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Idle and Accelerate issues...

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SubversionX

10+ Year Contributor
241
7
Jan 8, 2010
Virginia Beach, Virginia
So, I'm going to take a stab at this, as I'm out on deployment right now. I can only go off of how my car was acting as of May, and try to figure what might be going wrong with my car from there.:hmm:

I took my car to a few reputable mechanics who did some work here and there, trying to find what might be going on with my car, but with no joy. So, I'm just going to give you a rundown as to what has happened to my car within the past six months, and what I theorize may be the cause and what I'm trying to do now.

The evening I bought the car, I was driving home, and about half way back, the engine started stuttering at about 4000 RPM's like it had hit its rev limit, and then the whole car started shaking violently. So, me being scared out of my pajamas, pushed it the rest of the way home and into the driveway. I called the previous owner who really didn't have anything to say about it. He never really drove it to begin with, except to show me a test ride in it, when it worked perfectly. My stomache churns.:mad:

So, next time I tried starting it up, the engine wouldn't turn over and the lights flickered until it died. After getting a successful jump from my truck, I watch the RPM's jump from 100 to 1000 to 100... back and forth until it falls to 0 and dies. So, I initially thought maybe it was running rich and my spark plugs were bad. Sure enough, they were completely blackened. I replaced them with some new ones, flushed out my fuel system, and cleaned my injectors. The engine started up fine for a little while, and I could smell and see the exhaust being rich, before it eventually struggled to survive, dropped to 0, and died again. I have an A/F gauge, but it isn't working [I later realized later this may have been something I should have prioritized] I went to look at my throttle bleed screw, but the entire top has been mashed and destroyed beyond any use, and when I checked my timing gears, they were a few degrees off. So, I recalibrated my tears, cleaned my spark plugs, and tried some minor tuning on the AFC Neo. :pray:

SHAZAM! Finally accelerates up to 8000 rpms! then when I let off the gas, it drops down to zero and dies. My throttle response is completely off. it takes about a full second after I press the gas, for it to accelerate at all. So, for the time being i tried to loophole around this one. For about an entire week, I drove everywhere using BOTH OF MY FEET TO BREAK, CLUTCH, AND GAS. If I had to stop at a stop sign, I would pop into neuteral, while keeping my right foot on the gas to keep it going at about 2000 rpms (this can be kind of tricky), while keeping my left foot on the break. :D

This went fine until one day, I got kind of trapped on the on-ramp and had to WOT to get a space, when I heard a "KAPOW!!!" from my engine. My heart ultimately sank. To this day, I still have no idea what happened and haven't found anything. When I took my exit, I was in the middle of a four lane intersection. When the light turned green and I tried accelerating, the whole car just died. Right there in the middle of a four-lane intersection during rush hour. So, some homeless guy on a bike stopped everyone from moving, and helped me push my car across and all th eway to a parking lot. I had to call my sister to get her Toyota Echo to jump start me. So, after I was able to drive it back to my house, I let it sit in my driveway and whine about it for a few days. I had the whole thing tuned up, vacuum checked, and all sorts of other things by several mechanics who can't figure out why it's idling the way it does, or what went "KAPOW" on the interstate. I just put in a new alternator and battery, and I THINK i checked all my grounds, so I'm not certain why my car died in the middle of the interstate. It still has issues holding a good charge.:ohdamn:

So, on another test drive, after I thought I had tackled it at some point, I noticed the engine temp was getting a little warm. And then a lot warm, and then I pulled over and saw there was steam coming out of my hood. Popped the hood, there was coolant everywhere and everything was hissing and I hated my car more than ever. So I had it towed to my house; found that I had blown my heater and coolant tubing, as well as my thermostat housing and other misc. cooling components. FML right? So I threw more money at my car, and now I'm back to where I started with. :cry:

My car idles like crap, has a bad throttle response, and I'm deployed so can't even work on it. I'm paying a new mechanic some $800 to put in a WBO2 sensor in, along with some NGK Laser sparky plugs, having the grounding looked at, getting the AFC Neo tuned, my gauge fixed, throttle body replaced, and bla. Hopefully it works by the time I get back but there's no telling from here. Anyways, there's not a lot I can do about it right now, I just wanted to hear some suggestions as to what you think may be causing my car to hate me. :barf:

Sorry this got so long to read, and thanks for all your help!

P.S. I named my car "Belladonna" after the adult actress. I found that it translates to meaning "Deadly Nightshad" which I think I may change before my car literally kills me.:sosad:
 
Ok so I would start with 2 things.
1. check your oil for coolant and coolant for oil. With the car cold, have the radiator cap off and start the car. rev it up. If coolant bubbles ferociously out the hole, you have a blown head gasket.

2. boost leak check. the stalling out sounds like a vacuum or boost leak.

You say you have a wideband o2 installed? what are the readings at idle, cruise, and WOT?

And on a sidenote, check those ngk lasers, they are some of the worst plugs to run in a boosted car especially. they are made specifically for longevity, not performance. Throw in some new NGK BPR6ES (7131) or BPR7ES (5534) plugs for like $10 from any parts store.
 
did u do a load test on the battery... assuming the new alt is working fine, and u still cant hold a charge...belladonna might have a bad battery...
 
No boost or vacuum leak, that was one of the first things I checked; and I did actually end up blowing my head gasket when my coolant exploded. I changed out my head gasket and everything surrounding it with a new MLS gasket kit. My oil and coolant are fine now. I'm having the WBO2 sensor installed while I'm out right now, so I haven't gotten a chance to see what the readings are. I was running a narrow-band to begin with. When I replaced the alternator, I replaced the battery along with it.
 
A clogged cat could cause your problem. Disconnect your exhaust before the cat and tie it off to the side and give it a test drive, it will be loud but
then you rule out a restricted cat...good luck!
 
The mechanic said that this wasn't the problem. This is the third mechanic this year alone, that can't figure it out. Is it a possibility that the EMS is having compatability issues with the engine, as it's an EVO III engine? The only issue I could forsee would have been the intake and injectors; but I'm using a SAFC Neo and the 2g manifold is ported to fit... so there's no restriction and the injectors are compensated for. Any other ideas people? I've thrown a couple $G at this for a while now, and I haven't been able to drive like a normal human being in almost a year! Maybe it's just time to sell and move on?... :(
 
I hope you decked the head and block when you installed that MLS gasket.

As far as stalling out have someone check your idle air control. They tend to go bad/seize up causong stalling issues. Also if you have an emu why are you using the safc to control fuel? Get ngks that were specified before and take it to a real tune shop and go from there.
 
Wow, you just described my prob. I'm running an AEM EMS with an EvoIII engine. Can't be of any help though as I'm still trying to figure out my problem. Subscribing to this thread as hopefully you figure it out. My 2G has been sitting in the garage since early August when it started getting tempermental. Haven't had any real time to look at it but plan on it after the winter. Right now it just gets started up and driven around the hood every now and then.
 
I made certain that the head was decked/resurfaced, and the compression is good all across. I was told by someone to try the NGK Iridiums, but I'll take your word over his.

Just shot a message to my mechanic, asking him to check the IAC valve. Can this be checked with a diag tool in our cars, or no?

Also if you have an emu why are you using the safc to control fuel?
I apologize, I miswrote that. I meant to ask if the ECU is possibly having compatability issues.

Haven't said it yet, but thanks to everyone's input so far! I really appreciate all the ideas and criticism, I'm still a noob for tuning :D
 
If it's driving ok than it sounds like IAC or possibly even a leak on the air intake (unlikely). I would just have the IAC checked, as mentioned above, and make sure there is no air getting in between the maf and turbo.


And ditch the iridium, by the cheap NGK's.
 
I may be incorrect, but nothing should be different in an evo III motor than any other dsm motor besides the stock tune on the ecu. And even if there was, tuning would be able to fix it....
 
It's definitely driving anything but okay at this point. I told my my mechanic to toss the plugs and to do it with the right ones. One of the first things I did was check for any leaks in my intake, and made certain all my fittings were tight. At this point, I'm pretty certain it can be narrowed down that it's
1. Tuning
and/or
2. IAC Valve/TPS//Something with the throttle.

There's got to be something wrong with my tuning or somewhere along my fuel system, otherwise I wouldnt' be running so rich. At first I thought it may have been my FPR but that turned out to be wrong.
 
Unless you no everything abought the afc I would get rid of it. Dsm link and a tb changed my idle problems.
 
That's definitely been on my mind, but I'm afraid of buying DSM link for a broken car, know what I mean? If I can get things working smoothly again, DSMLink is #1 on my list though.
 
DSMlink can fix a lot of problems.... and even if you may not know what your doing with it, someone does that will be able to help you. the greatest part of an EMS system it the fact that its the best way to diagnos and troubleshoot your problems.
 
Might be an issue with the Evo III engine with 2g ecu. From what I've read about 6 bolt swaps into 2gs is that the CAS and other sensors will not behave well with the 2g ecus.
 
If you have acess to an evoIII ECU then go for it, but I would jump strait to DSMlink. I can only assume you will potentially do that anyways, and it will fix the problem for sure if its just a wiring/ECU problem.
 
Might be an issue with the Evo III engine with 2g ecu. From what I've read about 6 bolt swaps into 2gs is that the CAS and other sensors will not behave well with the 2g ecus.

the engine is not a problem for the most part as long as the CAS the 6bolts used on the side was used to replace the crank and cas sensor the 2gs come with along with inverting your plug wires. as well as make sure the MAP AND EGR system are routed to function still. (im from california so idk how it is where you live.)

as for the ecm link it was options where you can click for these changes. from there you can simply log all the sensors your wondering about to check they are with in perimeters. and the supporting forum has a wiki that will help you dial most in.
think of ecm link as both a tuning platform and a diagnostics computer.:thumb:
 
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