The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Knock off Greddy Type S bov

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

I've personally owned a REAL Greddy Type-S that had failed on me.

I purchased it BRAND NEW from a reputable dealer close to 3 years ago (no rip-offs available around then) and within 7 or 8 months, the spring tension stud/nut stripped out and shot into my hood, leaving a good sized dent on the actual hood itself and rendering the BOV useless.

I'd never actually adjusted the nut before, had no reason to, and Greddy says to leave it alone unless you are having trouble anyway. Moral of the story is, EVERYTHING IS MADE IN THE SAME PLACE. You do get what you pay for. An immense amount of unneccessary advertising and many many cooool race cars with Greddy's name on em....

Oh yeah, about the "oil resistant" SUPER rubber seal, I have my valve cover vent tube pointing straight down in my engine bay, I don't get any oil sent back into the intake, so unelss my turbo takes a huge shit into my intercooler and past my proudly own SSAUTOCRHOME/XS POWER FMIC (short route piping, polished aluminum pipes, greddy flange - $280 shipped :) ), I think this NON super resistant crazy seal would do just fine.
 
alright Thanks DSM90awd for poking at all my errors. I should have worded that better. What I meant by manufacturs is there headers and BOVs are made by them that just simple CNC process and bending tubes and porting which can be done pretty cheap if you do it your self. Done It in our schools machineshop for a manifold but I suck at welding but it wasn't expensive in materials.

No I am not a marketing major...I wish cuz then I wouldnt be so broke all the time. Im definitely a motor sports technology major. Just word things wrong often.

Anyways I took it upon my self to modify an idea that I saw in here with the guy taking apart the BOV and showing pics and giving a product review. Im gunna give a product review of one of their turbo kits since I had alot of money. I got a t3/t4 to4e 57 trim turbo, manifold with external gate, 46mm wastegate, and BOV. I did get a bunch of extras like a evo high flow fuel rail dumptube and a bunch of t-bolt clamps and some silicone couplings. Im just waiting on some fuel injectors to come in from some where else and then ill be ready to install. But where should I post this is there a reviews section? on products.
 
The Knock Off Bovs Suck. I Bought The Knock Off Type Rs And They Tend To Get Stuck Open. The Spring Is Also A Lot Harder. It Doesn't Even Open Up To Let Out The Pressure. So Spend Hte Extra Money And Get The Real Think Or Risk The Pressure Going Back Through The Turbo And Messing Things Up.
 
ECLIPSEGST25 said:
The Knock Off Bovs Suck. I Bought The Knock Off Type Rs And They Tend To Get Stuck Open. The Spring Is Also A Lot Harder. It Doesn't Even Open Up To Let Out The Pressure. So Spend Hte Extra Money And Get The Real Think Or Risk The Pressure Going Back Through The Turbo And Messing Things Up.
If you spend the time to read all the posts in this thread you'll see that your last sentence doesn't make sense. Also, don't capitalize all your words please; it's annoying.
 
yes it is exactly the same as the real type s, same sound, same performance, i had one of those, but upgraded it to the rs, so it is definetly worth it
 
Well I have 65 bucks to burn so I went ahead and bought one just now. I'll let you know how it works. If not I guess I'll try the real thing next time no biggie.
 
Ive had the knock-off type S on my car for about 3 months now and havent had one problem at all. Works just like it should. I mean i dont get the exact sound of the real one, but to my understandings the knock-off has a different spring which allows it to hold more psi then the real one.. if im correct. Some things id rather buy cheap the spend the money... Im not about to go out and spend 200 on a BOV when i could get the knock-off for cheap and use the rest of the money else where. Plus if mine does happen to crap out on me, i got about 3 1g bovs laying around the house (one of which has a hole drilled in for a louder sound).
 
Why buy a greddy, sounds like a sneeze. Apex Loud WOOOSSSHHH at high boost, and sputtered sound at low boost. I hate the type s, but to each his own!!

Good luck with the knock-off!:talon:
 
thats why i made my 1st gen bov adjustable

BUT my best friend runs the knock off for a year now and no probs at all, honestly its a gamble with either valve, real or fake, they both have problems but 40$ is WAY better than 200+ for the real one...........jmho
 
totally agree it might work might not--i say spend the 40bucks first if it does then great-- if not then get youself a new bov, but at least you tried saving money--isnt that what we are all trying to do-- save money to buy more car stuff--Personally i still think the aftermarket companies are still charging too much money for the parts they are selling--After all aren't dsm's over 10yrs old now?? Im mean come on--it still doesn't cost that much to make--just my .02
 
Ok, those of you following the thread for a while remember I got the knock off and disected it in my first review. It has now been about two months and I finally killed the BOV so I took it apart again for your enjoyment. What ended up happening was that the membrane ripped if a few places, mind you I was running 20psi but that shouldnt happen. It caused a huge vacuum leak from the second port at the bottom. So after further examination of the actualy base I decided it was exactly the same as a real Greddy except the membrane was made of a really cheap material. So after some thinking I decided to order the replacement membrane from the real Greddy for around $60. When it arived it i looked it over in comparison to the knock off membrane and decided it was far superior. So I installed it and it dropped right it and fit like a glove. So now the total cost is about $110 but is still about half of a real type-S. So I would say that the base makes no difference but the real Greddy membrane is what takes the cake. So if you dont mind the little customization then its a good way to save a few dollars. Look for another update in a little while.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I thought all you had to do was drill a couple holes closer together on a 1g flange? Search around and I am sure there is a thread about it somewhere.
 
I have a friend that has a knock off greddy type-s , and ssqv...and they both work like the real thing. sound the exact same too.

on a side note on cheap parts...
I bought a Stillen Down pipe for my 3kgt vr-4 for $320...and the flanges where almost 1/4" off.
I had a friend with the same exact car...he bought a cheapo one off ebay, and it fit perfect. no problems. and his was polished also...whereas mine was just ss.

You win some, you lose some....
good luck with whatever you do.
 
Thanks for the updates-- This is very good information--Hopefully these large companies are seeing that we are doing some R&D and hopefully come down on the prices to make it a little more competive--
 
Hey DiamondStarM, if you get a chance would you tell us where you got that part from (the membrane). I have a knock-off Type RS and I might just go ahead and change out that piece before I ever run it.

Thanks in advance
 
So after further examination of the actualy base I decided it was exactly the same as a real Greddy except the membrane was made of a really cheap material.

Two months ago I posted in this very thread that Greddy representatives had discovered pretty much the same thing and I got flamed for it by a few people.

In fact, here's exactly what I said: "The issue here is, according to Greddy, the knock-offs use a simple rubber diaphragm that isn't oil resistant. Sure, it'll work great for a few months, maybe even a year or two. But over time, as all that junk that gets sent back into our intake tracts builds up on it, it'll wear down and fail."
 
I agree with you Boxx, I think people were jumping on you because at that point the thread was taking a "all knock off is crap" turn and not actually discussing this bov..

I like to take things apart to understand them more and the small price I paid for the part was worth the information I got from it and in the long run the money I saved. Plus now everyone now knows from my first hand experience all aspects of the bov not just what the big company wants you to hear even though in this case they were correct
 
DiamondStarM: Thanks for the write up and detective work. (sorry I missed you the first time I posted here)

Was it easy you locate the replacement diaphram? On the Greddy site it looks like they say the list price is $ 82.00
 
The part number is 99900061 and you can get the part from a few places...

http://www.overboost.com/obs/product.asp?pid=31040

http://www.cardomain.com/item/GRE99900061

http://www.import-racer.com/sku/99900061

http://speedalliance.com/engine/blow_off.html

You will notice the whole diaphram is not only a different material but also a different design(unless Greddy had modified their membrane at one point and thets why some people used to have problems with the old ones breaking), but it does drop right in and is holding 20psi currently on my application with about a week of driving so far.
 
i purchased a fake greddy type s earlier today before i read this article and decided to get the model (red color) with the nipple on the top and bottom (all of the other colors only had the nipple on the top) i am going to run 20 psi on it. how would you guys recommend installing it? attaching the bottom nipple to a intercooler pipe or to atmosphere? AND taking out the weak spring, or leave in the spring. or let the bottom nipple be open and take out the weak spring.
 
corwininadsm said:
i purchased a fake greddy type s earlier today before i read this article and decided to get the model (red color) with the nipple on the top and bottom (all of the other colors only had the nipple on the top) i am going to run 20 psi on it. how would you guys recommend installing it? attaching the bottom nipple to a intercooler pipe or to atmosphere? AND taking out the weak spring, or leave in the spring. or let the bottom nipple be open and take out the weak spring.
Lots of info in this thread:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=465301
 
How are guys recirculating it back? I bought the 32mm recircualtimg from Extreme psi and the fitting doesn't work it's to big. I thought it needed the 29mm but Extreme said since it was a knockoff that's why the 32 doesn't fit and the 29mm won't fit either. I thought the knockoff was the same exact size?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 3 inch Magnaflow SS high flow cat
    3 inch Magnaflow stainless cat. High flow. 18.25 inches. Flange holes are 4 1/8 center. Has...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top