knock sensor, keydiver chip, can't log... advice :)

[Breezio69]

Hey guys,
Like the title states, I have a keydiver chip, also have a safc to tweak on top of that. About a month ago my car has been showing knock at anything above 2500 rpms... phantom knock. It retard my timing and can feel it doing so. I cannot, repeat cannot, get a logger to recognize the car (evoscan 2.5, which was recommended for 95-96 eprom years)

Back on topic, last week I decided to drop a hefty coin on running around 97 octane to see if it was detonation or not. 6 gallons 100 octane, 4 gallons 91 = about a $70 tank fill, yay.

Fast forward to today, I look behind the block and see the knock sensor, or what I believe is the knock sensor since no wires were running to it. I will supply a picture.

Either way, here are my questions for the finding.
Is that the knock sensor?
Is the fact the back looks broken off throwing me in limp mode?
Has anyone successfully logged with a keydiver?

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[Breezio69]

I was also wondering, if this is my knock sensor and the back is broken off then how would it be reading knock? Would it default to show knock as it retards the timing?

I would like to at least get an answer of what I'm looking at. I can't make it over to my dads place to look at it from underneath with jackstands for a couple days. What you see in the picture is more than what I can see with my eyes from the top, I was able to kind of shove my hand and phone down there for the pic. I also can't see any wires or the other half of the sensor dangling anywhere from the top.

Any help?

 

[synthetek]

Yes, That is what's left of your knock sensor

 

[Breezio69]

Is there any reason this wouldn't be throwing a cel?

 

[Macspsi]

You need another knock sensor.

 

[My1GLaser]

When the ECU doesn't receive a signal from the knock sensor on a 1g, it pulls 3.2* of timing across the board. I have no idea why you wouldn't have a CEL!

 

[Breezio69]

Alright guys, after a while I've finally become motivated to get this stuff taken care of. I had the car down for a couple weeks just getting motivated to replace the clutch master. While I was under it I got some pictures of some of the things that were definately half assed and I'd like the best advice for what I can do to either fix or eliminate them...

Also, I would like to know where, in the factory engine harness, the knock wire is supposed to come out. I know its supposed to plug in by the cas. But where in the harness will I find it popping out.

Here are some random wires/vac connectors that have just been hanging around, what are they, what can I do with them.

I also figured out last night, while checking for clutch drag, that my keydiver was set up with a two step launch at 4k. I'm wondering if the knock sensor circuit was removed when they programmed it?

I have zero cel's from any of this being disconnected.

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Any help is awesome still trying to figure out why all things knock sensor related are gone

 

[AWD Sebring]

you can pretty much throw away everything you shown a picture of besides the 1st picture that was the nox sensor with no wires coming from it. Also your going to need the rectangular silver box with all the wires running from it, in the last picture thats for your injectors.. It looks like a simssmortion under that hood.

 

[Breezio69]

So that is in fact my knock sensor wiring? I had a feeling it was, I couldn't see it from the top, it was tucked under the throttle body in a mix of other wire looms. So I can find a socket and wire it up, then buy the appropriate knock sensor.

I still wonder why its "ripped out" and why its not throwing a cel?

And the rest of it I can just follow the wiring back to the fuse box and cut it out? I know it had a half ass emissions delete, because the charcoal can and whatever else is still under the battery not hooled up, is the rest of that stuff related to that?

Thanks for the help

Edit: and I know that's the resistor for the injectors, I was just curious about all the other crap just literally hangin around in there.

 

[Breezio69]

you can pretty much throw away everything you shown a picture of besides the 1st picture that was the nox sensor with no wires coming from it. Also your going to need the rectangular silver box with all the wires running from it, in the last picture thats for your injectors.. It looks like a simssmortion under that hood.

Two things with this post.

I'm glad I didn't cut away all the sensors that are plugged in but have no vac lines. Since being a 2g cutting them out would have caused me some problems. (Sifted through many dsm vac deletes, thank you all who shared your wisdom)

But

I'm sooooo glad you helped me out with the knock sensor wires just randomly laying in my bay. This whole thing started because I knew I was getting pk with a broken sensor and no wiring. I just so happened to pull the harness up a little under the IM and found those two. I got a sensor and wired it up temporarily to the two leads in the picture and it fixed EVERYTHING! Thank you so much. The power comes on smooth and doesn't fall off anymore (pulling timing) and I have zero knock with my tune and it is FINALLY logging the 16* timing at wot to redline!!!! I feel like I have a whole new car.

Thank you again AWD sebring, I would have taped those wires off, along with a bunch of others unhooked in my bay (horns, alarms and fog lights )

Thanks tuners..... SOLVED, (and drunk on full boost and whiskey! Not at the same time of course)

 

[motomattx]

The 2g uses a piezoelectric sensor, this style of sensor is a passive type sensor, the ecu will not log a code for it being unplugged. The reaon that you were seeing phantom knock was likely because of the bare wires from the sensor grounding out on the bare metal somewhere in your engine bay.

 

[Breezio69]

If you look at the first picture in my first post, it shows the sensor with zero wires. If you look in the first pic of my second set of pictures, its the wiring awd sebring pointed out, it was warpped to the harness under the intake manifold. Whoever pulled the connector and the wiring did it for a reason, it was taped up under another section of harness. I understand how the sensor works and that's why at the beginning of the thread I asked where I would find it popping out from the harness because i thought it was all gone.... after no answer and posting my own findings I finally got clarification.

I also researched on my own, that a disconnected knock sensor (not still wired and mounted to the firewall or somewhere else) will pick up knock and cut timing like crazy. I could physically feel the car pull then cut out and just "make" it to redline, it also felt a little bit jittery when going on and off throttle. This is all gone now. It pulls hard and smooth all the way through.

When I bought the car I believe it was "detuned". The kid before me wasn't happy with it and I had a feeling something was up when I bought it. It was running a keydiver chip for 660's, wally 255, fuel pressure was dropped to 34 psi, a (self welded) bung in the downpipe was bolted off, it was running wastegate pressure on a b16g, has ALL supporting mods for decent power... I think, in all honesty, after a while of really deciphering problems with the car, I unlocked its original potential it was built for.... cheesy? Maybe? But I believe it, and I can tell a large difference. I think the guy sold it as "stock", because that's what I was told when I bought it even though I had an intuition it wasn't true.

 

[Phantom DSM]

Two things with this post.

I'm glad I didn't cut away all the sensors that are plugged in but have no vac lines. Since being a 2g cutting them out would have caused me some problems. (Sifted through many dsm vac deletes, thank you all who shared your wisdom)

But

I'm sooooo glad you helped me out with the knock sensor wires just randomly laying in my bay. This whole thing started because I knew I was getting pk with a broken sensor and no wiring. I just so happened to pull the harness up a little under the IM and found those two. I got a sensor and wired it up temporarily to the two leads in the picture and it fixed EVERYTHING! Thank you so much. The power comes on smooth and doesn't fall off anymore (pulling timing) and I have zero knock with my tune and it is FINALLY logging the 16* timing at wot to redline!!!! I feel like I have a whole new car.

Thank you again AWD sebring, I would have taped those wires off, along with a bunch of others unhooked in my bay (horns, alarms and fog lights )

Thanks tuners..... SOLVED, (and drunk on full boost and whiskey! Not at the same time of course)

Glad to hear you got it sorted i dont recall seeing this thread recently.
A member the other day posted a thread i replied in, looking for the female connector from the wiring harness for the knock sensor. He was having same issue as you. If you would like to fix it more securely, i found the connector on Jnztuning, you can crimp it on with pigtail to fix the harness instead of bare wires. Ill post link of that thread below. Hope that helps as well.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/electrical-tech/474772-knock-sensor-housing-wireing-harness.html

 

[Breezio69]

Glad to hear you got it sorted i dont recall seeing this thread recently.
A member the other day posted a thread i replied in, looking for the female connector from the wiring harness for the knock sensor. He was having same issue as you. If you would like to fix it more securely, i found the connector on Jnztuning, you can crimp it on with pigtail to fix the harness instead of bare wires. Ill post link of that thread below. Hope that helps as well.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/electrical-tech/474772-knock-sensor-housing-wireing-harness.html

This is a huge help! I actually posted a wtb ad for the harness side of the connector probably two hours ago after I found out it solved my problems! Thank you as well, one will be on the way in a few minutes!!!

 

[Phantom DSM]

This is a huge help! I actually posted a wtb ad for the harness side of the connector probably two hours ago after I found out it solved my problems! Thank you as well, one will be on the way in a few minutes!!!

You got it bud ! I was able to find a bunch of connectors we can all use in case rats or trolls chew our connectors off
Connectors & Wiring : JNZ Tuning

 

[Breezio69]

I actually held off for the moment to see what I can find on my own or at a local dealer... $12 to ship a $10 piece of plastic the size of half your thumb seems crazy.

 

[Phantom DSM]

I actually held off for the moment to see what I can find on my own or at a local dealer... $12 to ship a $10 piece of plastic the size of half your thumb seems crazy.

Damn, thats a bit much. I used to wait to have a list of things i need to make it worth the shipping, upgrades get tempting...shipping fee sucks

 

[Breezio69]

I actually have a connector on the way from my wtb ad

 

[brads]

I actually held off for the moment to see what I can find on my own or at a local dealer...

You won't generally find those new at the dealer, the underhood connectors are a PITA to track down. Sounds like you already found a used pigtail to wire in though.

i found the connector on Jnztuning, you can crimp it on with pigtail to fix the harness instead of bare wires. Ill post link of that thread below. Hope that helps as well.[/url]

Go check the JNZ website. The option for the pigtail was removed, because it wasn't available. You can only get it as a connector, with terminals and seals, like I said.

NMWP 2P GY female Connector : JNZ Tuning

 

[Phantom DSM]

You won't generally find those new at the dealer, the underhood connectors are a PITA to track down. Sounds like you already found a used pigtail to wire in though.



Go check the JNZ website. The option for the pigtail was removed, because it wasn't available. You can only get it as a connector, with terminals and seals, like I said.

NMWP 2P GY female Connector : JNZ Tuning

Yea from the typo i made a few posts ago. It turns out the male connector has the pigtail option, but the female connector does not have the option. Good catch. At least we have options