LC-1 now LC-2

[hulsak]

Ok I am confused. I recently ordered the LC-1 WB from amazon and they sent me the LC-2. So I went back and looked on Innovate Motorsports' website and it says it has been replaced by the LC-2. Now my question is has anyone used this and does it hook up the same way or do I need to try and find the LC-1? I have searched endlessly on here as well as the big G but to no avail. any help would be appreciative. Thank you for your time.

 

[AngelOfPassion]

I haven't seen the lc-2 but I am sure you could look at some pictures of the connections/product descriptions and see if they are the same.

Even if they made a few changes it should be relatively easy to install. I installed my mtx-l with no prior electrical knowledge and just a few questions that I posted on here.

 

[snowborder714]

Looks like the LC-2 is more similar installation wise to the MTX-L than the LC-1. The LC-2 uses four wires - red (12v power), black (ground), yellow (analog 1 - factory wideband 0-5v signal), and brown (analog 2 - factory narrowband 1.1-.1v signal).

 

[4g63t]

I get sick of free air calibrations on the lc-1 so :The LC-2's self-calibrating circuitry" would kick some butt!
I just read through here. Looks like i will be replacing my aem wb on my evo with this now!
LC-2 Wideband O2 Digital Air/fuel Ratio Controller

 

[hulsak]

Actually it has 8 wires. Black red Brown white coming from the Guage harness and black red yellow Brown from the box with the led in it. The sensor plugs into the box where it has two analog plugs and then a cable to the Guage. I'm going to play with it tomorrow and see what I can do. Strangely the manual says nothing about what the white wire goes to or does. I assume it's a ground like the lc1?

 

[snowborder714]

White wires coming from a gauge harness are typically illumination.

 

[black97spyder]

Since you guys are on the lc-1 topic, i have a question.

how do I set up my lc-1 to read the proper A/F ratios in dsmlink? I already have it logged through dsmlink but never changed the inital setting for the yellow wire that goes to my rear o2 pin, so it doesnt read the same as my wideband.... I know I have to go into my LM-programmer program to change it but dont know what I need to change or how to change it.

thanks!

 

[snowborder714]

Well, the yellow wire on an LC-1 is the factory narrowband, so not surprised it's not reading right. Check out this thread - it should have the info you need.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...21002-innovate-lc-1-installation-options.html

 

[black97spyder]

Yeah I've read that before. The brown wire is hooked up to my gauge like the lc-1 instructions say, and the yellow wire is the one I have going to my rear o2 pin.

So what value (analog output 1 or 2) do I need to change to the 0-5v?

Is there anything i will I have to do in dsmlink or will it change my LC-1 reading that I am already logging as soon as I change the analog output?

 

[snowborder714]

Yeah I've read that before.

So what value (analog output 1 or 2) do I need to change to the 0-5v?

You sure? I specifically call out the analog info in that link.

 

[black97spyder]

Yes I've read it several times. It says to make analog output 1 value to match analog output 2 value. Im just wanting to know which color wire is which analog out? If I was at home I could just look at my LC-1 manual but im at work.

and as for the LM programmer I dont know if I have the right version or not. I know the newer versions dont work properly and I just bought the sensor 2 months ago

Where/how do i attach the cable that I connect to my serial out port to on my lc-1 to my computer?? It has the stereo end to plug into the lc-1 controller but the opposite end that is suppost to connect to my computer has a female end on it so there is no way for it to attach to my laptop or my dads laptop. (Needs a male end that connects to the computer instead of the female end that is on it)

 

[MY1GDSM]

Looks like i will be replacing my aem wb on my evo with this now!

Shoot me a Email when you get that in, I'm sure that I can get that dialed in a bit more with the better Wideband and faster update rates

how do I set up my lc-1 to read the proper A/F ratios in dsmlink?

This was a bit earlier today...

Think I got you the info, if not hit me back up and we can get it taken care of

 

[yayabago]

what is the best wideband to be used with dsmlink? Do they have an LC-2?

 

[boost97gst]

what is the best wideband to be used with dsmlink? Do they have an LC-2?

I think its obvious: LC2 requires no calibration. Thats enough to completely kill off the lc1. They removed the one big drawback of the lc1.

 

[snowborder714]

Yes I've read it several times. It says to make analog output 1 value to match analog output 2 value. Im just wanting to know which color wire is which analog out? If I was at home I could just look at my LC-1 manual but im at work.

To make this easier and reduce my chance of getting a headache, here's the info:

Analog 1 is the yellow wire.
Analog 2 is the brown wire.

If you noticed the notes under the yellow wire on the link for the install, you'd see it says the following:

*Must reprogram Analog Out 1 values to match Analog Out 2

and as for the LM programmer I dont know if I have the right version or not. I know the newer versions dont work properly and I just bought the sensor 2 months ago

You can tell if you have the right version if it saves your changes. If not, check out the link to the ECMlink wiki page I reference in the install tutorial.

Where/how do i attach the cable that I connect to my serial out port to on my lc-1 to my computer?? It has the stereo end to plug into the lc-1 controller but the opposite end that is suppost to connect to my computer has a female end on it so there is no way for it to attach to my laptop or my dads laptop. (Needs a male end that connects to the computer instead of the female end that is on it)

Here's the manual. It shows you how to connect.
http://innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-2_Manual.pdf

 

[turbosax2]

By the way, the manual still has the same or similar calibration schedule as the LC-1. But now you always have to disconnect the sensor for calibration rather than getting a switch.

 

[boost97gst]

^^^^ There is an easier way to do that. Just T off the stock WB analog output. One to gauge, one to ecu. After fighting lmconfig i finally tried it and it works way better. Unless you dont have the ability to sim NB in the ecu, theres no reason to use both analog outs and hassle with programming.


edit: This guy must not have link, otherwise you wouldnt be explaining it like that. My bad

 

[snowborder714]

It shows he does, but I was just answering his questions.

There is another thread around here where I suggested just splitting the wideband wire to the gauge and ECU so you don't have to reprogram the narrowband one. Maybe he didn't search

 

[snowborder714]

Not sure why you fixed that to show wrong info

Here's the info directly from the LC-2 manual:

Optionally, the YELLOW (Analog out 1) and/or BROWN (Analog out 2) can be connected to the analog inputs of other devices such as data loggers, aftermarket programmable ECUs, or AFR display gauges. If either one or both of these wires are not being used, isolate and tape the wire(s) in an out of the way location. Each of the two analog output wires can connect to one device that can accept this 0-5v potential output.

The default analog outputs are as follows: Analog output one (yellow) is 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39 AFR. Analog output two (brown) is 1.1V = 14 AFR and .1V = 15 AFR. Note: The LC-2's ground should share the same grounding source as the device to which you are feeding the analog outputs, the easiest wait to accomplish this is to run an aux ground wire from the ground point of the LC-2 to the ground or signal ground of the device you are interfacing with.

 

[black97spyder]

^^^^ There is an easier way to do that. Just T off the stock WB analog output. One to gauge, one to ecu. After fighting lmconfig i finally tried it and it works way better. Unless you dont have the ability to sim NB in the ecu, theres no reason to use both analog outs and hassle with programming.


edit: This guy must not have link, otherwise you wouldnt be explaining it like that. My bad

Sorry snowboarder, i must not have read that part carefully enough

yeah I think I got it figured out my1gdsm, I will just T off the analog output 2 (brown wire) and run it to the ecu so I dont have to reprogram anything and it will read like u will need it to.

Yeah I have link v3... i just did not know how to word what I was trying to ask, sorry. I thought I could probably just T off of the stock WB output and run it to the ecu instead of the yellow wire to the ecu. I called innovate and they said I could T off it but it could cause problems (dont see why)... so I think I will just un-solder the yellow analog output wire and T off of the stock brown WB analog output like boosted97gst did

thanks for the help guys!

Sorry if my questions seemed dumb.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Not sure why you fixed that to show wrong info

Here's the info directly from the LC-2 manual:

sorry was thinking lc-1. Oops.

 

[MY1GDSM]

I'll talk to you tomorrow about it Matt, But Don't Tee it off there if you have it that way now... (Sorry Don't recall if you reprogrammed it)

I've said this many times to people. But, it seems people still keep saying to just do it the wrong way...

 

[boost97gst]

So, my1g, T ing off the wb signal is bad? Is it loading the lc1 or something? Thats the only possible conclusion. When grounded properly and powered properly my afrs match 100% on link/db gauge.
Guess a bunch of us did it wrong.

Yea thats gotta be the reasoning: current draw on only 1 wire is too great and causes inaccurate readings.
I must be lucky, mine are dead on. Please explain if its convenient for you.

Thanks

 

[hulsak]

Ok guys just to give you an update. I installed the lc-2 yesterday with a db guage. Ran the yellow wire to the guage and the brown to the ecu pin 4. I do not have any tuning software but I log. Also put the wb in the original bung and it works beautifully. You do still have to open air calibrate but is sooo easy its ridiculous other wires are very straight forward. Hope this helps.

 

[boost97gst]

I really like the option to get the longer cables. The lc2 unit itself looks way smaller too. Would fit nicely on the PCM or back in that area and still be able to hide the wires and route the through the bay well.
Im sold. when i get my build going, that is.