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Making a quick disconnect engine bay harness. Have questions!!!

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SupremeDsm

10+ Year Contributor
615
3
Aug 13, 2008
Indianapolis, Indiana
Hows it going tuners. Here at Full Blown Racing we are pretty busy with a few builds. One of them just so happens to be the black 2g TSI shop car. Now we are debating about a few things and need a few wiring gods to chime in on this one. We are looking at building one of if not the only first 4g63 quick disconnect engine bay harnesses. There will be roughly 4-5 quick disconnect circular connectors on the firewall. Now on to the problems. We are going to extending the harness due to the fact that we are putting the fuse box in the glove box. We was wondering if we could cut the harness on the driver side under the fender just before it enters the driver side passenger compartment? What do you guys think of that. We are going to have all harnesses disconnect at the firewall for easily removal. We are also wanting to put a quick disconnect under the drivers side fender about a foot before it goes into the passenger compartment. What do you guys think? Anything can be done we just need some input on this project! We are only going to be running what is needed to drive the car. Any input is greatly appreciated and we are hoping to have the harness completely done in a week or two. Thanks and happy tuning!

Full Blown Racing :D
 
You are looking for a mil spec connector and its been done before by yours truly.


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They are still doing the mock up on there 1g. Its still in the r & d phase as well. I have not planned on doing a mass production of this. I have heard alot of bad things about chase bays engine harnesses. Not to mention that they only use 1 size wire for the whole harness.

Your information is clearly off base. You asked about producing one and I was just letting you know it exists.

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There is no heat source near the firewall. A cheap plastic connector wont be affected even if you place it by the knock sensor

What he said. Go run your car balls to the wall and reach back and touch the firewall, ill bet you its very close to ambient.

My suggestion and what I will be doing is to flush mount the male end on the firewall, then have the female end connect to the firewall. One handed operation then.
 
Mil spec connectors are "Soldered" right? no crimper required?

BTW Very clean Work.

The wire is inserted into the milspec pin and then double crimped with a special tool for the mil spec plug pins. The tool alone is around 200 bucks. The plugs go for about 50=75 bucks per halve. Then the heat shrink boot is another 20-30 bucks. So that alone is more than the OP wanted to spend. WTF
 
The wire is inserted into the milspec pin and then double crimped with a special tool for the mil spec plug pins. The tool alone is around 200 bucks. The plugs go for about 50=75 bucks per halve. Then the heat shrink boot is another 20-30 bucks. So that alone is more than the OP wanted to spend. WTF

Lets not forget all new color coded wiring, new plugs themselves, and the pins for the mil-spec connector which can be upwards of .50 cents per pin per half. It can add up quickly. It can be done and done fairly cost effectively with the right sources, but that can be a pain in the ass. You can source a set of crimpers on ebay used, it just takes some patience in digging through the different model numbers.
 
Ok guys so I have ran into a bit of a problem. I started on my harness and its coming very nicely. Problem is that on the branch that has the windshield wiper plug on it most of that stuff was deleted. Now 2 plugs had 2 wires each running back into the harness instead of going towards the firewall grommet. I cut the plugs off because I started the at the bottom and went down. Well last night I decided to follow one of the wires which was colored white with a green strip. It just so happens to go up into the branch with the power transistor and coil pack plug. When it reaches up there it splits off and goes to each one of the plugs and changes color into a red wire before getting to the plugs themselves. Any input on what I should do? I would take a photo but I dont have a camera/smartphone.
 
So after reading up on some stuff here is a list of stuff that I think I can delete. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

-Boost control Solenoid
-Cruise Control
-Wipers
-Defogger
-Air conditioning
-A/C temp
-Brake fluid
-Emissions solenoid
-hood switch
-horn
-fog lights
-manifold differential pressure sensor??? Im going to be running MAP sensor from AEM so can this be deleted or do I need to splice the map sensor into this?
-Fuel pressure solenoid valve??? Im going to be running a AFPR so can this be deleted?
-EGR control solenoid
-Condenser fan motor
-Dual pressure switch
-Capacitor (Noise Condenser)
-Boost control solenoid
-Evaporative purge solenoid to ecu harness connector
-EVAP emission purge control solenoid valve
-A/C compressor
-Power steering pressure switch

Did I miss anything?

the capacitor (noise condensor) smooths out the voltage signal sfrom your ECU and will reduce confusion by your ECU about what signal go to it, keep it.

I did 2 harness and fuse box relocation with quick realese connector, i might mass produce them, not sure yet but, i might have to do a website so people can say what they want to keep on their harness like A/C etc.
 
Ok guys so I have ran into a bit of a problem. I started on my harness and its coming very nicely. Problem is that on the branch that has the windshield wiper plug on it most of that stuff was deleted. Now 2 plugs had 2 wires each running back into the harness instead of going towards the firewall grommet. I cut the plugs off because I started the at the bottom and went down. Well last night I decided to follow one of the wires which was colored white with a green strip. It just so happens to go up into the branch with the power transistor and coil pack plug. When it reaches up there it splits off and goes to each one of the plugs and changes color into a red wire before getting to the plugs themselves. Any input on what I should do? I would take a photo but I dont have a camera/smartphone.

are the wires that go back red or black?
 
What color were the plugs you cut off, and what did they look like?

I'm guessing one of the plugs might have been the blue engine speed test connector, which had two wires running to it. I think one wire comes from the coil pack and the other from the transistor.

Yes you are correct on where they go, one is blue and red and the other black or brown, but i dont think he is talking about that one.

EDIT: Nevermind if it changes color then is that one, those wires need to be loop together.
 
Hi guys...

Ive been doing a complete rebuild of the OEM Electronics.

Snowboarder.. I know you've you seen a lot of this

Check it out : 2G DSM

Custom Powerbox, Fully Shielded, Completely modular, All tefzel wire

Enjoy, Any questions.. let me know :)
 
You are looking for a mil spec connector and its been done before by yours truly.


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It looks as though you completely replaced the wiring on all the connectors as well, is this so? If so what length of while did you use to complete the project? I've got a few sites that I found to be quality (equal to what you mentioned in costs) but I was just curious as to materials needed to complete this.

If possible I'll PM you with a description of what I'm trying to do and maybe I could get pointed in roughly the right direction? I think I've maxed my research but just wanted an idea of where to go from where I am...
 
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