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just got a holset

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turbojo

10+ Year Contributor
164
2
Oct 10, 2011
hazel green, Alabama
ok i just got a holset hx40 for my dd i know this turbo is gonna be laggy but what all should i do to get it spooled as fast as posible with out choking the turbo and what size injectors should i buy what and will one 255 pump ok for fuel i plan on running about 25 psi mabe a little more also how much power should this thing make at 25psi on a stock 6bolt long block :D
 
First you need to ask yourself some questions.. First of all, why did you get an HX40 sized turbo?

Which compressor do you have? Which turbine wheel/housing combo do you have? What are you looking to do? How are you going to use the car? Do you have a power goal in mind?

If you don't even know how much air you are looking to move there is no way in knowing how much fuel you need to support the turbo.

What does this sentence even mean?:
know this turbo is gonna be laggy but what all should i do to get it spooled as fast as posible with out choking the turbo

I honestly have no idea what you are asking with this post, and I don't feel I will be alone on that. I am sure many would like to help but you have a lot of research to do just to know what questions you should be asking, if that makes sense.

Not looking to be a dick, these are genuine questions that need to be answered in order to establish a plan for yourself. But honestly you should have searched all of this before buying a ~70lb/min turbo.
 
First you need to ask yourself some questions.. First of all, why did you get an HX40 sized turbo?

Which compressor do you have? Which turbine wheel/housing combo do you have? What are you looking to do? How are you going to use the car? Do you have a power goal in mind?

If you don't even know how much air you are looking to move there is no way in knowing how much fuel you need to support the turbo.

What does this sentence even mean?:


I honestly have no idea what you are asking with this post, and I don't feel I will be alone on that. I am sure many would like to help but you have a lot of research to do just to know what questions you should be asking, if that makes sense.

Not looking to be a dick, these are genuine questions that need to be answered in order to establish a plan for yourself. But honestly you should have searched all of this before buying a ~70lb/min turbo.

ok i want about 450hp to the wheels and what i was talking about before is whitch bep housing should i go with for this turbo
 
For 450ish whp, you could easily get away with the bolt-on DSM BEP housing. You'll need to flow at least 47-48lbs/min with a decent tune to reach your goals. For fuel, a single walbro 255 and AFPR with 1200cc injectors on pump gas could do it.
 
with th 55ar bep what rpm should full boost be at and where can i get the bep for the best price
 
ok i want about 450hp to the wheels and what i was talking about before is whitch bep housing should i go with for this turbo

First, I agree with the above reply...you need to know your goals and provide additional info for an accurate response!
But the mods to these cars start with the amount of AIR you are moving (via boost/turbo). Then you must be able to provide enough fuel to keep your Air/Fuel Ratios in check (at WOT, approx 11:1).
So, to make 450HP, you will need to move about 47.3 lbs/min of air. (which your HX40 'can' support (usual disclaimers apply). To keep your A/F Ratio as noted above, a 880cc Fuel Injector will be able to support this at 80% IDC.
Concerning your queston on the WB255 pump, an UN-rewired pump will support about 50 lb/min at 25 lbs of boost. (remember as boost increases, your pump output will decrease.

The BEP .55 bolt on housing will provide the quickest spool, but will limit your high end airflow. Read the Holset Threads, it contains valuable data!

Notes: Without some type of tuning device, you cannot get to 450 HP. You should also do some more homework on how these pieces all fit together. One impacts the other.
 
Holsets dont even wake up till 30 PSI LOL
An 8-blade 58mm HX40 wouldn't be a bad choice at 25psi. The 6-blade or 7-blade 60mm compressors aren't going to be moving much air at boost that low.

Although I agree- this thread is quite basic and is asking the same questions we've seen over and over in the many Holset threads on this site.
 
Honestly for 450whp, you could've gone with a smaller snail if you are worried about spool. But since you already have it, as others have mentioned you will need to bank on moving 48-50lbs/min.

I say this because in your profile you have a 14B dyno reading 280whp/260wtq on C16, so something or several things in your setup are robbing you of power somewhere at least with what little info I have from you so far.

In any event, as some have suggested quickest spool will come with the .55A/R bolt on housing from Bullseye, I had it on my S200-59 initially and it was a great hotside for a purely street driven vehicle. At a certain threshold depending on your setup backpressure will start to increase faster than boost and this will rob you of power.

So basically it will spool quicker but you'll make less power/psi boost and less max flow over all at the top end.

The .70A/R T3 Bullseye housing would be another option, or if it were me I would just go straight to the twinscroll T3 stock housings and look for something in the 14cm2 flavor.

As black_gst mentioned, these things don't really wake up till your north of 30psi, so anticipate potentially shooting for more than 450awhp otherwise you aren't really taking advantage of this turbo. It was the same story on my 59mm S200sx. A lot of fun between 15-25psi, but life north of 30 was a whole different animal.

If you have E85 in your area consider building a fuel system that can take advantage of that.

Also, if you are not getting AT LEAST 12.x volts at the pump terminals you will have a tough time making your goals on a single Walbro 255HP, especially as boost increases, or if you have any restrictions in your fuel system like the banjo bolt/line between the stock filter and the rail.
 
Theres a lot behind to switching to this setup. If money isnt a problem, then you be ok. But youll need a new housing unless you keep the stock. Then youll need a new manifold since its not MHI flanged. Then youll need a wastegate. What about overehating problems with all this? You can upgrade to different fans since you might have a hard time with fitment.
 
There are lots of better turbo's for your goals. Most decent 50 trims, GT3076, HX35, HY35 all will get you in the power range you looking at. Most of which will have faster boost with a smaller footprint.

I'm making just about 450 on my HY35 at 25psi, based on trap speeds. It has a monster wide powerband. It starts pulling at 3500, and don't quit till the rev limiter at 8500. I'm having it dynoed over spring break so I'll have real numbers then.

If you stick with the HX40, run the BEP housing, and I'd run an internal gate too. Easy 450whp bullet proof setup. Should make power from 4-8k with the right cams and intake.
 
I didn't see what your using for tuning. Your going to need something better than a safc. Dsmlink could help.

im runnning dsmlink v3 full and ive aready rewired my fuel pump

There are lots of better turbo's for your goals. Most decent 50 trims, GT3076, HX35, HY35 all will get you in the power range you looking at. Most of which will have faster boost with a smaller footprint.

I'm making just about 450 on my HY35 at 25psi, based on trap speeds. It has a monster wide powerband. It starts pulling at 3500, and don't quit till the rev limiter at 8500. I'm having it dynoed over spring break so I'll have real numbers then.

If you stick with the HX40, run the BEP housing, and I'd run an internal gate too. Easy 450whp bullet proof setup. Should make power from 4-8k with the right cams and intake.
what cams should i get to maxamize this set up while still being street friendy
 
Evo8 maf for simplicity. I've only run SD on the free software. It was a pain. The payware stuff may be better, but I'd still rather spend my time dialing in fuel and timing, vs VE, fuel, timing.

Personally, I have a 1g, and I don't think the baro input has enough resolution to do a good job on SD duties with a 4 bar map. It's only 8 bit, so you have 256 numbers to represent all the different manifold pressures... that can lead to part throttle issues. I feel.
 
Evo8 maf for simplicity. I've only run SD on the free software. It was a pain. The payware stuff may be better, but I'd still rather spend my time dialing in fuel and timing, vs VE, fuel, timing.

Personally, I have a 1g, and I don't think the baro input has enough resolution to do a good job on SD duties with a 4 bar map. It's only 8 bit, so you have 256 numbers to represent all the different manifold pressures... that can lead to part throttle issues. I feel.

16x 16 setup of cells although notthe resolution we are now use to is still quite capable. Just keep in mind that the ECU interpolates values between the cells surrounding it when you're not fully into a visually represented load vs. rpm cell.

The old ACcell DFI systems were the same way and althoughrather cruse by todays standards they powred many a5 liter drag mustangs to low 9 second1/4 milesand faster as well as poweringthe rousche turbo 4 cylinder SVO mustangs in their road racing championships. basically as long asyou tune the cells you're given properly the interpolated values in between should be just fine unless for somereason you have weird spike or change/problem with the engines' VE at certain low throttle operations

I had one left over frommy mustang days that i actually sold and installed on a honda that runs mid 10's (or did before he parted itout) and that car was daily driven on 1200cc injectors..

Not trying to say anyone is wrong about anything, i'm just saying that 16 x 16 resoluytion is up to the task of doing the job as long as you take the time to tune all of the cells correctly and not just the ones you're in under WOT and just as basic cruise.. you can fine tune the interpolated values by tweaking the cells next to the ones you are using even if you never land in them the systemwill still take someof their value into the algorithym that decides the final output of spark and fuel.

and depending on what software you're using if you can adjust your break points you can give up someofthe low vacum areas that aren'tused and utilize them for added resolution in the boost cells
 
16x 16 setup of cells although notthe resolution we are now use to is still quite capable. Just keep in mind that the ECU interpolates values between the cells surrounding it when you're not fully into a visually represented load vs. rpm cell.

The old ACcell DFI systems were the same way and althoughrather cruse by todays standards they powred many a5 liter drag mustangs to low 9 second1/4 milesand faster as well as poweringthe rousche turbo 4 cylinder SVO mustangs in their road racing championships. basically as long asyou tune the cells you're given properly the interpolated values in between should be just fine unless for somereason you have weird spike or change/problem with the engines' VE at certain low throttle operations

I had one left over frommy mustang days that i actually sold and installed on a honda that runs mid 10's (or did before he parted itout) and that car was daily driven on 1200cc injectors..

Not trying to say anyone is wrong about anything, i'm just saying that 16 x 16 resoluytion is up to the task of doing the job as long as you take the time to tune all of the cells correctly and not just the ones you're in under WOT and just as basic cruise.. you can fine tune the interpolated values by tweaking the cells next to the ones you are using even if you never land in them the systemwill still take someof their value into the algorithym that decides the final output of spark and fuel.

and depending on what software you're using if you can adjust your break points you can give up someofthe low vacum areas that aren'tused and utilize them for added resolution in the boost cells

im using dsmlink v3 full to tune with
 
16x 16 setup of cells although notthe resolution we are now use to is still quite capable. Just keep in mind that the ECU interpolates values between the cells surrounding it when you're not fully into a visually represented load vs. rpm cell.

The old ACcell DFI systems were the same way and althoughrather cruse by todays standards they powred many a5 liter drag mustangs to low 9 second1/4 milesand faster as well as poweringthe rousche turbo 4 cylinder SVO mustangs in their road racing championships. basically as long asyou tune the cells you're given properly the interpolated values in between should be just fine unless for somereason you have weird spike or change/problem with the engines' VE at certain low throttle operations

Were thinking of different things here. I'm talking about the actual analog to digital converter, what takes the 0-5v from the map sensor and converts it into an 8bit binary number that the ecu understands. so it only has 256 numbers to represent all manifold pressures from -15-XXpsi based on how many bar your map is. Somthing tells me that the real SD computers are 16bit on the map sensor which is 65,000 numbers. The oem dsm ecu's were never meant to be SD, so they didn't need as good of resolution on the baro sensor.

My dads mustang has an accel gen 4 on it, so I'm very familiar with that setup and its "limited" maps. Lol, that shit was cutting edge in 1992 when he bought it! You ought to see the setup it runs! http://powertour.net/04_community_05_tour_2009/June10/IMG_4140.jpg
 
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