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Lets talk Ebay FMIC. Especially if you have one.

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chicagoavenger

15+ Year Contributor
981
13
Aug 17, 2004
Rio rancho, New Mexico
I have read a couple of threads on ebay intercoolers but just wondering which ones out there that are actually good? Allot of them have something that goes like this

"Good for up to 500bhp(I have seen from 350-600). all our intercooler has been tested to withstand more then 80psi pressure and it has very small pressure drop across the end tanks, at 15psi inlet the out let has 14.8psi that means it has only 0.2 psi pressure drop ,compare to many other intercoolers it is an excellent figure (some intercooler has 1-2psi pressure drop) also at the same condition, the temperature has drop from 120 degree to 28 degree ( and it is an excellent figure for efficiency"

Is the above statement just a bunch of bs or true? Has anyone tried the Megan racing FMIC? I think it's crazy to spend 700+ on a core and piping. I really don't care about name brands I just want it to work. Kinda like a Dave Brode part or Megan Racing or Johnny Racecar FMIC all cheap but effective with great quality. Here are just a couple of FMIC I'm talking about that look good but do they perform and will they last? Please chime in if you have a ebay FMIC or had one especially if it worked or did not work well for you. thanks

Megan FMIC

No name brand but has the standard psi and efficiency spill

Street Imports FMIC

XOXO Core but has good feedback on the core
 
GSTeclipse said:
Thats why I asked for dyno number's with this FMIC kit because I do not belive DSM link is correct on HP number , it's like trying to belive G-Tech :nono:
DSMLink has been proven to provide a fairly good estimate of your horsepower. Many have gone to the dyno to find that DSMLink was only off by 5 horsepower. Dynoing a car on two different dynos might yield completely different results as well (cough, Mustang and Dynapack, cough). Basically, it's all subjective.

I would use track times to judge performance. More of a "real world" test than the rollers. :thumb:

edit: quote from DSMLink manual:
Martin implemented the horsepower and torque calculators included with DSMLink. These routines were derived from work done by John P. and Anil R. on a standalone excel spreadsheet type of thing. Martin took those calculations and ported them into DSMLink. Many thanks go to Martin for this work. The routines are surprisingly accurate and provide a very useful feature in DSMLink.

Just to add to the real world results many DSMLink users have already found.
 
I just finished installing my 14b and SSautochrome fmic. What a bi***! Took me 21 hours. First time swapping a turbo & taking off my bumper. That FMIC does NOT like the 2ga bumper!!!. I could probably do it in a day now that I know what to keep and what to break... :)

Here's some full frontal nudity.. I opted out of cutting the bumper to show more of the FMIC. I think it would just looked cheesy. Especially with just a 14b.

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Tx97GSX said:
turbo98eclipse, I guess you want to have a setup like mine. Don't mind the 2g MAS that is still there, I still need to find a filter that will fit the FP Intake.


LOL yes i do...## my idol LOL...the thing is..i have the 3piece blowthru setup piping laying around here...is it possible for me to use what i have now and just cut the uicp that comes with the kit?
 
scottsee said:
I just finished installing my 14b and SSautochrome fmic. What a bi***! Took me 21 hours. First time swaping a turbo & taking off my bumper. That thing does NOT like the 2ga bumper!!!. I could probably do it in a day now that I know what to keep and what to break... :)

Here's some full frontal nudity..

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looks beautiful :thumb:
 

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Hey guys I posted a while back asking about a new recirculation hose for the bov. I had a crimped radiatior hose on in place of the stocker, but it was a POS. Well, after 2 hours of work and 2 trips to the store, I have the solution to your bov tube if it is crimped, or you are venting it with this kit.

Total cost of project : $12.35 (might be less if you already have some parts)

Alright, the parts/tools you need are as follows:
- 2 feet of vacuum hose
- 6 1.75" hose clamps
- A long enough piece of rubber hosing, maybe atleast a foot, to use as couplers. (I used a radiator pipe and cut it).
- 1 "P Trap" tubing kit with 1.25" inlet/outlet. (Got this in plumbing section of Lowes home improvement store)
- The normal wrenches/sockets you would need to install a bov
- Hacksaw/cutting tool
- Sander/metal file

I'm sorry I didn't take step by step pictures during installation cause I forgot my camera, but I think the pictures explain this very well. I am also just trying to remember from memory, so take precise measurements when cutting.

First, you will need to remove the bov from the flange on the IC pipe. Turn the bov around so that the outlet port is facing the windshield. Now, remove the old vac hose for the bov, and replace it with the longer piece you have and cut it to the proper length needed. Bolt the bov back down to the flange on the IC pipe.

Next, cut the smaller pipe in the "P Trap" pipe kit so that you get a 180 degree bend out of it. This piece will be going on the outlet port of the bov. Next, cut the rubber hose you have to use as a coupler. Each cut should be approx. 3" long. Then, cut the longer of the "P Trap" pipe about maybe 1.25" off of the side without the flange on it.

Connect all of the pipes together with the rubber hose couplers and secure them with the hose clamps, and you are basicly done! Just make sure to check for leaks and if everything is tight. Pictures are below:

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I think the end result came out VERY nice. It has no leaks, looks great, and it idles/drives perfect, plus the bov whistle is very quite during normal driving, but like 10x louder under boost now LOL.

Anyone have any questions?
 
I should send you some cali gas, and then will see how much power you will make LOL
in Cali, it's not only low octane rating of 91, it has so many shitty additives, that your mid-grade is probably better.

GSTeclipse said:
May have been somthing I over looked :shhh:

What page was this on ?


300hp ? are you sure you belive what DSM link tells you as far as hp goes?
No trying to bash or be an ass but with your mods you should be well over 300whp

Hell almost 2 years ago I did 330whp @ 20psi on 93 pump gas on a Completely Stock 7 bolt motor in my 97 GST and I was only able to make 1 pull on the dyno with NO TUNNING and then a boost leak poped up and ended the day
This was the mod list I had
AGP RS49 (50 trim) @ 20psi
RNR 3 inch 02 eliminator down pipe w/Atmosphere dump
Thermal 3" cat back
PTE 680cc injectors
Walboro 255 FP
AFC 1 for fuel control
Custom RRE (Griffen FMIC) 20x10x3 with custom pipes
Dejon tool 3 inch intake
Bushur Upper piping
ACT 2600 and Fadanza POS flywheel
95 Eprom ECU socketed with TMO stage 3 chip

Thats why I asked for dyno number's with this FMIC kit because I do not belive DSM link is correct on HP number , it's like trying to belive G-Tech :nono:
 
HighPsi98GSX said:
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Anyone have any questions?


Wow, that looks amazing. My question is - can you make a radiator pipe using the same methods? Or does anyone not think that would be worth while? I'm also interesting in roadracing my car this summer - does anyone know if a hard pipe would effect my performance at all?
 
sp00ln said:
can you make a radiator pipe using the same methods? Or does anyone not think that would be worth while? I'm also interesting in roadracing my car this summer - does anyone know if a hard pipe would effect my performance at all?


I am actually making a polished upper radiator pipe to replace the hose for my car as soon as the radiator goes back in... Although, I have a mandrel bender so....
 
sp00ln said:
Wow, that looks amazing. My question is - can you make a radiator pipe using the same methods? Or does anyone not think that would be worth while? I'm also interesting in roadracing my car this summer - does anyone know if a hard pipe would effect my performance at all?


what would be the effect of you having hard radiator piping?
 
GSTeclipse said:
May have been somthing I over looked :shhh:

What page was this on ?


300hp ? are you sure you belive what DSM link tells you as far as hp goes?
No trying to bash or be an ass but with your mods you should be well over 300whp

Hell almost 2 years ago I did 330whp @ 20psi on 93 pump gas on a Completely Stock 7 bolt motor in my 97 GST and I was only able to make 1 pull on the dyno with NO TUNNING and then a boost leak poped up and ended the day
This was the mod list I had
AGP RS49 (50 trim) @ 20psi
RNR 3 inch 02 eliminator down pipe w/Atmosphere dump
Thermal 3" cat back
PTE 680cc injectors
Walboro 255 FP
AFC 1 for fuel control
Custom RRE (Griffen FMIC) 20x10x3 with custom pipes
Dejon tool 3 inch intake
Bushur Upper piping
ACT 2600 and Fadanza POS flywheel
95 Eprom ECU socketed with TMO stage 3 chip

Thats why I asked for dyno number's with this FMIC kit because I do not belive DSM link is correct on HP number , it's like trying to belive G-Tech :nono:


Whoa, the thread is still alive and going. haha, well here is the link for the write up.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219119

I have a GT30R on a STOCK 7bolt motor with 113xxx miles on a Mustang dyno. Super accurate hehe

Edit: I dyno @ 25psi and never knocked.
 
GreddyGst said:
Whoa, the thread is still alive and going. haha, well here is the link for the write up.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219119

I have a GT30R on a STOCK 7bolt motor with 113xxx miles on a Mustang dyno. Super accurate hehe

Edit: I dyno @ 25psi and never knocked.

Your running a much larger turbo than I am,but Im running 23-24psi on my evo316g and I also have zero knock.I thought maybe I had a big boost leak but I dont.This innercooler works very well and am very happy with it.When I had the stock ic I would knock on my 14b at 20psi.
 
sp00ln said:
Wow, that looks amazing. My question is - can you make a radiator pipe using the same methods? Or does anyone not think that would be worth while? I'm also interesting in roadracing my car this summer - does anyone know if a hard pipe would effect my performance at all?


What Radiator pipe do you want like that or close to it ? Top or Bottom ?

If you want a 2g Top 1 go to http://www.alienauto.com/

Click on coolant pipes and then DSM buying theirs your going to drop $120 ROFL
 
Maybe i'll make one within the next few days? I'll polish it too and see how it goes.. I have a 2g too but I have a 6bolt swap so I think it would be a bit diff if I made one for you? I woulden't need all those ugly welding spots because like I previously stated, I have a mandrel bender =)

On another note, Here are some more pics of this FMIC install so the thread don't go too far off topic:)
 
1993eclipseGS said:
Maybe i'll make one within the next few days? I'll polish it too and see how it goes.. I have a 2g too but I have a 6bolt swap so I think it would be a bit diff if I made one for you? I woulden't need all those ugly welding spots because like I previously stated, I have a mandrel bender =)

On another note, Here are some more pics of this FMIC install so the thread don't go too far off topic:)

That last pic of your engine looks like it's collapsing/caving in OMG
 
MaNGiNa24 said:
That last pic of your engine looks like it's collapsing/caving in OMG

I took the picture right after I put the front end back together to get the tires on so I can roll the car backwards. I have a jack under the motor now but when I first let the car down on all the tires, There was only one motor mount holding the motor in.
 
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