installing ebay mbc

[dale187]

Well just wanted everyone to know i got my kevdiver chip with eprom and WORKS grea. Now its time to raise the boost to where i want it. Just quick question i have a mbc that im confused on. If someone could tell me exactly how to wire this one that would be great. Picture of the controller is attached. I'm confused about the T that comes with it. Anyone plesE?

 

[dale187]

Well check this out im getting rid of this bleeder type and going with a standard ball/spring

Turbo XS - WRX, STi, EVO SRT4, Subaru, Mitsubishi, Turbo, Turbocharged

thats the link

Its the top one on the list.. The only concern i have is what is the bleed valve they are talkintg about and whats it used for. And has anyone heard anything good about this boost controller?

 

[LKWTSI]

Nevermind i think i got what you did. The middle of the TEE that is not inline goes to the nipple on the MBC that has the arrow? Then the other bleeds off to the intake?

Not quite.. the top nipple on the MBC I just put a piece of tube on it and it vents to the engine bay. The direction of the arrows is on the T ( from the jpipe to the tee to the wastegate) inline basically. The 3 nipple on the T points to the MBC and goes to the bottom of the MBC the top atmosphere.

OR go ahead and spend the money and get the one you linked in your previous post. ALL the manual boost controllers are essentially bleed valves of some sort. That's how they work, bleeds of the pressure the wastegate sees before it opens allowing it to stay closed longer.

 

[jrohner]

ALL the manual boost controllers are essentially bleed valves of some sort. That's how they work, bleeds of the pressure the wastegate sees before it opens allowing it to stay closed longer.

No they aren't. The other boost controllers close and don't allow pressure to even go to the wastegate until whatever PSI you have it set for.

 

[snowborder714]

dale, why not get a Hallman? If you're going to spend that kind of money, might as well get one that has been proven time and time again.

I'm not saying the Turbo XS won't work. I don't believe too many people on here run it, and it looks to be a pretty big unit compared the Hallman.

 

[dale187]

Not quite.. the top nipple on the MBC I just put a piece of tube on it and it vents to the engine bay. The direction of the arrows is on the T ( from the jpipe to the tee to the wastegate) inline basically. The 3 nipple on the T points to the MBC and goes to the bottom of the MBC the top atmosphere.

OR go ahead and spend the money and get the one you linked in your previous post. ALL the manual boost controllers are essentially bleed valves of some sort. That's how they work, bleeds of the pressure the wastegate sees before it opens allowing it to stay closed longer.

I'm still still confused by your wording... The part that goes to the intake to bleed off instead of that you have it just bleeding into atmosphere with an open hose correct? Then the other nipple on the MBC you have running to the 3rd nipple on the TEE? Then the other 2 are running from boost source to wastegate inline with arrow to wastegate?

 

[dale187]

I want a Hallman dont get me wrong but there is a big track day friday and i wanna go by then.. They dont promise it will be here by thursday afternoon. Plus if this doesnt work i can just return it its at a local parts store here.

 

[jrohner]

I don't see what's so complicated about a MBC, especially a bleed style one. It's not difficult at all if you understand how boost control works. Basically: if your boost is not high enough, you are not bleeding off enough pressure. If it's too high, you are bleeding off too much.

You can easily do this without any MBC at all, by just running a T with nothing on it (or a hose off the T to your intake pipe). I've done this successfully on more than 1 car. My talon (14B, pretty stock) is at a solid and consistant 20 psi with no MBC. My friend's car we've had at many different boost levels with no MBC and we even have a switch to change boost on the fly using the stock BCS (he's FWD, so it's quite useful for taking off). I actually like doing it this way; the boost always seems very consistent and does not spike. All you have to do is replace the stock T with one that flows more, or add an additional T; you'll probably only get around 15psi using just the stock T even with no hose or anything on it. The disadvantage is you don't have a screw to change or fine tune your boost, but once you have it set why change it all the time anyways.

 

[dale187]

See no matter how i have it hooked up the correct way or a way i think it should work it reads 9psi the whole time. Then one way i had it hooked it spiked to 20psi you could hear the turbo louder and everything there was just no change in power at all... Explain that to me please? Sorry im being complicated just trying to know how everything works

 

[jrohner]

See no matter how i have it hooked up the correct way or a way i think it should work it reads 9psi the whole time. Then one way i had it hooked it spiked to 20psi you could hear the turbo louder and everything there was just no change in power at all... Explain that to me please? Sorry im being complicated just trying to know how everything works

Try just your stock T, with a hose from it to your intake pipe, no BCS. You should be at 14-15 psi that way. You could also try that T from the kit this way, but be careful getting on the throttle because who knows how much boost it will run.

On the T with the kit, have the biggest/least restricted opening go to the MBC.

 

[dale187]

Ok ill try that. If i do go this route with the new one, all i have to do is hook up to boost source and to waste gate and close off the nipple on my intake piping and i should be able to just adjust boost right away? What about my boost source, its not a direct source its TEEd off with the BOV. But that is the same boost source i was using with the stock BCS

Also any idea why the turbo was spooling 18-20psi and no difference in power? I'm confused about that. I also noticed i took my blowoff valve off the intake piping because i was curious what it sounded like open and i closed the intake piping iwth my hand as someone reved the car and the blowoff sound still came from the intake as if it was inside and nothing from the BOV

 

[95GSXCO]

You should have just got this one instead NXS MANUAL BOOST CONTROLLER 280Z TURBO WRX 240SX GAUGE:eBay Motors (item 260296813451 end time Jun-03-09 09:47:53 PDT) This guys stands behind his stuff! Lifetime warranty, not to mention if you lose any parts to it just email him and he will send them to you for free! I see now he even has a 30 day trial run so what do you have to loose?

 

[jrohner]

Also any idea why the turbo was spooling 18-20psi and no difference in power?

Maybe you're knocking and pulling a ton of timing.

You should fill out your profile with your full car details. I don't see how you could boost 20psi on an Evo3 16G with just exhaust and no other mods. Fuel cut!!!

 

[dale187]

Sorry yea i should. I have a 95 epromed chipped and socketed tuned to 550s so i should be good with 18psi. Full 3" exhaust. I'm pretty sure that is sufficient for 18psi. And i have a 255 with aeromotive afpr... And my knocksum gauge was not counting any knock at all when it was boosting.

 

[jrohner]

Using the boost gauge converted to knock? Can you log it to confirm though?

 

[dale187]

I dont have a logger right now.. Your right about that i should log it ### it could not be working properly but wouldnt i feel the power still if there was knock? And what about the BOV problem? Any idea on that ?

 

[matthewdesigns]

Well check this out im getting rid of this bleeder type and going with a standard ball/spring

Turbo XS - WRX, STi, EVO SRT4, Subaru, Mitsubishi, Turbo, Turbocharged

thats the link

Its the top one on the list.. The only concern i have is what is the bleed valve they are talkintg about and whats it used for. And has anyone heard anything good about this boost controller?

All ball/spring mbc's will use a bleed hole at most boost levels above stock to ensure best response. It allows the vac line b/t the mbc and wastegate actuator to release any pressure that would otherwise be trapped, potentially causing the flapper to stay open too long. I've just drilled mine out a bit to help reduce boost spike on my car. My mbc came with an inline fitting that had the hole drilled in it, some have a hole in the fitting on the wga side of the controller.

 

[zander92talon]

I just have one question if you were seeing 20+psi why didnt you just run it from the compressor housing to the WGA? I woudnt blame a product on user error. IMO I am calling your bluff. Either way you COULD have removed the supposedly "cheap china made" product and save the engine.


Kolby

Its not users error, I used Vfaq & couple of other Diagrams that I found Right here on DSMTuners. I took it of and installed it about 4 different times, with couple different diagrams, & why would I bluff? It is a crap china made product, that T they include has a difference. It does not work right so For me trying to be cheap Learned the hard way.

 

[dale187]

Ok cool. So like i asked before dont think i got a response with this new ball/spring boost controller it should just be 1 2 3 bam right? WGA to MBC. Boost source to MBC. And block off the relief nipple that was to the BCS and thats it?

 

[matthewdesigns]

Relief nipple...the one on the pre-turbo intake pipe? If so, yes. Everything else sounds right for a ball/spring type, too. Just make sure you connect the lines to the correct ports on the mbc and you should be golden.

 

[LKWTSI]

I'm still still confused by your wording... The part that goes to the intake to bleed off instead of that you have it just bleeding into atmosphere with an open hose correct? Then the other nipple on the MBC you have running to the 3rd nipple on the TEE? Then the other 2 are running from boost source to wastegate inline with arrow to wastegate?

You got it

 

[dsmter]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...l-turbosmart-tee-style-bleeder-style-mbc.html

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This can help too. Thank you.