installed fic 650's

[Dert]

So I installed fic 650's today, did basic tune, got afr's close to 11.1 @ around 19-20 psi of boost,still have a little knock to get rid of, I want to run 22-23psi but everytime I turn it up I get crazy knock. My timing is already low as is, most of it being 7-10 deg and everything I read says aim for high teens ,low 20's. What do I need to do to advance timing like that and not get knock? right now my car feels no different than it did stock with the t25 on it mods are PR fmic, ported evo316g, ported megan racing o2 housing, 3"megan downpipe and "catback" exhaust, exedy stage 2 racing clutch, prolite lightweight flywheel, fic 650cc injectors, 190lph waly, apexi air intake, greddy type rs bov, aem uego wideband, ecmlink v3lite...any help is greatly appreciated

 

[Gstclipse69]

Have you checked the plugs/gap? Ngk's 6's, 7's?

 

[gofer]

First things first before I even get into the WOT portion of the log, where is your WB installed? In your ECU Inputs you've got it in the rear o2 but you've enabled the NBO2 Sim why? You only need to simulate the NBO2 signal if your WB is in the front o2 location, if its in the rear the front o2 will operate like normal so no sim. is required. I hope you don't get upset with me but I do think you need to redo your idle/cruise tuning, then worry about WOT after everything else is squared away. Watch these two demo videos ECU-Initial Setup/ECU-Fuel Trim, the reason I say that is because your MAFComp sliders don't look right. If you need help getting it setup just post an idle log after the cars warmed up logging AirflowPerRev and CombinedFT and I can help you with it if you don't understand the demos.

Moving onto your WOT log... Zero your fuel and timing sliders in your Config Settings and you need to reset you direct access (DA) OpenLoopThresholds and TmngMaxOct to stock, just right click and click the "Reset to stock" option. You should also reset your STFTandO2Feedback o2 feedback adjustment rate to stock also, again if your front o2 sensor is still installed and your put the WB in the rear location this doesn't need adjusted.

• What type of fuel are you using, 91 or 93 octane?
• I didn't notice cams in your mod list you posted but do you have cams?
• Wheres your wideband sensor installed, front or rear o2? and if its the rear have you removed your catalytic converter?

If you take care of the above, or at least answer it, then post (3) logs so we can look at them and help it would be a lot easier to tell you have everything looks. When a car first jumps up on the dyno the first 10 to 15 minutes are tuning the idle and cruise first so every things logging accurately.

... got afr's close to 11.1 @ around 19-20 psi of boost.

Your WB is logging in link that your AFR's are LEAN once it hits full boost, I see an 11.1:1 at 4k all the way to a 11.9:1 at 6.2k. I'm not sure what your seeing but thats not an 11:1 AFR like you said, the WB should be showing 10.8 ~ 11.1:1 at WOT.

 

[Dert]

First things first before I even get into the WOT portion of the log, where is your WB installed? In your ECU Inputs you've got it in the rear o2 but you've enabled the NBO2 Sim why? You only need to simulate the NBO2 signal if your WB is in the front o2 location, if its in the rear the front o2 will operate like normal so no sim. is required. I hope you don't get upset with me but I do think you need to redo your idle/cruise tuning, then worry about WOT after everything else is squared away. Watch these two demo videos ECU-Initial Setup/ECU-Fuel Trim, the reason I say that is because your MAFComp sliders don't look right. If you need help getting it setup just post an idle log after the cars warmed up logging AirflowPerRev and CombinedFT and I can help you with it if you don't understand the demos.

Moving onto your WOT log... Zero your fuel and timing sliders in your Config Settings and you need to reset you direct access (DA) OpenLoopThresholds and TmngMaxOct to stock, just right click and click the "Reset to stock" option. You should also reset your STFTandO2Feedback o2 feedback adjustment rate to stock also, again if your front o2 sensor is still installed and your put the WB in the rear location this doesn't need adjusted.

• What type of fuel are you using, 91 or 93 octane?
• I didn't notice cams in your mod list you posted but do you have cams?
• Wheres your wideband sensor installed, front or rear o2? and if its the rear have you removed your catalytic converter?

If you take care of the above, or at least answer it, then post (3) logs so we can look at them and help it would be a lot easier to tell you have everything looks. When a car first jumps up on the dyno the first 10 to 15 minutes are tuning the idle and cruise first so every things logging accurately.

Your WB is logging in link that your AFR's are LEAN once it hits full boost, I see an 11.1:1 at 4k all the way to a 11.9:1 at 6.2k. I'm not sure what your seeing but thats not an 11:1 AFR like you said, the WB should be showing 10.8 ~ 11.1:1 at WOT.

thanx for the reply, I didnt get upset at all with your post so no worries, I take constructive critisism well , as far as the idle settings, I followed the ecmlink details and demo videos, after I got that settled, I did a cruise log and used the mafcomp tool off that and thats what it gave me (1 or I adjusted to smooth out) the wb is in the rear location, using 91 octane with lucas octane booster, 30 points, so should bump octane to 94, the best gas we have here is husky 94 octane but it is 15% ethonal blend and I hear it burns dry) stftando2feedback o2 adjustment rate I adjusted because I read on ecmlink under a link for narrowband it stated if you use th rear sensor location the delay time the sensor reads is laggy, it will continuously read lean to rich over and over (wich mine was doing) it then stated to fix it I needed to go into that adjustment wich I did and put in the numbers it said to and that balanced the reading out a little better (bounced from 14.4-15.2) I think I may have an exhaust leak where my downpipe conect to the rest of the exhaust and the sensor would be after that leak, that would give inaccurate readings would it not? I'm guessing that is why there is such a dif between afr est and wb reading. No cams and no cat also thanx again for the reply, I'll reset everything and start over, its not really a big deal to me gotta learn somehow right! I'll post 3 logs for you tomorrow, thanx again

ok, so I reset everything like you said, but now with narrowband sim turned off my WB is reading lean (around 17) but the AFRest is right where it should be. Could this be from the exhaust leak? I'm pretty sure it is about 8 inches infront of the sensor so would that be causing the lean wb reading?Also the boost est is reading -23inhg but my gauge is -20, are they supposed to match? sorry for all the questions, I'm still trying to learn this tuning jazz, I will get some cruise logs later today after I look into the exhaust leak issue

So I got the exhaust leak fixed today, and did another idle log and a cruise log, let me know how it looks

 

[gofer]

Those idle and cruise AFR's look 10x better after you took care of that exhaust leak, you basically answered your own question. Your MAFComp still needs some work, maybe the low Hz ranges are good but you need to get some more closed loop cruising and hit some higher Hz ranges. To get a good log you'll want to go for a cruise on city streets and on the highway getting up to speed and getting into the throttle about 30% - 35% on the on ramps. You can also hit the higher Hz sliders if you know of a pretty good hill and go up it on your cruise log, this will increase the load on the car causing the car to go into boost without giving it much gas. Before you go on your 15 min cruise you'll want to go into your DA settings and into your OpenLoopThresholds tab. From there change the settings to reflect the below changes...

- AirflowOLThreshold1 and AirflowOLThreshold2 to 1.31 throughout the RPM band
- TPSOLThreshold to 49.8%​

After you do your log just right click it and select the MAFComp adjust option and smooth out the sliders just like you did before. Just be sure to go back into your DA OpenLoopThreshold tab and reset everything back to stock by selecting the "Reset" button in the bottom right corner of the window.

Now your ready to do a WOT pull and tune it out since idle/cruise has been tuned so the cars running like it should. I HIGHLY suggest running the lowest amount of boost you can by eliminating a boost controller and running off the wastegate. Since you have no MAP sensor you can't log actual boost and you'll want actual boost to reflect your logged BoostEst between 5k - 5.5k. This is why running boost off the wastegate helps since you know how lbs you can run off the wastegate without trying to watch your boost gauge while your WOT when you should be watching the road... Hope I didn't confuse you?

When you do a WOT 3rd gear pull go WOT at 2.5k and take it all the way to 7k, of course back of the throttle the second you see it KNOCK causing your CEL to flash. Post the log and let us know the amount of boost you were actually running from 5k to 5.5k too.

 

[Dert]

Those idle and cruise AFR's look 10x better after you took care of that exhaust leak, you basically answered your own question. Your MAFComp still needs some work, maybe the low Hz ranges are good but you need to get some more closed loop cruising and hit some higher Hz ranges. To get a good log you'll want to go for a cruise on city streets and on the highway getting up to speed and getting into the throttle about 30% - 35% on the on ramps. You can also hit the higher Hz sliders if you know of a pretty good hill and go up it on your cruise log, this will increase the load on the car causing the car to go into boost without giving it much gas. Before you go on your 15 min cruise you'll want to go into your DA settings and into your OpenLoopThresholds tab. From there change the settings to reflect the below changes...

- AirflowOLThreshold1 and AirflowOLThreshold2 to 1.31 throughout the RPM band
- TPSOLThreshold to 49.8%​

After you do your log just right click it and select the MAFComp adjust option and smooth out the sliders just like you did before. Just be sure to go back into your DA OpenLoopThreshold tab and reset everything back to stock by selecting the "Reset" button in the bottom right corner of the window.

Now your ready to do a WOT pull and tune it out since idle/cruise has been tuned so the cars running like it should. I HIGHLY suggest running the lowest amount of boost you can by eliminating a boost controller and running off the wastegate. Since you have no MAP sensor you can't log actual boost and you'll want actual boost to reflect your logged BoostEst between 5k - 5.5k. This is why running boost off the wastegate helps since you know how lbs you can run off the wastegate without trying to watch your boost gauge while your WOT when you should be watching the road... Hope I didn't confuse you?

When you do a WOT 3rd gear pull go WOT at 2.5k and take it all the way to 7k, of course back of the throttle the second you see it KNOCK causing your CEL to flash. Post the log and let us know the amount of boost you were actually running from 5k to 5.5k too.

Hey man thanx for all the extremely helpfull advice, I did my cruise log and used the mafcomp adjust tool the same way you stated to, but its hard to do a city cruise as the city I live in isnt all that big, (100,000 people) and it is extremly flat with a tonne of traffic lights. The only 2 hills that are here are heading out of the city or to the west side of the city and they are huge hills I dont think I have ever driven up them out of boost so this is going to be a challenge I'll see if I can get some vaccuum hose and disconect the mbc and run wastegate pressure. (i have my mbc secured pretty good right now and would probably be easier to just unhook the hoses off wastegate and boost source and put a new hose on than to pull it all out) thanx for your help, I'll work on the cruise log first and post that so I can know if I'm good to go with wot pull, thanx again for all the great info