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installing ebay mbc

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dale187

10+ Year Contributor
292
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Jun 28, 2008
Dover, Delaware
Well just wanted everyone to know i got my kevdiver chip with eprom and WORKS grea. Now its time to raise the boost to where i want it. Just quick question i have a mbc that im confused on. If someone could tell me exactly how to wire this one that would be great. Picture of the controller is attached. I'm confused about the T that comes with it. Anyone plesE?
 

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I bought one like that and it never worked right. I then got a cheapo ebay one that was just a brass piece and worked great.
 
Is the tee totally open through all 3 legs, or is it a valve of some sort? Do the instructions say anything about it at all? If you are using your bov vac line as your boost source you'll need a tee, so if that one's not blocked by a valve, then you are fine. If it is, then just go buy a 50 cent tee and use it instead.

If you have a dedicated boost-only source (the best way to install an mbc), you won't need the tee. Just run from your boost source to the lower nipple on the mbc, and out the top nipple to the wastegate actuator.

EDIT: If this is a ball and spring type mbc then what I said applies. If it's a bleeder style, then follow snowboarder714's link.
 
I tried one of them it came with my knockoff bov and it's junk never worked right as stated above. You would be better off with a 2$ fish tank valve IMO. If you don't want to spend much the brass ebay one from what I understand is the same as the diy mbc or go hallman or joe p. they are cheap enough as it is.
 
Seriously man, Do not install that Cheap china made MBC, just spend the extra bucks and get a Real one, recommend Hallman, Trust me, you do not want to Have to rebuild your engine due to this cheap little thing. Im telling you from experience. That t has a difference, I've tried to install it with the t, and without. With the t, it would give me little to no boost, without the t, Crap would give me around 20+, even though you play around with it, It will just give you a headache in the end. I bought a hallman, the day it came was the day my engine went.
 
Try hooking it up per Snowboarder714's picture, that is the proper way to hook up a bleeder style.
Many people hook these up incorrectly like ball/spring mbcs and then they don't work
 
i just hooked the mbc controller exactly how the diagram says and it does not boost any more than it was before, No matter where the knob is adjusted too.. There was no nipple on the turbo compressor so i hooked it to an intake nipple is this sufficient? Anyone have any ideas? I would think even if the controller was faulty you should see some difference
 
No matter how i adjust it in or out there is no difference. Constant 9 psi. How does it still know to hold 9psi i dont understand.

should the BCS connector be disconnected? Because its still pluged in.. Also i turned the T around and it spiked to 18-20 psi i didnt smashed the throttle i eased into it...So i know it was hooked up right.
 
If this is a bleeder style mbc, then follow the link given by snowboarder 714. They do not connect the way ball/spring type mbc's do.

If it is a ball/spring type, then follow my second paragraph, which is to use a direct and dedicated boost-only source for the feed line. If you HAVE to use the tee/bov line method, and it is a ball/spring type, then make sure air flows freely through each leg of the tee you got in the kit. If it does not, then pick one up at a hardware store for like 50 cents, place it in line with the bov, and run your mbc feed off that. Whether you tee it or use a dedicated source, the output of the mbc goes to the wastegate actuator.

Click here for ball/spring type installation.
 
Then everything is hooked up right and no difference knob in or at constant 9psi. Here is a question could i possibly get rid of the restrictor plug tee and then hook the waste gate directly to the boost controller then hook the compressor vacuum line to the other nipple on the boost controller.. Wouldnt it still work just opposite.. Turning the knob out turns boost down and in turns boost up?
 
Nope. It's the ball/spring inside that type which restricts the airflow, and allows you to run a higher boost.

In the bleeder type, you have to release some air in order to control boost, since it does not have the mechanical restriction which the ball/spring provides. Without that bleed, set up like you just suggested, you will either be spiking and settling back to wastegate psi as pressure on both sides of the valve equalizes (if the adjustment is open only a little), going straight to wastegate pressure (if it's open roughly halfway or more), or running with the wastegate closed all the time and overboosting (if it's closed off). There's seemingly no happy medium, and definitely no way to control boost without setting it up like snoboarder's link shows. A bleeder style basically provides you with a controlled leak to the wastegate actuator, and taking that step out will render it a closed system with no control.
 
I have one just like that installed on my TSI. I'll try and attach the picture as well. But the TEE, goes inline from the Jpipe to the Wastegate. The 3rd or middle outlet on the TEE goes to the top of bottom nipple on the MBC and the top one gets vented to atmosphere. I have had mine running 15PSI all last year up to today no prob's.. It took some emailing the company from Ebay to get the set up, but it works a charm. I know the ""real"" MBC's hook up differently, but until I start getting issues with this one, I'm happy with it.:D
 

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Seriously man, Do not install that Cheap china made MBC, just spend the extra bucks and get a Real one, recommend Hallman, Trust me, you do not want to Have to rebuild your engine due to this cheap little thing. Im telling you from experience. That t has a difference, I've tried to install it with the t, and without. With the t, it would give me little to no boost, without the t, Crap would give me around 20+, even though you play around with it, It will just give you a headache in the end. I bought a hallman, the day it came was the day my engine went.

I just have one question if you were seeing 20+psi why didnt you just run it from the compressor housing to the WGA? I woudnt blame a product on user error. IMO I am calling your bluff. Either way you COULD have removed the supposedly "cheap china made" product and save the engine. :tease:


Kolby
 
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