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knock off/ greddy type s differences and adjustments

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Throwback23

10+ Year Contributor
222
7
Apr 28, 2012
Boring, Oregon
I know there are hundreds of threads about type s adjustment but I've got my own questions that have yet to be awnsered. What is the structural difference between my knockoff type s and my buddies greddy type s? Mine sounds completly different (cheeeew type sound, his sounds more like a whip) yet looks exactly the same inside and out. I did do the sigle spring and diy gm master cyl diaphram to start off because I knew it was bout to break but beyond that their about the same thing. It seems that if I adjust it tight enough to wistle it surges slighly at 20+psi but if I go softer it doesn't wistle. Don't get me wrong I don't mind not having the wistle, I just wonder how the greddy version accomplishes both. Also I had a crushed 1g before and once I put the type s in I went from 21psi to 25+....leak anyone LOL?
 
Thanks for the link, definatly interesting info. Still blows my mind how different the two sound for how similar they are, but hey you get what you pay for and its not about the sound (although I won't say I hate it) its about the function. That said thus far the knock off works great as far function is concerened. Anymore input on this topic is welcomed and appreciated!
 
The internal tolerances are most likely different. The diaphragm and how much boost you two are running will affect it too.
 
Could anyone help me out on this one, I've got a 1g throttle body and wanted to know if the lower port on the type s bov can be used with any of the ports on the tb (a1,a2,p). I know I can tap the charge pipe but I was looking for the easiest way possible, anyhow anyone who could tell me would be awsome to do so. Thanks!
 
Could anyone help me out on this one, I've got a 1g throttle body and wanted to know if the lower port on the type s bov can be used with any of the ports on the tb (a1,a2,p). I know I can tap the charge pipe but I was looking for the easiest way possible, anyhow anyone who could tell me would be awsome to do so. Thanks!

A bypass valve should function off of vacuum, this mean you should tap the intake manifold a vacuum source. It is not recommended that you tap the charged air system for a vacuum source for the bypass valve. Most recommend you have a dedicated source off the manifold.
 
I have a knock off with ngr diaphragm and compared the greddy everything appears to be the same, even tolerances. I used my throttle body port as my bottle boost source on the bov, I didnt notice a difference so i went back to how it was. I did the single spring mod and it is open at idle even if the adjustment screw is tight. so i may go back to the two springs. In all honesty it is exactly the same and i cant believe people spend 160 from ngr when you can buy a knock off for 25 and the diaphragm for 40.
 
A bypass valve should function off of vacuum, this mean you should tap the intake manifold a vacuum source. It is not recommended that you tap the charged air system for a vacuum source for the bypass valve. Most recommend you have a dedicated source off the manifold.

Are we talking about the same thing? I have the top of the bov tapped to the mani, that's no issue...I'm talking about the second small valve which I've read you tap a chargepipe for.
 
A bypass valve should function off of vacuum, this mean you should tap the intake manifold a vacuum source. It is not recommended that you tap the charged air system for a vacuum source for the bypass valve. Most recommend you have a dedicated source off the manifold.

He's talking about he second nipple on a type S.


to the person asking the question
You can use a source anywhere on your intake tract that is before the throttle blade. Also, dont run one spring if you are using both ports. That defeats the purpose.

I think the greddy type S is a great BOV if you run it right. Their is just a lot of bad information out there on how to set it up.
 
The instructions state that the lower piece doesn't have to be setup. It's intended for low boost applications for quicker reaction time. Also it says not to cap that piece, if it's not in use then leave it alone.
 
The instructions state that the lower piece doesn't have to be setup. It's intended for low boost applications for quicker reaction time. Also it says not to cap that piece, if it's not in use then leave it alone.


I've never looked at any instructions for my valve. I can verify that it performs well to 28-29 psi using both ports., I've ran this valve to 35psi, but not for long periods, so i can't really comment how well it works at those pressures.
 
I'm starting to figure out that this bov is a pain to dial in, I've got it setup pretty legit with the single spring and no lower port but I wanted to try and get it dialed with the dual spring and lower port...idk why I like making my life harder then it needs to be.... but my car isn't having it, wants to die off throttle on super loose setting so back to single spring I go.
 
Yea i've been where you are. When i bought my front mount kit it came with a dumb greddy knockoff BOV that i couldn't get dialed in for the life of me, i was getting compressor surge all the time. I ended up just buying an HKS adapter flange and put my HKS back on. I think they are just really touchy, i'd just get a real greddy BOV, they aren't too expensive, because i messed around with that knockoff bov for HOURS and it just wouldn't cooperate.
 
Just get it stiff enough to stay closed at idle and forget about it. A little off-throttle surge isn't going to hurt anything. Toyota produced turbocharged cars for decades without diverter valves. I have one sitting in my shop with the original turbo that has been fluttering for over 180k miles. Zero shaft play.

If you want your BOV to sound like a legit Greddy, you'll just have to buy a Greddy. But your paying for the sound, not the function. My knock-off Greddy has been holding over 25psi for thousands of miles now. And all I did was tighten the adjuster a tad and install it.
 
Man i wish i was that lucky, mine came busted:ohdamn:. Maybe i was just unlucky and now have stereotyped knockoff BOV's forever. The adjuster screw on the top was stripped the first time i went to adjust it out of the box, and could never get the darn thing to poof for me :cry:
 
So I got my ngr the other day and compared it to my greddy the internals seem a little different only in terms of the casting, as it is not as smoothed as the greddy. The other items seem close to the same, I only bought the ngr as I needed a diaphram but just bought the whole unit and a spare diaphram haha. I will do a review and pic of the differences over the next week,
 
I went back to single spring and decided to stretch it a little and it seems to have actualy helped make noise somehow, now I get the whistle and no surge... definatly a surprise to me seeing that I didn't do much.

Update:
Gotta love the type s LOL, now I'm not holding any more then 15psi steady, creeping to 17ish... yesterday I was holding 20+ no problem. I swapped diaphrams just to rule it out so my next move is teflon tape on the adjuster and upper port threads, then change the lower gasket if need be....I'll be making a boost leak tester very very soon!
 
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