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Is this head repairable?

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shockey1013

10+ Year Contributor
118
1
Sep 21, 2008
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Below is the picture of my cylinder head. Do you all think it is repairable? If so, do you know someone who can repair it?

Background behind it...I have custom age 625 head studs with OEM MLS head gasket. While I was replacing the camshafts I decided to check the torque on my head studs to ensure they were still torqued to spec. Apparently you are not supposed to do this, the torque procedure is a one time deal. Since the motor had fluid in it, and water does not compress, I pressed water into the layers of the head gasket. Well, upon running it at the track, coolant passed head gasket and this is the outcome. My radiator also expanded out due to the pressure.
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Yeah that can be fixed. Question is, if it's been milled multiple times, you might be passed the service limit. Take it to a decent machine shop and they can measure it and if within specs, weld it and then they will pressure test it and mill it back to flat.
 
What do you mean?
How did you check the torque? Did you loosen each stud, one at a time and torque them to spec? Did you loosen all of them at once, and retorque? Or, did you not loosen them at all, and just make sure the torque was right with a torque wrench? If you loosened them one at a time, it's pretty much impossible for the gasket to leak without the engine being run. The total clamping force of the studs is over 100,000lbs. Lowering that to 90,000, and increasing the span of not having clamp load won't make a gasket under no pressure leak, as long as both surfaces were flat to begin with.

Also, you are right liquids don't compress. But, they don't get trapped between layers of a mls gasket. If liquid was introduced between layers, it would be squeezed out either into the cylinder, back into a passage, or completely out the edge of the gasket.
 
I didn't loosen any of them. Since I was installing my cams I though "I should check to ensure my head studs are still torqued to spec". So, I set my torque wrench to 100ft/lb and checked all the studs. Apparently your not supposed to recheck the studs, especially when there is oil and water in the motor. Anyways, what's done is done. Just need to get this head fixed.
 
I didn't loosen any of them. Since I was installing my cams I though "I should check to ensure my head studs are still torqued to spec". So, I set my torque wrench to 100ft/lb and checked all the studs. Apparently your not supposed to recheck the studs, especially when there is oil and water in the motor. Anyways, what's done is done. Just need to get this head fixed.
Doing what you did had no effect on the head gasket at all. Odds are the new cams changed combustion patterns and some detonation took out the gasket.
 
Funny thing is, this just happened to me a couple months ago.

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My machine shop said it was due to uneven fuel distribution. I was also running it very lean, but ran the car anyways as it was the finals. The knock sensor did not pick up any noise either, so I HIGHLY doubt your head stud retorque hurt anything.

If you need a machine shop to fix it, I have a damn good one out here on the west coast I go to. This was a curt brown head that I wanted fixed. Definitely easier spending half on repairs, vs what a new head costs.
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So this is the failed HG. Are the areas where the black is gone where it was leaking?!?!
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A "torched" head is usually caused by a lean condition. The high cylinder pressure and high temperature actully blows through the aluminum like a torch which is where the term comes from. The flame front finds the path of least resistance.
 
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