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Greddy type S "knock off" issues.. very strange to me..

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forged_tsi

Probationary Member
16
0
Nov 23, 2009
lynnwood, Washington
first off i just got this car not too long ago and i didnt do any of the prior work. whats listed below has been an ongoing nightmare so far.. sorry if its a bit back and forth, i want to leave enough information to help solve this problem...

so i came across a strange thing when i swapped out my "knock off" greddy type RS with a knock off type s. the type s has the secondary vacuum port and it is hooked up at the moment (to the turbo outlet nipple)

ive tried just leaving it open and the problem persists!

the problem:

when i free rev, car catches idle just fine *usually*
however when i am under load and boost to say 4-5 psi and just let off it wont catch idle 99% of the time and studders and dies. sometimes, rarely it will studder and catch.

the thing that gets me, excuse my typed soundFX.. is when it blows off i hear the PSHHHHH folowed by a phsssss that doesnt seem to stop until throttle is applied. once throttle is applied it will catch an idle. if i shift slowly it will sort of studder and then catch again.

its almost like my bov wont close until the vacuum is decreased.. i thought of putting the small spring in with the two springs currently in the type S.

none of this happend with my type RS knock off, and i had removed the small spring in that one.. the type RS did NOT have the secondary vacuum port either.

i have tried adjusting the tension from softest to highest with no changes. with or without the secondary line hooked up. when i have it as tight as i can get either i get compressor surge or my BOV flutters..

what im looking for is a fix for this without purchasing a new BOV right away.. the reason i have this is the type RS was a friends, he came accross a type S for free and wanted the RS back. i know knock offs tend to leak, but i thought that was under boost?

the only thing i havent done yet is BLT, and i got the BLTer from a friend and as soon as i can get to a compressor i will be doing that..

i already had an issue with the car stalling, and i THOUGHT i had fixed it some what by playing with the BISS.. however the idle surge still remains. and the idle wont stay below 1200 rpms. as in i cant get it to idle at 750 like its supossed to... hella anoying ### i wanna hear my cams damnit!

oh, also at idle the vacuum reads about 15-17 when it decides to idle at about 1k rpms. this is due to cams so far as i can tell and is normal..

i also checked my MAF to see if it had been hacked, it had not.

My car was throwing a CEL for o2 sensor, IAT, Barrometric pressure sensor, and i believe it was MAF... however the codes have been cleared and nothing since has come up. yet..

my mods are as follows

1G 6 bolt with BC 272 cams

ACT light weight flywheel (so i was told) and an ACT street/strip clutch kit. no idea which one.. sorry.

Adjustable FPR with 1:1 rise (knock off of some sort, but looks EXACTLY like an aeromotive.. seen it online at dsmparts.com or another site.. cant find it now haha running 30 psi at idle.

stock 14B turbo with EVO III exhaust housing, ported wastegate.

bolt on (magnaflow?) exhaust 3" turbo back

2G throttle body elbow

Greddy profec B Spec II boost controller. running 12.2 psi right now.

i have an air fuel gauge that isnt hooked up because i dont have a wideband..

sorry, no data logger right now either, going to try and borrow one..

any ideas on how to solve this would be great! i just want my car to idle and not look like a goober at the light when my car dies after the awesomeness... i thought about modding my stock BOV for quick acting and filling the holes that i drilled in the flang, or finding a new uicp with an undrilled flange...

thanks in advance for any help! im not totally retarded but owning my own turbo car.. this is a first for me.. haha
 
Adjustable FPR with 1:1 rise (knock off of some sort, but looks EXACTLY like an aeromotive.. seen it online at dsmparts.com or another site.. cant find it now haha running 30 psi at idle.

Anyone is free to correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't the base fuel pressure be 42 psi at idle? If you're lean at idle, I can see how that would make for idle surge.

Other than that, your post is hard to decipher.
 
the thing that gets me, excuse my typed soundFX.. is when it blows off i hear the PSHHHHH folowed by a phsssss that doesnt seem to stop until throttle is applied. once throttle is applied it will catch an idle. if i shift slowly it will sort of studder and then catch again.

its almost like my bov wont close until the vacuum is decreased.. i thought of putting the small spring in with the two springs currently in the type S.

none of this happend with my type RS knock off, and i had removed the small spring in that one.. the type RS did NOT have the secondary vacuum port either.

i have tried adjusting the tension from softest to highest with no changes. with or without the secondary line hooked up. when i have it as tight as i can get either i get compressor surge or my BOV flutters..

I can only help with this. Change the cheap ass rubber gasket that seperates the dual chambers with a bicycle inner tube shaped exactly like the POS shit one. I had the same issue, did the mod, then viola... perfect running ebay BOV for the past 2 years. Everything else, i'm not sure as your post was hard to read. But give it a try...

KJ
 
Ok first off, the little secondary nipple on greddy's is made to be hooked up to a strictly boost line and not a vac/boost line. This secondary nipple takes boost pressure and uses it to keep the valve closed under boost. You need to recirculate the air that comes out of your BOV back into your intake, this is why you are stalling. That and these BOV's tend to leak while idling. Whats happening is when you hit your BOV it is dumping metered air ( air that has been accounted for by the MAF and ECU) When you dump this "metered" air from the system you end up with too rich of a fuel/air mixture and it floods out your motor and kills it.

Also if your idle is surging which means reving up and down then your FIAC is bad or is going bad.

Try this. Let your car idle and put your hand over the BOV dump tube and see if your car idles better. If it does then your BOV is leaking under vacume
 
Last edited:
Sounds like he is venting, BUT stalling could be due to the cams with no tune. After installing my Delta 272's, if I dont feather the throttle down while coming to a stop, it will stall. Really annoying in sudden stops when the car stalls out.
 
Sounds like he is venting, BUT stalling could be due to the cams with no tune. After installing my Delta 272's, if I dont feather the throttle down while coming to a stop, it will stall. Really annoying in sudden stops when the car stalls out.

If that is the case then you either need to get DSM LINK (recommended!) or a fuel tuner such as S-AFC or others to tune your fuel trim at low throttle
 
If that is the case then you either need to get DSM LINK (recommended!) or a fuel tuner such as S-AFC or others to tune your fuel trim at low throttle

I am going to be getting DSMLink and tuning early 2010. I came out and blatantly asked what the cause of this issue could be in another thread and nobody answered.

I rev the car in neutral and if I let the RPM fall by itself, it stalls. When coming to a stop, throw it in neutral and it will stall if I don't blip the throttle a few times. It's dangerous on the highway when there are sudden stops because I push the clutch in and brake and then the damn thing stalls out and I have to start it back up real fast. I have no time to hit the gas sometimes. It doesn't happen 100% of the time...more like 98% of the time. SOMETIMES it will just about stall and then catch itself and then idle normal. Very rarey though.

I have a Fidanza 8lb flywheel, balance shaft elimination and 272/272 cams. What do you think the issue is?
 
my BOV is recirculated. i havent done my BLT yet but as soon as time allows i will be.. i read that my "stock" fuel pressure at idle on a 1G is 27.. i have it set at 30 and it still stalls at idle.. i have my secondary line attacted to the boost line comming off the turbo outlet..

my idle is usually very rough almost all of the time.. it will idle at around 1200 then drop slowly to around 1000 then to around 500 studder and die. if i for instance climb to the top of a slight hill and let off and hit the brakes it dies almost always.

i would love to get DSMlink, a AEM eugo, and an AEM truboost (sticky tape on my steering column with the greddy profec.. not my "style") but hey it came witht he car and its decent for now right?

i just read how to test my IACV and ill be doing that as soon as i can.. i wouldnt doubt that its messin up though...

im kinda guessing a boost leak might be the cause of all of this.. however i can still hold, and actually get some boost creep, unless my vacuum line to the wastegate is messed up... checking that in the AM too...

damn money pit haha

anyways..

sorry my post is hard to read haha hope this clarifies a few things.. thanks!
 
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