Lifter Tick [merged] Revised lifters 3rd Gen Generation 3g

[95talontsi]

I am fixing my valve tix by taking out the lifters or the auto valve lash adjusters. I have the valves cover off, the engine is at top dead center and I am on 3# cylinder. I got instructions off the net, now with either a tool or a standard screw driver press down on the valve and remove the rocker arm then remove the lifter. Which then I will clean out.
The question is where do I push down, The valve has the spring around is and the metal cap on top of that( forget the name of that) where do I push down with out damaging anything, I will probably have to push a bit so I do not want to damage anything. please help?

 

[steve]

So, this is a common issue??

Yes. Common to all Mitsubishi DOHC engines that use this type of hydraulic lash adjuster. I've replaced the ones in my DSM and in my Stealths,

I used this source but there are others selling the same parts.
http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/product157.html

Steve

 

[wret]

Common? I think universal is a better adjective.

 

[oldman]

Check the torque specs on all your lifters prior to throwing money at it, and if the noise really bothers you that much use a heavy oil

Perhaps you'll enlighten us as to which torque specs the lask adjusters might have?

I will when I do it..

Don't forget to re-torque after the first heat cycle.

 

[oldman]

ALLBoostAWD and mnetwork, lifters do not thread into anything therefore require no torque specs. Please read the article on VFAQ under engine/lifter cleaning, I tried to link you to it but the site is down right now.

 

[white93pgtze]

i reccomend 3 g lifters

 

[nightspeed87]

a 3g is the ugly spyder v6 models ( well some had v6, ) its probably like a 2gb or 2gc your refereing to as in 3rd revision of the 2g.... Ive read something somewhere that the ticking lifters on our dsms are that way also because of small oil passeges.
I would just get some new ones while the heads off, I think it actually cost only 300 to get a whole new head at a machine shop ( as in cams, valves train, lifters, etc. ) Thats what Im doing. ( mines used to tick really bad, thicker oil is a decent temporarly solution until you get it fixed ) because if im not mistaken ( well at least on 1gs ) lifter tick can be confused as knock....

 

[wret]

Let's not make this any more confusing. Yes, unfortunately someone had the lack of foresight to start calling them "3g lifters." However, they have nothing whatsover to do with the 3g Eclipse and it is not necessary to remove the head to replace them, only the valve cover.

 

[nightspeed87]

Let's not make this any more confusing. Yes, unfortunately someone had the lack of foresight to start calling them "3g lifters." However, they have nothing whatsover to do with the 3g Eclipse and it is not necessary to remove the had to replace them, only the valve cover.

yea that was a error i wasnt trying to tell him to remove the whole head to fix them, i was just implying
that im getting a a whole new head for 300.
And yea i was once confused when ppl started calling them 3g because i knew they were completely different engines to all extent. So i figure it would be 2gC...

 

[4BangR-x]

Ahh, geez. If its really a big deal to you go ahead and replace them. I just use lifter tick as a sign to change the oil And no, I dont recommend doing what I do.

And I agree with calling the the new lifters revised, because if you dont people start talking about V6s and Spyders for some reason.

 

[mnetwork]

I just bought new lifters.. installing them sometime next week... Is it actually bad if they tick like that?

 

[4BangR-x]

Absolutly not. Its just not a pretty sound. Thats why I chose to save my money, and deal with it.

 

[steve]

I agree with calling the the new lifters revised.

They are called 3g lash adjusters because there were other revisions. This revision is the third that we know of.

Steve

 

[4BangR-x]

ahh yes, but revised lifters of revised lifters are still...revised

j/k dont smote me powerful wiseman

 

[mnetwork]

Oh well.. I didn't even know these were hydrolyc lifters until I took the valve cover off... I was worried because in other engines that noise is something to worry about...

 

[luv2rallye]

Of course a $7 can of Restore ($5.44 as of 11/15/07) from Walmart will also eliminate the ticking (even Defiant approved) but a $100-$400 (depending on who does it) permanent lifter replacement fix will be....um.....permanent.

I'll have to admit though I don't know the torque spec for that can so....

Restore: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/att...st-tad-bit-more-oil-no-more-ticks-restore.jpg

 

[nightspeed87]

well just keep in mind Ive seen occasions were lift tick was confused for knock on a 1g...
Im dropping a 6bolt engine in my car soon and I just opted for the whole new head on it because I dont feel like constantly putting lucas or any other temporary treatments in, but no lifter tick is better, so whatever works.

 

[pwayzjellyroll]

When I first got my car (1993 Plymouth Laser 1.8L) it had a small knock when it was cold or when the car ran for a bit then it would go away. The other day the knock was there worse, checked the oil it was a little low filled it up and it seemed ok. Now the oil is at a good level but the knock is still there now worse then ever I believe, sitting and idle and between like 3000 rpm's it ticks, then past that you can't really hear it anymore. Someone suggested to me using Marvel Mystery Oil (don't really know much about the stuff) Any suggestions on what to do or does it have something to do with the heat? It's making me go insane any insight is appreciated.

 

[streetlegends]

When I first got my car (1993 Plymouth Laser 1.8L) it had a small knock when it was cold or when the car ran for a bit then it would go away. The other day the knock was there worse, checked the oil it was a little low filled it up and it seemed ok. Now the oil is at a good level but the knock is still there now worse then ever I believe, sitting and idle and between like 3000 rpm's it ticks, then past that you can't really hear it anymore. Someone suggested to me using Marvel Mystery Oil (don't really know much about the stuff) Any suggestions on what to do or does it have something to do with the heat? It's making me go insane any insight is appreciated.

Pretty much everyone on this site uses "engine restore" it works good use it everytime you change your oil. It can be picked up at Wal-mart (cheapest place), but it's in a silver can. If it this doesn't work than you might have a problem.

 

[95talon_in_ma]

As long as your oil pressure is good, I'd say use a thicker oil in the summer. A thicker oil will cling a little more to the parts. Or even Lucas oil treatment is good too. In the winter you don't want the thicker stuff because the oil will gel when it's that cold and not circulate properly until it's warmed up. Never used the engine restore stuff, but it sounds like it's doing the same thing.
But keep in mind a tic is allot different than a knock. A tic is annoying but a knock is bad news.
Unless it's a wrist pin knock. Those are just annoying. I did the bearings in my truck thinking that is where the knock was coming from, and when I put it back together it still knocked. A wrist pin will make that same noise forever. But everybody thinks my truck is gonna blow at any moment but I've been towing my race car to the track for a couple years like that now...

 

[andymoraitis]

Yup, I recommend either 15W-50 synthetic all year round or 20W-50 conventional in the summer and 10W-30 conventional in the winter.

I've used Restore successfully on the 2.0, but I haven't seemed to need it since the rebuild. You can try it and it generally works, but thicker oil is always a safer bet since these motors make a ton of heat.

Cheers,

Andy

 

[pwayzjellyroll]

I'll have to change the oil when i get my check and put in some restore, to bad the oil pressure gauge doesn't work. I mean my mechanic said that it should be ok but i'll have to see whats up.

 

[andymoraitis]

It's funny, but here I am making oil recommendations based on the fact that your car is a turbo and it's not. Doh! I'd go at least 10W-30 conventional, but 15W-50 synthetic wouldn't hurt. Getting that oil pressure gauge working properly is important. Don't skimp on the little stuff despite the fact that it may be OK.

Keep us posted,

Andy

 

[pwayzjellyroll]

Actually I also just though of some things that may be useful, I'm currently using 10w-40 non-synthetic motor oil. I also just realized something when the sun went down, it only ticks when its extremely hot outside, otherwise it's fine. It was fine on my drive home tonight after the temperature dropped. Because when I think about it the days it was very noticeable it was extremely hot outside in the 90's close to 100 (well atleast thats really hot for me ) So any changes on what I should do then? And I think that I will invest in the pressure gauge then, or atleast getting this one fixed.

 

[ILLiCliPSE]

This morning and once a couple days ago, I started my car to go to work and noticed a ticking noise. I reved the engine a little, then a little more, then the noise went away. What could cause this? All I have to do to get rid of the sound is rev the engine. It sounded like lifter tick but a bit louder.

 

[GSTBlack95]

Usually its cause there isnt enough oil being circulated, my car does the same thing sometimes.