just got dsmlink, now what?

[turbo98eclipse]

for the past 3-4 months ive been building my 96 gsx shell. its currently running pretty well, but i figured w/ my goals that i should get link to make sure everything is running fine before i put in my aftermarket turbo. question is, what exactly am i looking for? simply put: is there like an ideal log "vicinity" my reading should be in? is there certain data i should be looking for to correct?

my parts list:

jdm 4g63t w/ 13b
stock 450 injectors
255 walbro
fuelab afpr
hallman pro mbc
short route fmic
type s bov
"chrome intakes" intake
3" custom borla exhaust
aem uego wideband
95 eprom w/ dsmlink v3 lite

act 2600
fidanza flywheel
stage 2 tranny
a bunch of other things non related to my question---

i have a speed density ready to go on, but i want to make sure the car is "tuned" properly before i throw on the SD and hx35 w/ the other mods i have. any advice on where to start?

thanx!!

 

[gofer]

Start the car and let it warm up completely and then start logging in link, let it log for about 3 minutes and then post it up so we can see it. Initial Setup --- Capturing & Streaming Data --- Captured and Displayed Values

 

[turbo98eclipse]

heres my 3min datalog and also a word on what i did:

i watched the videos posted, and adjusted my throttle position to zero it out at idle (i did NOT simulate the idle switch from tps... should i have?).
when i got my new engine it was missing the idle screw on the throttle itself... so when i zero'd it out on link, i adjusted the screw a bit to get it to the target 850rpm i was supposed to be at.... sound correct? then i started this log--

i let it idle for a few seconds, then i blipped the throttle, just for date purposes.
i also went to check the afpr, it appeared to be at maybe 48-50 psi: too high i assume. it also looks like im running a bit lean.. almost 16:1 at idle

let it idle again and then hit the 4500rpm launch control at about 92seconds in... when i did THAT and let off, the car bogged wayyy down until all my warning lights came on (basically about to stall out) but then regained composure and leveled out again. what could i check for?

any other info or questions feel free to chime in! thanx

 

[gofer]

Im just going down the list in your settings...
-You can simulate the idle switch from your TPS, on 2g's it isn't that big of a deal but some of us running E85 simulate it and use the idle switch to go from a 91 octane map to an E85 map. Even before I was running E85 I was simulating the idle switch because if it goes bad then your car will die at idle, I'd simulate it.

-You can set your fuel pressure without the car even idling now that you have dsmlink. To set it just turn the key to ON and connect with a laptop. Go to your Misc Tab and click the "Activate Fuel Pump" box then pop your hood. Adjust your afpr to 43.5psi, you don't have to disconnect the vacuum line either the car isn't ON so it will make no difference.

-Is your WB in the rear o2 location? If so you can get rid of those CEL codes by simply going to the DTC Tab and unchecking the Cat efficiency/o2 box and hitting "Update All."

- Because you have a lean AFR at idle and your car almost dies when you rev it up and let off the gas Id suspect you have a vacuum leak. Do a BLT and make sure EVERYTHING is good, no hissing anywhere!

- Once you take care of your vacuum leak or atleast check that there are none watch this demo and setup your MAFComp sliders Fuel Trims

 

[turbo98eclipse]

sounds good! ill do as you say, i should have a report back sometime tomorrow evening-- thanx for the help so far!!

 

[turbo98eclipse]

a few updates w/ a new log--

simulated idle from tps and also moved my idle from 850 to 900. also found out wot on the pedal was only about 87%-- im running a non cruise cable mod so i fixed that as well-- idles almost perfect now

did a BLT and i was leaking HEAVY from the jpipe and the TB. fixed both, but there is a reallll small (2 actually) pinhole leak in my fmic inside the fins, so theres nothing i can do about that. i got a ton of bubbles rather than a big one which is what im basing my assumption that they are pinhole sized.

PROBLEM-- when my car is turned off, my wideband reads from 14.9-15.4 but when i start the car it gets stuck at 14.9. when i build boost and let off, it will cycle up to about 15.3, but when it goes back to regular vacuum or im on the gas it wont read anything but 14.9. this is seen in my log as the aemWBGauge reading 15.1:1 during the entire log until i hit launch control @4500 and let off (goes from 15.1 to 15.6ish then back to 15.1) question is WHY?? i switched the ground to a chassis ground, power is on the big blue radio wire (abt 13.4v at idle) and the white wire to the 75 ecu pin. the sensor worked earlier when i FIRST put it in... i had it idling at around 14.5-7 for about 10 minutes, turned the car off then back on and then this.
--WB is in the front o2 sensor location, rear location is plugged up-- WB is hooked up to the rear o2, ecu 75, pin and the narrow band is simulated at a 2.33 switch point

car RUNS great!! im just not sure whats up w/ my WB

i wont do any fuel trims until i fix that--- any suggestions?

 

[gofer]

You still need go out on a cruise and adjust your MAFComp sliders using this link. ---> MAFComp Demo

Your wideband is in the front o2 sensor location yet your logging it from the rear o2, any reason why? How did you wire it into the ECU, did you cut the white wire at pin 75 and then connect the wideband to it or did you just tap into the wire so it still has continuity to the rear o2 connector? You might also try going into your DA and using the STFTandO2Feedback Tab and see if you cant get the sensor to cycle better. In the O2 Feedback Adjustment Rate blocks you'll see the stock settings are idle 4 and other is 10, try putting in a idle value of 10 and other value of 16.

You definitely need to adjust those MAFComp sliders and get your fuel trims where they need to be, then figure out why the WB won't cycle like it should because it might fix itself after adjusting MAFComp.

 

[turbo98eclipse]

You still need go out on a cruise and adjust your MAFComp sliders using this link. ---> MAFComp Demo

Your wideband is in the front o2 sensor location yet your logging it from the rear o2, any reason why? How did you wire it into the ECU, did you cut the white wire at pin 75 and then connect the wideband to it or did you just tap into the wire so it still has continuity to the rear o2 connector? You might also try going into your DA and using the STFTandO2Feedback Tab and see if you cant get the sensor to cycle better. In the O2 Feedback Adjustment Rate blocks you'll see the stock settings are idle 4 and other is 10, try putting in a idle value of 10 and other value of 16.

You definitely need to adjust those MAFComp sliders and get your fuel trims where they need to be, then figure out why the WB won't cycle like it should because it might fix itself after adjusting MAFComp.

well originally i had it in the rear o2 bung, but the previous owner of the car/exhaust stripped those threads so i decided to move it up front to avoid any major damage to the sensors threads. i ALSO originally had the wire on the rear o2 connector itself, but later that day i switched it to the 75 pin @ the ecu. should i tap into the front o2 ecu pin (i think its right next to it... 76?) instead?

ill def adjust the o2 feedback blocks and take it for a spin tomorrow to adjust the maf sliders

ill post results tomorrow night as long as the site isnt down for 2 days again

 

[gofer]

Yea, the site being down is definitely getting irritating but I'm sure Chris is doing updates to it that will make it better overall.

Your AEM WB reading isn't right, somethings going on thats throwing it off. Check the connectors on the back of it and make sure they are secure and are making a good connection and also relocate the wiring from the WB to the front o2 sensor pin 76. Make sure that you don't just tap the white wire into the ecu's pin 76, but instead, you cut it and wire the AEM into pin 76.

Your ECU is stuck in open loop so select the "lock front o2 sensor voltage" box in the ECU inputs tab.

 

[turbo98eclipse]

Yea, the site being down is definitely getting irritating but I'm sure Chris is doing updates to it that will make it better overall.

Your AEM WB reading isn't right, somethings going on thats throwing it off. Check the connectors on the back of it and make sure they are secure and are making a good connection and also relocate the wiring from the WB to the front o2 sensor pin 76. Make sure that you don't just tap the white wire into the ecu's pin 76, but instead, you cut it and wire the AEM into pin 76.

Your ECU is stuck in open loop so select the "lock front o2 sensor voltage" box in the ECU inputs tab.

changed it from 75 to 76, locked the front o2 voltage-- but when i watched the video i was able to get my airflowperrev to about .24-.26 which according to the video is good.. but when i went to adjust my combinedFT, it was stuck at 5.1%...im assuming because i locked the o2 voltage? so when i went to play with deadtime, it wouldnt adjust anything (though i could smell the car running rich). so i took the car for a spin hoping maybe it would adjust something:

i would get to maybe 4000rpm let off and the car would shake HARD (fuel cut? ive never felt it, but i could imagine thats what it feels like...) i did that twice just for logging. when i went to use the mafcomp tool the template didnt change at all, assuming because my combined FT was stuck at 5.1 the whole time---

so what do i do now? how do i tune around the locked front o2?


3 logs... 1 is the cruise, 2 is hitting launch ctrl with the o2 locked, 3 is hitting launch ctrl with the o2 unlocked again

update: with the WB sensor not working the way its supposed to, im going to put the stock NB back in so that i can get some proper tuning info in. ill prob leave the NB in front and move the WB to the rear when i get a new one

 

[DSMDirkah]

Is there a way to use the serial output of the AEM in ECMlink? I understand that it would be just for tuning with the laptop but it would cut down on all the voltage offset issues and give a possible sanity check.

Digital > Anolog ......sometimes

 

[twdorris]

Is there a way to use the serial output of the AEM in ECMlink?

Not currently. The ECMLink laptop application was designed to support data from multiple devices coming into it simultaneously. So a lot of the work is done. The problem is with the fine details of time synchronization of multiple sources, particularly if more than one has its own idea of "current" time.

So, for now, ECMLink only supports logging from a single device. That device could be anything for which a module was written, but it would still just be one at a time.

Thomas Dorris

 

[turbo98eclipse]

well i put the narrowband back up front and was able to get a good log and template-- as far as the BOV not opening up easily enough, that may be true because my screw was fairly bias to "hard". i didnt see this post before my logs so ill adjust that tomorrow.

as far as the wideband, my bro in law actually put it in for me. when i went to take it out i saw it was only in maybe 2 threads deep? after thinking about that and going to school for mechanical engineering im ASSUMING:
when the car was off it would read properly, but when turned on it would set itself at 14.9. possibly because exhaust gas passing a 1/2 screwed in sensor would cause a vacuum and suck in air, causing it to alter the reading ie:14.9

but its over now... the WB is bac in the rear bung and when i looked at it a few hrs ago it was reading 14.5-7 ish. ill prob keep it there for now-- i have a holset hx35 waiting for installation so when i get my new o2 housing etc--- ill move it around then.

attached is my log after my template was applied (at idle)