[DsMWookie]

Just an FYI a company already makes them.

 

[snowborder714]

I think they're still in the process, although close to the final product for the 2g harness though, correct?

 

[SupremeDsm]

Just curious if you've seen this thread.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/hangout/298569-my-fuse-box-relocation-project-log.html

Nope I did not see that. Thanks for the link. Also as far as that company goes on making the harness already they are still in the r & d phase of things. I called them up and they said that it would be about a year before they come out with one. And plus I could not justify paying $1000 for someone else to make me a quick disconnect harness which is what they sell them for. Its not that hard to figure out as long as you just take your time and pay attention to what you are doing. And plus I can get all the parts I need for the harness for less than $100.

 

[snowborder714]

And plus I can get all the parts I need for the harness for less than $100.

Then you don't want to be looking at my bro's thread. The parts for that harness cost much, much more than $100. There should be a listing of most of the connectors he used somewhere in there, so you can go look them up by part number.

The crimping tool alone for the connectors was almost $200.

 

[ed1380]

Just curious if you've seen this thread.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/hangout/298569-my-fuse-box-relocation-project-log.html

Curse you!!! I stayed up till 3 reading that whole thread. Amazing build. College studend budget? ya right

 

[92AWDHX40]

Love that thread its really nice, did one wiring project, gonna do another, rywire and chase bays has some nice builds. College student, when i was in college i just wanted my car to make the journey from home to school. 250 miles away, when i came home. The best part of a project car is to do it yourself, nice to have options though.

 

[SupremeDsm]

Then you don't want to be looking at my bro's thread. The parts for that harness cost much, much more than $100. There should be a listing of most of the connectors he used somewhere in there, so you can go look them up by part number.

The crimping tool alone for the connectors was almost $200.

The only reason that I can get the harness parts so cheap is because a friend of mine already has the crimpers and my other friend knows someone with a hook up at the local electronic shop. Ya im reading through his thread I remember seeing the part numbers but cant remember which page it was on. Lol

 

[BOOSTIN21]

The harness from said company is much closer than that for the 1g. Its pretty much done and the test car needs to be started to check for any issues. Not to mention, the harnesses that they already produce are TOP NOTCH! I would pay good money to not have to deal with the headaches of wiring my car again.

Are you planning on mass producing harnesses?

A lot of people wouldnt pay over $500 to have a dual pump hanger setup either... Just sayin'

 

[SupremeDsm]

The harness from said company is much closer than that for the 1g. Its pretty much done and the test car needs to be started to check for any issues. Not to mention, the harnesses that they already produce are TOP NOTCH! I would pay good money to not have to deal with the headaches of wiring my car again.

Are you planning on mass producing harnesses?

A lot of people wouldnt pay over $500 to have a dual pump hanger setup either... Just sayin'

They are still doing the mock up on there 1g. Its still in the r & d phase as well. I have not planned on doing a mass production of this. I have heard alot of bad things about chase bays engine harnesses. Not to mention that they only use 1 size wire for the whole harness.

 

[3kgt2nv]

37 Pin Billet Wire Management Plug Kit with Loom || Keep It Clean Wiring

is it something like this you were going to use? the biggest issue i can see is with a non thermal rated quick disconnect they will melt or deform rendering the qd non functional. if your going with a cheaper part i would suggest a heat shield in front of the connector.

I have moved the wiring harness and have done several quick disconnect projects and the brand and quality of the connect does make a big difference. even as much as the connectors ability to hold the pins in place when pushing the connector halves together.

 

[ed1380]

A connector on the firewall isn't going to melt from engine heat.

 

[3kgt2nv]

A connector on the firewall isn't going to melt from engine heat.

a low quality plastic connector can get soft enough that it can make unhooking it more difficult.

personally to save a couple bucks isnt worth the headache it might cause down the road.

and since he said this is a track car with eventually a holset40 on it it will generate a decent amount of heat, granted in short cycles but if the connect looses integrity and becomes difficult to separate then it was a waste of time mod.

 

[ed1380]

There is no heat source near the firewall. A cheap plastic connector wont be affected even if you place it by the knock sensor