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Knock off Greddy Type S bov

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RiceKiller_TSi said:

I have that exact Dejon 1G adapter on my SSQV knockoff and it works great-- it's a really nice piece. Just for extra leak protection, I applied RTV around the inside edge between the adapter and BOV before I mounted the adapter to the intercooler piping. As I mentioned before, no leaks at up to 25 PSI.

Also, my BOV did come with a recirc adapter. I had it hooked up for a while, but I've since taken it off and am venting (shhh, don't tell anybody). But since I'm A/T it's not quite as bad since I don't have to let off between shifts. :cool:
 
I just bought the greddy type s knockoff it works just like the real thing. the real thing gets pricey.:talon: :talon: :talon: :talon: :talon: :talon: :talon: :talon:
 
UPDATE: I removed the adjustment screw and placed a flat rubber washer (Walmart plumbing aisle) over it and applied some thread sealant before tightening it back in. After doing this I pressure tested it to 25psi and it held flawlessly without even the slightest sign of leakage.
I decided not to recirculate after all because the sound has grown on me. Its really nice to come off the throttle after seeing boost and hear "PHEeeeerrrssshhh!!!!"

Best $60 bucks I've spent so far.
 
i just installed the knock off greddy type-s (loud version) off ebay and it is very loud with my stock piping holds boost very well so no complaints here...i also bought the 2.25" 6 inch long flange so there would be no restriction from weld beads all for like $80 so i would say go for the knock off the loud version if you want to hear it
 
Here are the pics I promised. It appears like this bov has a fairly solid rubber diaphram from what I can tell. I wouldn't get alot of oil in there just to be safe though, so use the filter thats included and if it breaks get another one. :D

I wanted to add more spring tension so I inverted the adjustment screw (I put the head of the bolt inside the bov) and put some thread sealant on it. This makes the bov hold a little better than it did under vacuum.
 

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PSI2HI said:
If everyone keeps buying these China made rip off's of all these products w/in the next few years all these major companies will be suffering, you'll see shops start disappearing and in the long run everyone will be stuck w/ junk China made rip off parts because they chose to save the $$ ans not support the people who have been providing the quality products for years. Personally im sick of seeing people sending items over to China to be directly copied w/ a far lesser quality. We received a news letter from Apex a little while ago about someone that copied their turbo timer to the exact replica w/ their logo and all and they had people sending them back to APex complaing features didn't work. They dug into the item and realized someone had copied it to a far less quality. I've seen first hand local people around here buying some of these products and had drastic failure which ended up costing them more $$ in the long. Seen China knock off headers fall apart and the turbo fall and melt wiring harness, i've seen China knock off turbo compressor housing break in half, seen China knock off TIAL wastegates spike and blow motors up, etc..

So all in all its up to everyone to make the call of wether or not they want to support the larger companies and shops who have built this industry to what it is or if they want to support the China made knock off market and kill the whole indusrty as a whole which i see happening w/in the next few years @ the rate its going.

I totally agree with everything you have posted here. Your statement will be true in so many other US markets. The quality of Chinese products totally sucks, thats my take anyway.:barf:
 
i think mark up on automovie products should and will go down if anything because of the knockoffs. so yes it might hurt their huge 400% margins but if they compensate by lowering their prices people will still pay probably 50% more for the real thing. but not 400% 300 bux for the same thing i can get for 50 ... why does it really cost hks MORE than the chineese companies. i bet it acutally costs them less cause THEY are the ones mass producing even more than the chineese companies.
 
What about the materials? Like the chrome pieces, the diaphram, and the spring. The metal has that thin chrome plated junk metal look like in those machines that you get rings and necklaces out of for a quarter. Is it just the pics? Is it actually solid aluminum or something? Please tell me it is. :D

And corwininadsm, the bottom nipple on the Type S bov has to be there to assist the valve (btw, it CANNOT be plugged or you bov will break).
 
Nayr747 said:
What about the materials? Like the chrome pieces, the diaphram, and the spring. The metal has that thin chrome plated junk metal look like in those machines that you get rings and necklaces out of for a quarter. Is it just the pics? Is it actually solid aluminum or something? Please tell me it is. :D

And corwininadsm, the bottom nipple on the Type S bov has to be there to assist the valve (btw, it CANNOT be plugged or you bov will break).

yah ive heard that but what if i hook it up to boost. that should be fine right?

if the spring ends up being too stiff i think i might try hooking the bottom nipple to an intercooler pipe boost spot. for better part throttle response
 
Its not actually a Greddy Type S BOV its a Greddy Type S BOV "style" therefore it might work and be good but its not that actual thing so u cant compare it to the real type s bov but some advice go w/ a Turbo XS H -RFL " REALLY ####EN LOUD" but be carful since most aftermarket bov's vent to the atmospher and w/o a translator or other type of tunning mod ## car might run like shit at idol ex. but have fun bov's r a nice touch to make ## car sound bad ass
 
bovs are not for sound, its just a fun bonus

and we know the type s "style" will work, just look throught the last 4 pages of information where we did compared it to the real type s

and yes corwininadsm you can hook up the lower nipple to boost for faster operation, most leave it open though
 
Nayr747 said:
What about the materials? Like the chrome pieces, the diaphram, and the spring. The metal has that thin chrome plated junk metal look like in those machines that you get rings and necklaces out of for a quarter. Is it just the pics? Is it actually solid aluminum or something? Please tell me it is. :D

I'm no metalurgist (sp?) but what I can tell you is that this is NOT aluminum like the real deal. Like you said it appears to be chrome plated metal. I have no idea what the overlay is on... bronze maybe? LOL It really doesn't matter to me if they used cheaper metal because it performs just as well as aluminum for all intended purposes which is to keep pressure in under boost and dump it at the first sign of pressure change.
The spring is strong, thats for sure. The only part this is questionable compared to the authentic HKS bov is "maybe" the diaphragm. Maybe somebody with an authenic SSQV can tell us about this part. Mine works fine though. I am going to go back to blow off config from recirc because now when it dumps it sounds all crunchy. LOL
 
RiceKiller_TSi said:
I am going to go back to blow off config from recirc because now when it dumps it sounds all crunchy. LOL
CRUNCHY!? ROFL Make sure you're not getting compressor surge.

Well damn, I really wanted it to be aluminum. I guess it might not affect anything, but for long term use it might. The thing I don't understand is you can make exactly the same part out of the exact same materials and sell if for less money than the real one and still make a nice profit. Don't get why no one is doing that. :confused:
 
I would say stick with the knockoff if you arent worried about everyone saying "oh cool you have a Greddy BOV" because most of the time greddy charges so much more just because the name Greddy is on the part, and most of the time it is not betteer quality. Sure there are some things that Greddy makes that are definately not matched by anything, but a lot of it is just taking a design, putting the greddy name on it, selling it for way more than everyone else.
 
Nayr747 said:
CRUNCHY!? ROFL Make sure you're not getting compressor surge.

It's not compressor surge, its just how it sounds without the triple fin insert installed. It sounds like 15 Pepsi cans being crushed simultaneously! LOL Don't get me wrong, it sounded really mean but I prefer the insert vented to atmo.

I've put the fin back in because I'm addicted to the ricer like whistle sound now. :)
 
Arent you the thread starter? That is the same bov you posted in your very first post but with fake carbon on the cap instead of the anodized color. That is the one I tested with. You have read through all the pages in your own post right?
 
DiamondStarM said:
Arent you the thread starter? That is the same bov you posted in your very first post but with fake carbon on the cap instead of the anodized color. That is the one I tested with. You have read through all the pages in your own post right?


LOL. They are even doing that with the HKS knockoffs.
 
I have a '97 GSX and went with the knock-off Type-S ($40 total with S&H from sgzimports on EBay and it came to my door in 3 business days). Also purchased a BOV adapter off EBay, (jdmagroup $23 total with S&H) since I am using the original BOV pipe. That pipe had been cut off behind the BOV and a new 2 1/2" pipe is used to the FMIC by the way. The two EBay pieces mounted together perfectly. I have had success so far with the knock-off compared to the original BOV. I started by taking the pipe off and capping both ends; another thread will describe how. Then used a foot-pump to pressurize the system. The original pissed air and did not hold hardly any pressure. I tore down the knock-off to inspect it before install and took out the inner spring. Studying from these threads I saw where someone lined up a hole in the inner plunger with the lower unused nipple for sound so I did the same and then installed it into the pipe. Anyhow, I replaced the original with the knockoff to test it and it held air pressure. Once I got it dialed in and reinstalled on the car, I can feel the turbo continue to push hard through the full range of RPM. Before it seemed to die off after 4500 RPM. So far, I am very pleased with the performance of this product.
I did see from another previous entry to this tread where the gasket deteriorated in time. I will keep an eye on mine but even if it does fail, that's easy enough to replace.
As for "buy real or knockoff", do what you think is best. If it performs for you, who cares what name is on it. As for my experience, I have gone with big-name pieces before and when they failed, they did not stand behind their product anyhow. Some companies will, some won't. It's the risk we all take.
 
i personally hope greddy and HKS sues the shit out of these companies n manages to put them under. It's cause of crappy knockoffs being made in china purchased here due to our personal greed, that is helping china to surpass us as the world's economic power (dont believe me? start reading the news).
 
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