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ECMlink Just installed 650's. Need tune for link

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tbonitz301

15+ Year Contributor
669
2
Jan 5, 2008
lonaconing, Maryland
Hey guys i just got done fixing all my boost leaks, and installing my fic 650's. I have global set to -31, and deadtime at 315. The car runs really slow. Im sure it just needs a tune. Heres my log of a third gear pull. I let out early cause it just wasnt pulling hard:(
 

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You didn't fix your knock sensor yet.:mad: Do the same thing we did before with the 50 hz slider then the 150hz slider. You need to fix the knock sensor though. That is contributing to making you car slower.
 
dsmlink,650's,big 16g,190 wally. A/F ratios were in the mid 13:1 range which i know is rich.Boost is at 16psi. Hey i did change the knock sensor it shows 3.2 whenever i pull out of my drive way when im not even getting on it. I mean this thing is ignorant slow. My girls slobalt would smoke me:sosad:And i also have made the adjustments to the airflow and its still the same
 
Something might be wrong with the knock sensor wiring. The ecu is not getting a signal for some reason. So it is going to the default setting which is making the car slower by pulling timing.
 
I'm almost positive the default for the knock sensor is 9 counts. I'm ready to get rid of that damn thing anyways.Lets forget about that knock sensor for a sec. here. How do i get my a/f ratio where i want it?
 
I'm almost positive the default for the knock sensor is 9 counts. I'm ready to get rid of that damn thing anyways.

I searched it on dsmlink forums. Everybody agrees that it means the ecu isn't getting a signal from the sensor and that 3.2 is the default. This could be due to a bad sensor, bad wiring, no/loose connection. I will copy paste a couple things from there in a second.
 
Isnt the knock reading adding knock,
Lets say if its seeing 9 counts, and it pulls 2 deg, still sees it, pulls 2 degrees.
how long does that go on?
I remember reading something about 9* or 11* being the max it could pull
 
I've checked it all its connected, and i have a new sensor in there. I'm turning it off. Help me tune.
 
A/F ratios were in the mid 13:1 range which i know is rich.Boost is at 16psi.

13:1 is lean not rich. The higher the number, the leaner it is. Try getting your fuel trims back in line first with the 50hz and 150hz sliders and then retune to get your a/f closer to 11:1 at wot. (Plus or minus, every car is different for what it likes). Then if it still doesn't feel any better. A quick way to check to see if it is your knock sensor, turn it off on dsmlink for a quick run to see if it improves. If it does, then it is your knock sensor. (Only do once tune is in order. If you do it like the way it is now, then you will knock your motor to death from being too lean). Could also be if your base timming is off, this can make your car sluggish too.

Good luck!
 
yea i really dont know what i was thinkin when i said rich?I've done the maf comp. how do i get mey a/f ratio back in check
 
From Dave(onne of the makers of dsmlink)

"I think your knock sensor is dead, or at least the ECU isn't seeing its signal. Check for a DTC0325. If present, the ECU uses a fixed 3.2 degrees of knock retard. Knock retard is only active above 2200 rpm or so, which is why the value switches from 0 to 3.2 where it does.

Dave"

From Thomas (maker of dsmlink)

"That's a classic sign that the ECU has flagged the knock sensor as bad. If you've replaced the sensor, then either the wiring or the ECU itself (less likely) has developed a problem. Have you buzzed out the schematic to make sure all the basics are there?

Thomas Dorris"

From Dave again

"If you add RawKnock1 through 4 to your captured values and grab another log, I suspect it will show a dead knock sensor. This should be triggering a knock-sensor DTC."

Thomas again

"Knock sensor code plus constant knock retard equals something wrong with the knock sensor or the connection between the knock sensor and the ECU.

Thomas Dorris"

Dave again

"That indicates a nonfunctional knock sensor. You will find a knock-sensor DTC set unless you have its DTC-check disabled (which is generally not the thing to do). Make sure you are using a good 2G knock sensor.

Dave"

Thomas again

"Yes, that's an indication that the ECU does not like your knock sensor signal for some reason or other. It's either disconnected or disfunctional in some other way.

Thomas Dorris"

Dave again

"A knock value stuck at 3.2 degrees indicates that the ECU is hearing nothing from the sensor. If it's a new sensor, it seems that it is not connected to the ECU (also make sure it's a 2G sensor)."

Dave again

"means that the ECU is hearing nothing from the knock sensor (either a problem with the sensor, the wiring or the ECU).

Dave"

Some other member

"A constant 3.2 means your ecu is not seeing a signal from the knock sensor. Check the wiring/plug."

Jeffgst

"The infamous 3.2 Degrees of Knock Sensor Death.

Just place the number "3.2" in the search button and you will find a ton of information.

3.2 Degrees of knock is the figure that tells you that the ECU is not reading any signal from the knock sensor. Either the wire is disconnected or the KS is damaged"

Jeffgst

"Search the number "3.2" and you will get tons of threads reagarding knock sensor problems.

3.2 Degrees of knock is the default number that the ECU uses when there is no signal from the knock sensor to the ECU. Either your knock sensor is unplugged or there is a short or disconnection in the knock sensor wire."
 
i would run new wires to the knock sensor from the ECU. It's not that hard to pull 2 wires through and it's better than just "turning it off". Have you read JEFGST's page on setting up DSMlink for it's basic calinration? there's good info on that site.

Get your AFR's in the 11's some where (11.0 - 11.5 preferably) and get that knock sensor working.

I don't know really what to help you with until those things are done, keep us updated.
 
Are the two wires coming from the knock sensor red/black?I know the one coming from the ecu is white(pin78), but the sensor has a red wire and black wire leading to the plug, and then it is white and black from there on out. Is the black wire just a ground? Should i check it before i run a new white wire?
 
If you set the Props for the A/F correctly (650's not 450's...) you will see that your A/F is right around 9.5:1 which is right where it should be on the stock tune.

Its the Knock that is killing the timing that is making the car feel like a Dog.
 
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