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1G Idle position switch

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Do you mean the Throttle Position Sensor, the Idle Speed Controller, or the Trottle Position Switch?

I think you're referring to the TPS, because that's the only one that you can really "adjust".
So here's the link for that: http://www.plymouthlaser.com/tps.htm

let me know if that's not what you were referring to ;)
 
In the dealer manual it is referred to as the Idle position switch it is the sensor that sits on top of the throttle body and has one green wire running to it. So im guessing it would be called the Throttle Position Switch

what should the spacing be between the switch and the throttle cable pulley.

my TPS sensor has not been touched and the car was working fine then i got a weird idle surge cold start the car would go to 1300 like normal then when it would come close to 1000 or so it would start surging between 700-1000 and eventually stall unless i added gas. I removed the TPS switch and now the spacing is messed up so i need to know how to correctly install it.
 
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Matrixhunter said:
my TPS sensor has not been touched and the car was working fine then i got a weird idle surge cold start the car would go to 1300 like normal then when it would come close to 1000 or so it would start surging between 700-1000 and eventually stall unless i added gas. I removed the TPS switch and now the spacing is messed up so i need to know how to correctly install it.

I had the same problem I think. I just unplugged the plug on the closed throttle position switch (or whatever it's called) and it stopped surging. Haven't been able to figure out what's wrong with it yet, but it's still unplugged.
 
Matrixhunter said:
In the dealer manual it is referred to as the Idle position switch it is the sensor that sits on top of the throttle body and has one green wire running to it. So im guessing it would be called the Throttle Position Switch

The factory service manual tells you not to touch the IPS (Idle Position Switch also called the fixed SAS) because it has been precisely adjusted by the manufacturer. It then goes on to say that if you ignored them and messed with it that you should:

Loosen the throttle cable
Disconnector the IPS connector.
Loosen the lock nut.
Turn the IPS counter-clockwise until the throttle butterfly closes fully.
Connect a ohmmeter to the IPS terminal and the throttle body.
Turn the IPS clockwise until the IPS turns on (continuity) and continue turning the IPS 15/16 of a turn from thet point.
Tignten the lock nut.
Adjust the throttle cable.
Set the BISS.
Adjust the TPS.

This assumes we are talking about a 1G IPS.

Steve
 
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By the way, in the past, I have set my IPS to lose continuity the moment the throttle plate moves. It will not work that way. You have turn it just under a full turn, and make sure that it does not move when torquing the lock nut.

ie. do as steve says.
 
I'm running a 1G TB on my 2G right now, and I noticed the IPS is disconnected. However, I'm getting high and surging idle when it's not warmed up. So although it is disconnected, I'm assuming I could still adjust it to affect the idle? My first thought is that the FIAV is the culprit for my surge problem. Any ideas?
 
Well I'm not totally sure. The 1G TPS has 3-pins and the 2G has 4 right? I'll look tmw if I remember.

The 1G IPS is disconnected, the connector is bare on the firewall side of the TB.
 
Well I'm not totally sure. The 1G TPS has 3-pins and the 2G has 4 right?

The 1G IPS is disconnected, the connector is bare on the firewall side of the TB.

The "correct" way to do the swap is to leave the 1G IPS in place as the stop screw and continue to use the 2G TPS as normal. That doesn't require any wiring changes for the IPS on the 2G.

If yours was done that way it would explain why it surges since you have to see the IPS signal being pulled low before the ECU will perform any of the idling or deceleration functions, including checking for runaway idle speed that triggers surging.

And yes the 1G TPS has 3 pins and the 2G has 4. From 91 on they otherwise look identical.

Steve
 
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