Resolved installed 1g bov in 2g eclipse now have several issues

[TurboSpider]

OK I installed 1 Gen bov today on my 97 eclipse, I also install an aftermarket boost gauge. With the stock 2nd gen BOV installed the car would make 15 psi max. After installing the 1st generation BOV the car would go all the way up to 20 psi which is where the boost gauge maxes out. After installing the 1st gen



BOV the car has gained a lot more top and and power it drives almost like a new vehicle now. However, Once the car hits 20 psi it feels like the car hit a brick wall. Sometimes a backfiring type sound is heard from possibly in the intake. As far as I know the car has a stock boost controller and everything else besides the intake is stock. I recirculated the blow off valve using the same rubber hose that connected the second gen BOV. Everything seems to be tight as far as I can tell. Also I noticed when the car is revved up slightly or when pulling up to a stop sign and the rpms are dropping a high pitched whistling sound can be heard coming from the intake. I disconnected the rubber hose that recirculates the blow off valve to the air intake and just reved it slightly not much at all and it appears the whistling sound is coming from the blow off valve it's not the sound of the whoosh sound that it normally makes but a high pitched whistle that happens for about a second as the idle drops. If I let off the throttle before it gets to 20 psi and feather the throttle to keep it below 20 psi it doesn't cut out and it runs fine under normal driving conditions. It seems like the problem is it is developing too much boost is it experiencing fuel cut or something else what would cause it to be boosting up to 20 psi stock without a boost controller or anything like that.

 

[rough]

Bypass the MBC and just hook the turbo directly up to the waste gate.

See if that problem still happens, if it does, you know it's more then likely the waste gate.

 

[TurboSpider]

Well just got home and looked under, it appears there is a stock diwnpipe, stock coverter, what looks like a reasonator after the converter, that then it appears the muffler xonnects there is another reasonator closer to the muffler and than the aftermarket muffler. So everything but the bolt on mhffler is stock exhausr wise

 

[TurboSpider]

Going to check othrr things you guys recommended after i am done exercising

 

[TurboSpider]

Ok guys, I may have figured it out. Long read so prepare yourself. I jacked the car up and looked underneath. The exhaust is definitely stock except for the muffler. I disconnected the wastegate actuator from the o2 housing by removing the c clip and pulling it away. I noticed I can move the piece on the o2 housing that the actuator moves by hand, however if I open it too far, it kinda jams up. I have to tap on it with a hammer to get it unstuck if I open it all the way. This I don't think is a problem normally as the actuator doesn't seem to open it that far anyways and if it was to get stuck in that position, the wastegate would constantly be open and I would never be building 20 +psi of pressure or anything for that matter.

With the linkage disconnected I pulled on the actuator rod. It is stiff but moves out when I pulled on it with my hand. I then installed a rubber elbow fitting over the pressure nipple on the wastegate actuator. I turned my compressor down to like 20 psi (according to the gauge) I pumped pressure using an air chuck pushed into the rubber elbow into the actuator rod and it moved slightly but not much at all. I turned the pressure up a little above 20 according to the gauge on the air compressor which I not sure is very accurate to begin with. Now the actuator rod would extend further.

I decided to hook the linkage back up and see how much it moves the linkage when I pressurize it with the compressor It moved it slightly however it didn't seem like it was moving it far enough. I looked at the actuator, and I am not sure if it was supposed to be like this or not, but I noticed it looked like the entire actuator was bent down towards the ground instead of being up higher or more straighter. I figured if I was to bend the actuator bracket up slightly, that would make the actuator sit more straighter which in turn would align the linkage better and therefore possibly give the actuator rod more travel to open the wastegate more.

After pulling on the actuator and bending the bracket so it was more straight, I pressurized the actuator again with the air chuck. This time, the linkage opened on the o2 housing more then it did before, and I could actually hear the air from the air chuck start passing through the exhaust down pipe once it opened up further.

I throw everything back together and take it for a test run. After letting it warm up, I trample it, boost gauge goes up closish to 15 (probably around 12-13 but hard to look at the gauge and the road at the same time) but no higher. No more 20+ psi pressure and no more fuel cut. I did this several times and it appears the gauge never moves above 13-14 psi. The boost seems consitant and the car runs good.

I am sure this makes the turbo and the engine more happy, however the car is a lot more slower than it was with the 20+ psi of boost it was making. I will miss that but will get to enjoy the car more now that I don't have to worry about letting off the throttle before it spiked up to 20.

So bottom line is, atleast for now the issue seems to be fixed. Not sure if it was taking the linkage off, cleaning it up and lubing stuff up that fixed it or if it was me bending the wastegate bracket up to maybe where it was supposed to be?

 

[Maes]

Good job getting it fixed man

 

[TurboSpider]

Well so far the boost still isnt getting over 15 however i took it for a long drive and it did buck under boost a couple of times. When it bucks the boost is normally around 14-15. It is not nearly as violent of a buck as it did at 20 though. I took it on a half hour drive and it only did it once then. Seems random
. since its doing it sometimes at 15 or lower boost i imagine it isnt fuel cut. Wonder if there is a leak somewhere or something. I will pressure test it tomorrow. Also apparently i messed up the speedometer somehow. It works fine under normal driving conditons however as soon as i get on it and build boost the gauge fluctuations like crazy and some
times goes down to 0 mph. I did spray the underside of the engine with degreaser to try and trouble shoot an oil leak. Guess i soaked something i shouldnt have

 

[gofer]

Probably a boost leak do a boost leak test (BLT) and (if you haven't) replace/gap your spark plugs (NGK BPR6ES/0.028") and it should clear up the bucking.

 

[Mauispyder]

boost gauge goes up closish to 15 (probably around 12-13 but hard to look at the gauge and the road at the same time

And that's why I don't like the boost gauge in the cigarette lighter!

 

[TurboSpider]

i wonder if the speedometer acting weird cause the jerk. maybe the ecu thinks the car is going faster or slower than it really is and it messes something up. I will do a boost leak test tomorrow and see what happens

 

[TurboSpider]

Ok i ran a blt and first air was coming iut the hose thwt goes from the valve cover gasket to the air intake tube. I bent the hose over jammed something in the end and zip tied it over. Now it appears the valve cover gasket is leaking on the passenger side behind the thermostat housing. I remember when I did the valve cover gasket the other week it is the part that had like a half moon. There is some kinda metal box that hooks to the valve cover and has and sensor coming off of the box. Well it its leaking here. I am not sure if I have to tighten the valve cover in this corner more or what

 

[TurboSpider]

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[TurboSpider]

Its leaking in between the valve cover and that box thats in the picture there

 

[19Eclipse90]

The "box" is your CAS. There is a seal between the cover plate being held on by those three bolts, an o-ring for the sensor on the intake side of the housing, and there should be RTV between the housing itself and the head.

See:
http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2383611&postcount=9
oil in CAS

 

[TurboSpider]

I already pulled the cover plate off, there was a little bit of oil inside. Should i remove the bolts holding this cas onto the engine, clean the back side of it and put some rtv on or is that link yelling me to pill the valve cover off and put rtv on it nesr the cas and reinstall? I am confused. I will also look to see if autozone has a replacement gasket for this.

 

[19Eclipse90]

Remove the bolt holding the CAS to the intake cam, take the housing off, and reseal it. That includes removing the three bolts and the cover in order to get to that bolt.

If you replaced the valve cover gasket "the other week", I'm assuming it was done correctly and the CAS housing is more likely to be the issue. If sealing the CAS properly with RTV doesn't work, then yeah, replace the valve cover gasket again.

 

[TurboSpider]

Ok i took care of that by fixing it the way you said, also out some rtv on the bov gasket as that was also leaking. Now i am experiencing a leak on the phillips screw that goes into the throttle body. Also sounds like it it leaking aomewhere near or under the intake but csnt find thst one

 

[TurboSpider]

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[TurboSpider]

Also found out the one injector is also leaking where is goes to the intake

 

[Type1DSMr]

Check out extremepsi.com. They have fuel injectors oem seals include upper and lower for 14 dollars. They also have the biss screw and o-ring. I would also get new throttle body gaskets if you remove the throttle body.

 

[2gGst98]

First I'm glad to hear you found it and fixed it

The bucking is probably the plugs, if those are the only boost leaks. I'm pretty sure my boss screw is leaking also, and doesn't seem to cause any problems. I would get some new spark plugs (NGK bpr6es at .028) as gofer said. Would probably do wires at the same time. The car will enjoy it.

Welcome to the DSM trouble shooting haha

If you choose to rebuild your throttle body here is a good vid, I'm about to do mine as the shaft seals tend to leak a lot.

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[pauleyman]

There is no way you could hear any air being applied to the wastegate actuator coming out of your downpipe. Explain please.

 

[TurboSpider]

I dont know, i applied pressure to the wastegate with an airchuck and the wastegate linkage moved. I was underneath the vehicle near the down pipe and then
i heard the air start passing into the exhaust but maybe it wasnt if you say its not possible. Maybe i heard air echoing off somethinf idk. Either way i pulled the injectors put new o rings on the tops and rtv the bushings on the bottom like some people said about doing on here. Lrtting the rtv dey i also drained the oil. Oil looks good no milky color or anything which is extra good news for the mileage on the car.

 

[pauleyman]

What im getting at is the wastegate actuator is a closed system. If you applied air directly to it it shouldnt leak. You had no other t's in the line etc

 

[TurboSpider]

ok guys did some more testing and repairing. I got the fuel injector leak fixed and the throttle screw repaired so it doesn't leak. Also fixed the wonky speedometer as the connection to the speedometer sensor was intermittant due to a broken plastic tab that holds the hardness on the sensor. I had to get creative to get it to stay tight but so far it has been. I also noticed a boost leak on the underside of the intake manifold where it meets the block. The screw on that end was loose. Tightening it took care of that leak. The system will now get up to about 20 psi and then start dropping. You can basically watch the needle go down. I don't hear a hissing sound but can almost hear an air "moving" around the intake sound. Almost sounds like the noise an air compressor makes when you use it. You can hear the air moving in the tank. Like rushing sound. I sprayed the hell out of the intake manifold, injectors, bov, all IC pipes ect and cannot find anymore leaks. There is a spot on the right bottom side of the intake that I really can't see if it's bubbling or not because the starter is in the way, when underneath looking up. Any suggestions on what to check. BTW since fixing all the other stuff, it seems the bucking has gone away. Also boost still hasn't gone over 15 acording to the gauge and I haven't gotten fuel cut or anything so I am making progress. Thanks all for the help thusfar. My gut tells me it's probably leaking at the intake where I can't see it maybe. The strange thing is, I don't hear any leaks. Just air rushing sound. Also checked the throttle body and linkage and don't see any leaks there.

 

[Mauispyder]

Do you have your engine turned so that these no leakage past your valves? Your doing a great job btw.