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Lifter Tick [merged] Revised lifters 3rd Gen Generation 3g

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95talontsi

20+ Year Contributor
275
0
Jun 29, 2002
Princeton, NJ_Montgomery
I am fixing my valve tix by taking out the lifters or the auto valve lash adjusters. I have the valves cover off, the engine is at top dead center and I am on 3# cylinder. I got instructions off the net, now with either a tool or a standard screw driver press down on the valve and remove the rocker arm then remove the lifter. Which then I will clean out.
The question is where do I push down, The valve has the spring around is and the metal cap on top of that( forget the name of that) where do I push down with out damaging anything, I will probably have to push a bit so I do not want to damage anything. please help?
 
After being given the run around for 6 weeks from the dealership that I bought my car at, I've been informed that it is going to take more that a full days work to replace my lifters.

I’m just sick of waiting on them to get their act together:

Week)
1) Forgot to order them
2) Didn’t come in
3) Still didn't come in
4) Wants to do it on a day where their hours are longer, so wait till following Monday
5) Didn’t look at parts, turns out only got 12 of 16 lifters
6) Today, said they could do it in a single day, they need it till Tuesday it went in at 9am and the shop closes at 8pm (should it take more than 10 hours to replace them?)

How long did it take you to replace your lifters?

How long should it take to replace them if an ASE mechanic were to replace them?

Or

How much time does Mits. allot their mechanics to replace the lifters?
(Anyone with access to a shop manual should have this one covered)​


(Edit: For spelling errors)
 
I installed lifters before. The first time I ever did it it took like an hour. That was removing/replacing and being nervous/ careful (I labeled a bag with the parts to make sure I put the rockers back in the same spots :p . It's real easy. It would be quicker now that it's routine work and not something foreign to myself.
 
you have to pull the timing belt which is a job all in itself, especially on a fully stock engine bay.

leaving everything on TDC then you have the pull the valve cover.


pulling the cams involves an even process.. especially when putting them back on, you need to keep it all even, slowly tightening down side by side...

if you have no experience i wouldnt attempt it. it shouldnt take someone anymore than a day to do such a job. i would give them two.
 
they should take a couple hours for a rookie and an hour for a diamond certified. the flat rate book probably pays 3 hours. a lot of times like where i work they like to assume it will take a lot longer that way the customer is not waiting and getting mad, but thats maybe a half day, shouldent be a whole day.
 
It's not a hard job to do. Just make sure to rotate the crank pully clockwise to get the cam lobes on the cyl you working on to "release" the cam followers. Another tip is stuffing shop towels down in the galley to "catch" the followers as you pop them off / reinstall. They always land in the most hard to reach places :cry:
 
DSM90AWD said:
It's not a hard job to do. Just make sure to rotate the crank pully clockwise to get the cam lobes on the cyl you working on to "release" the cam followers. Another tip is stuffing shop towels down in the galley to "catch" the followers as you pop them off / reinstall. They always land in the most hard to reach places :cry:

ditto.
NO NEED to remove anything besides the Valve cover. I was a rookie when i did mine, and like I said, it took an hour or so. Remove Valve Cover, pop off acessible rocker arms, remove lifters, rotate engine, and remove the rest. Cake!
Easier to do then it was for me to revmove my 14 year old stock exhaust system ROFL
 
Yeah, I've read Vfaq and talked to some people about it, they all said it shouldn't take too long, but they were never specific about the time it took. When the dealership called and told me my car wouldn't be done till tomorrow, I was stunned that a few people i knew could do it in a couple hours and this place couldn't.


Thanks for the help guys, just got off the phone with them again.

They said, "the mechanic was starting to put it back together, it would be finished tonight. They appologized for making the mistake of telling me It wouldn't be done tonight"
 
maybe they did take your timing belt off/pull the cams out. That would cause it to take longer, maybe not a full day, but longer in general.

Iv only ever done them with the cams out, going to try it for the first time on my 2g this weekend without taking the cams out. Hopefully all goes well. :cool:
 
I have never heard lifter tick before and i tried searching but couldn't find much. It is definitely a ticking and not a knocking. Can't hear it when i first start my car, but after it warms up it ticks from idle up to 3,000 rpm's. I can't hear anything after that. The tick isn't that loud, but it's not quiet. I'm going to try to clean the lifters for now, i just ordered some new valve cover gaskets, just to be safe. I was also reading something that it could be the balance shaft. I'll report back after i clean the lifters. Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks
 
i was hearing that same noise you are talking about. i used some engine restore when i changed my oil and the it the noise stop. i know its not a permenant fix but until you can replace them it worked well, just thought i would let you know.
 
Lifter tick is all too common on our cars, as well as many others. when you have a car thats 15 years old, with 1xx,xxx miles on it you kinda have to expect it. I dont know if you've found this already, but the only real solution to the problem is a set of lifters from a 3rd generation eclipse, available at any mitsu dealer,dsm specialty shop, and probably ebay and such. The new design of these lifters eliminates the tick. BUT if you can't afford new ones, or just dont feel the need to change them(i know i dont) try some engine restore like afi5585 said, or use LUCAS oil stabalizer or any other such product, its defenently only a band-aid, and might not even help at all, but ita worth a shot. Also ticking valves aren't really going to hurt anything so dont panic, it's just annoying.
 
when i use Mobil 1 10/30 or 5/30 i have lifter tick at startup for a few minutes....but when i use non synthetic oil it goes away....whats the cause? should i try mixing different oils? if so which ones work the best?
 
If the problem goes away with non synthetic oil, then why would you want to try anything else?

I've been trying to find an oil that will get rid of my lifter tick, the crap I have in there now is some synthetic blend. Still ticking away even when I'm up to temperature. Not just at idle either, it never goes away.


What brand of oil stopped your ticking?

I'm not an oil expert, not all oils are created equal.
 
i always run with Mobil 1 10/30 synthetic....but i had a line to my turbo break and the mechanics did an oil change with out asking what kind of oil i wanted so they just put in non-synthetic....i have no idea the brand or the weight....also another talon that i was considering buying had No lifter tick at all and the guy had been using non-synthetic since the car was new...I'm just curious as to why these cars don't tick with regular oil but do with synthetic? does it have something to do with the viscosity of the oil? because i was under the impression that 10/30 non synthetic would be the same as 10/30 synthetic...no?...the reason i switched back to synthetic afterwards is because I'm under the impression that synthetic oils don't break down as fast, are better at higher temps...etc etc...which in turn makes the engine last longer.
 
bnpimpn said:
i always run with Mobil 1 10/30 synthetic....but i had a line to my turbo break and the mechanics did an oil change with out asking what kind of oil i wanted so they just put in non-synthetic....i have no idea the brand or the weight....also another talon that i was considering buying had No lifter tick at all and the guy had been using non-synthetic since the car was new...I'm just curious as to why these cars don't tick with regular oil but do with synthetic? does it have something to do with the viscosity of the oil? because i was under the impression that 10/30 non synthetic would be the same as 10/30 synthetic...no?...the reason i switched back to synthetic afterwards is because I'm under the impression that synthetic oils don't break down as fast, are better at higher temps...etc etc...which in turn makes the engine last longer.

I run amsoil in my 2g, and thats all I ran in my 1g, don't have any problems with ticking. It's pure synthetic, oil changes are expensive, but it's well worth it. Plus you can go a bit longer between changes too.
 
I use Quaker State 10W-30 on an engine w/ 107k, and I have no tick whatsoever. Oh wait, I installed no tick lifters!

But seriously, try an oil adder, I here they work wonders.
 
I used to have mad crazy lifter tick, but i picked up a set of JAM non ticking lifters and all the lifter tick is gone. If you don't want to replace your lifters usually like somebody already said a thicker oil should help out.
 
We've really done the Oil Tango a lot of times.

The result: it don't matter. Use whatever you believe is best. If I found one sort reduced lifter noise (or, any other symptom) better than another, I'd consider that being the engine telling me which one works best in it.

I don't know if you can find "bad" oil anymore.
 
I guess slight lifter tick is common on the 4g63 motor at startup ? I had my head rebulit a few months ago and get ticking at startup. I used lucas oil stabalizer in my previous 95 gs-t and this helped. I have also read and it worked for me to reduce lifter ticking by using the OEM oil filter :dsm:
 
Hey on my spyder i have the same problem when i start up in the mornings and then the rest to the day i have no problem but can some one with a 2.4 sypder let me know wassup what i need to do a thinner oil or an oem oil filter thankx DSM
 
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