Is line honing needed with ARP main studs?

[steel_3d]

Simple question. Is it needed? Is it ok with stock torque? Will the mains stay round with higher than stock torque?

 

[project_tsi]

Line Honing IMO w/ ARP mains is needed. Its cheap insuruance for your block. My line honing cost me $140.

 

[90turbotsi]

Id strongly suggest it, its just not worth taking the risk.

 

[steel_3d]

I'm trying to avoid taking my block to the machine shop. That's just bound to inflate the overall cost in no time, PLUS it's another time sink, plus it's a hassle. I have to get this engine up and running before I run out of cash. Not to mention that I don't trust any shop to not #### something up more than help (good example is why I'm rebuilding a freshly rebuilt engine).

Planning on a 2.3 stroker. Since I'm building a fun street engine for not much over 400hp, I should be fine with the stock bolts?

 

[project_tsi]

Planning on a 2.3 stroker. Since I'm building a fun street engine for not much over 400hp, I should be fine with the stock bolts?

Generally Yes.

 

[blue1]

If you have access to a good bore guage and a good straight edge you can measure for your self to see if it does distort your bearing tunnel. I did line hone mine just for peace of mind.

 

[GTM]

Simple question. Is it needed? Is it ok with stock torque? Will the mains stay round with higher than stock torque?

I too have a simple question. Exactly what is going to be done with a hone? I have bored a few blocks for cams and cranks not to mention a head or two along with a few propeller shafts that were 7' long so I need to be brought up to speed.

I can give you a contact name at ARP who cheated me out of a set of studs after I provided them with a week's worth of data. Lying AH and you can tell him I said so. I think they will tell you that as long as you stay within 10% of the torque value you should have no problem. However if the engine has gone through a melt down then it must be checked and this ain't gonna be done with a hone. Maybe someone can tell me the name of hone that will hold center over 2' so I can put it on my wish list.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[steel_3d]

No meltdown here, just a head gasket failure that's a good excuse to stroke it, while I'm halfway there anyway.

Can you guys tell me where I can find a "good" bore gauge? And a straight edge also. What is the straight edge used for when checking main distortion?

I see some bore gauges on ebay. Can the simple T style ones be used, or do I need one with a built-in dial?

 

[GTM]

No meltdown here, just a head gasket failure that's a good excuse to stroke it, while I'm halfway there anyway.

Can you guys tell me where I can find a "good" bore gauge? And a straight edge also. What is the straight edge used for when checking main distortion?

I see some bore gauges on ebay. Can the simple T style ones be used, or do I need one with a built-in dial?

Good professional tools are going to make a significant dent in your pocketbook, my observations on eBay are many are overbid though you may still find some good deals. You need to be an informed buyer, you don't want to buy tools that have been abuse or played with by kids. Again, different schools of thought and application with T handle or micrometer types. You will have to transfer your measurment with the T handle which can lead to errors if you are not skilled at repeat measurments. If you expect to do this more than once in the future then owning your own tools does give you some assurance of a quality job. You should be able to find testing points in the factory manual.

You may find some good deals in the Recycler, recycler.com since you are here in LA. Another alternative is Harbor Freight harborfreight.com. They have locations in Lomita, 110 freeway-exit PCH West 2 miles, East Pasadena 210 and about 1/2 mile from freeway. Mail order purchases ship free if over $50 but I rarely use this service.
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The straight edge will be used just as it is on the top of the block. Use brass feeler gages on machined bearing surfaces so you don't scratch them. Draw a picture of the engine top and bottom, then write your findings at each location.

If your head gasket came off clean without tearing you can use it or find a good used one though you can omit it. (different schools of thought on this aspect)

You will want to torque the head and the mains to specs and then check the bottom end again while it's under load.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[blue1]

Mine was done with a sunnen line bore/ hone machine, cost of machine $36,000 ( keep wishing) not just a hand held hone if thats what i think you are getting at. Because you have me confused with boring cranks and tailshafts. Mitotoyo bore guage (dial type) but these are expensive thats why i said if you access (lend) would be a good option!