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Lifter Tick [merged] Revised lifters 3rd Gen Generation 3g

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95talontsi

20+ Year Contributor
274
0
Jun 29, 2002
Princeton,
I am fixing my valve tix by taking out the lifters or the auto valve lash adjusters. I have the valves cover off, the engine is at top dead center and I am on 3# cylinder. I got instructions off the net, now with either a tool or a standard screw driver press down on the valve and remove the rocker arm then remove the lifter. Which then I will clean out.
The question is where do I push down, The valve has the spring around is and the metal cap on top of that( forget the name of that) where do I push down with out damaging anything, I will probably have to push a bit so I do not want to damage anything. please help?
 
It was most likely lifter tick. The lifters are prone to doing this. Mitsubishi came out with a new generation lifter for our cars called the 3g lifters that will fix it. It doesnt really hurt anything you should be ok.
 
Like others have said, more then likely lifter tick which is very common on these cars expecially with the origional designed lifters in the 1g's. They have come up with 2 revisions since then & more then likely since your a 99 you have the newest revision which they call the 3g (not because they are for a 3g car but because they are the 3rd revision). More them likely they just need to be cleaned, the link is here on how to do so.

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/lifters.html

I noticed my car was getting pretty loud tick on start up, so I cleaned the lifters when I had the head apart, now its nice and silent again.
 
if i were you i would just double check to make sure it is lifter tick because my friend had a similer problem with his 98gsx where just like you said it was really loud and really annoying and he was positive it was a lifter but we removed the upper timming belt cover and discoverd that the belt was slitly loose so we checked the tenchener and it turned out to be bad which was allowing the tenchener pully arm to slap agenst the tenchener which was creating that annoying loud valve tick sound so give that a try
 
I installed revised lifters and primed them. I started it for like 15 seconds and they tick louder then before?! Do I let it run for a while and break them in or something? I just dont want to break anything. OMG WTF
 
If you bled the excess oil after priming, restart the motor and let them run for a while. Lifters that aren't filled with oil take a bit more than 15 seconds to fully fill up. If the ticking doesn't go away, check to make sure that none of the rocker arms have come off.

Let us know how it goes,

Andy
 
Another issue for lifter tick i have found can be caused by which oil filter you use, a buddy of mine with an 05 srt-4 had lifter tick problems with his car with only 10k miles on it, he brought it to the dealer and they told him it was cause he wasnt using a mopar oil filter, he was using a fram filter, i thought this was bs but then we used the mopar filter and boom the lifter tick was gone. My car had lifter tick even with my new 6 bolt swap and rebuilt head and i started thinking about it, the filters for the 90 and 91 cars were bigger then the ones for the 92 and up cars. the filter numbers for the 92+ cars where I work(jiffylube) are a MO7317, and for the 90 and 91s its a MO3950, I figured i might as well try the MO3950 filter and see if it solved my problem, sure enough it did. Put it on and no more ticks.
So go to an autoparts store and look up a filter for a 90 or 91 turbo dsm. try the filter and report back.
 
I had the same problem once. I always use OEM filters though. I bled the lifters, and re-primed the system after the head was on, and the car had lifter tick like crazy. I was however, using 15w-50 Mobil synthetic oil. However, after about 15min, the tick went away, and hasn't come back since, even with new oil.
 
Ok, heres the deal, Im by far not a newbie to this but I cant even begin to think where to look so I cant search this that well, Im just looking for help to localize this problem. I just rebuil my motor completely. New rods, pistons, rings, rod bearings, had the head fully machined. I know the timing is 100% correct because I kept getting it a half tooth off so I took it to a shop and they got it perfect. The motor now idles around normal to 1000. I do have high compression pistons and hot plugs in there, ngk of course. When it sits there is almost like a vibration sound coming from either inside/below the intake manifold or under the valve cover. When you drive it the vibration/tick/knock, whatever you want to call it goes away until you start to let off the gas, when you let off totally and the motor, I guess you can say evens out the sound goes away, when you accelerate again it comes back and so on. I thought at first it could have been the header being loose but it is torqued to spec. I know the head blots, mani, ect are torqued to spec. Also, the pick up when you get on it seems to be less than what stock was. Im leaning to maybe the piston hitting the spark plug but the knock would be there constantly, and I think it would be a lot louder. Any one ever had this problem or anything similar? I know this isnt a lot of info but Im totally lost and cant think of where to look to tell ya more of whats wrong. ANY suggestions would be a help. Im prob gonna take it back to the shop tonight and have them look at it but in the mean time please give me any input that might help!

Thank you for any help guys
 
I would look at some simple things like the valve cover baffles coming loose and rattling against the cams at certain RPM's. If you have a chance, grab a mechanic's stethoscope and listen for where the sound comes from.

Start with simple things first and please keep us posted so we can toss more suggestions out there.

Good luck!

Andy
 
So basically when you are at nuetral throttle(not accelerating not decellerating) you hear a knocking in or around the cam cover? The last time I heard that sound it turned out to be bad rod bearings. But it sounds like it could also be ignition knocking.
Like Andy said get a stethascope and start probing around especially under the car don't rule out parts just because there new.
 
I stopped up at the shop and my mechanic listened to it, he said it sounds like a rod knocking. All of the rod bearings were replaced with sealed power bearings (Im not a big fan of sealed power). Hes gonna drop the oil pan if he can get to it today and look at it. Now my question is, if the crankshaft was bad, or the cylinder walls were messed up it would be more constant on the knock, not just when im lightly accelerating and have a small sounding knock at idle correct? The guy I got the block from said he didnt use it because it had a slight knock (only found out after it was in) but when I looked at the rods before I replaced them the caps were not it the correct place and one had a small chip inbetween where the cap met the rod, hence the reason I got new rods and pistons. The walls looked fine, and I didnt see any marks on the crankshaft. I did not drop the cradle so Im not sure what the main berings look like, but my mechanic said it would be a lower tone knock and that it would be more constant if the mains were spun. So I guess basically does this sound like a bad rod bearing, and should that hopefully fix the problem?
 
Rod bearings that are starting to go generally make noise around 2500-3000 RPM. Bearings that are trashed will make much more noise at idle. At least that's been my experience. I guess you'll find out soon enough when you pull the pan.

Anything else at this point would be pure speculation.
 
I doubt your block would be the fault. If the rod bearings are bad then the rod is floating at neutral throttle therfore it has room to rattle. If you have a load on the engine the rods are putting pressure on the crank therefore they are always in contact with eachother which means no rattle.
 
I've got a ticking noise... or like someone else described, "putting a baseball card in your bicycle spoke).

Question, if it's a lifter problem, is it intermittant? Sometimes I have the tick, sometimes I don't. Also, does it progressively get louder? Mine is louder when I havn't driven the car in a while.... could it be an injector as well?

Also, the vfaq instructions for lifter cleaning - Can a moron who has never taken any parts apart under the hood involving the engine be able to do this?

Anyone have an audio/video clip of what the lifter tick sounds like in our cars?
 
I've got a ticking noise... or like someone else described, "putting a baseball card in your bicycle spoke).

Question, if it's a lifter problem, is it intermittant? Sometimes I have the tick, sometimes I don't. Also, does it progressively get louder? Mine is louder when I havn't driven the car in a while.... could it be an injector as well?

Also, the vfaq instructions for lifter cleaning - Can a moron who has never taken any parts apart under the hood involving the engine be able to do this?

Anyone have an audio/video clip of what the lifter tick sounds like in our cars?

I have this too.. it comes and goes, and the amount of time it does it for is always different.
 
What you hear could be your injectors as well. next time you hear the noice, pop your hood and let us know where the noice is coming from.

side of block(timing belt side).
top of block.
back of block by injectors.

You can try using seafoam, there are multiple poeple on here that have had great turnout by running it through the systam.
 
lifter tap is a common, i have the same problem. when i change my oil i add some marvel mystery oil and it works for a lil while but will eventually come back. when i have free time im gonna try the seafoam cleansing.
 
Yes pretty much anyone can take out and clean their lifters themselves. It just takes a lot of patience especially putting them back in.

Just follow the v-faq and dont give up when the little buggers dont want to pop back on. Its worth it in the end. And they will clack for a while right after you put them back in
 
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