ECMlink I think I can now say I suck at tuning...

[90TSI717]

Where do you get your Fuel ?
I would be finding somewhere that has better gas...

Or better yet how far are you from these places...? You've got pretty close to the fuel system for it... .

Sheetz Store #191
1098 Harrisburg Pike
Carlisle PA 17013

Sheetz Store #426
1401 Trindle Rd
Carlisle PA 17013

Sheetz Store #412
6260 Allentown Blvd
Harrisburg PA 17112

Pacific Pride - Worley & Obetz
600 Emaus St
Middletown PA 17057

Tom's Erngsville
3167 Susquehanna Trail
York PA 17406

None of those are very close, or at least not worth the drive.

 

[MY1GDSM]

None of those are very close, or at least not worth the drive.

That's a matter of opinion that I'll leave up to The OP

Besides ,Depending on where in New Cumberland you are the 412 store in Harrisburg/vaughn could be 15-20 min drive. Actually for that matter they all are with in 20 min or 15 miles
That's worth it in my eyes... .

 

[90TSI717]

That's a matter of opinion that I'll leave up to The OP

Besides ,Depending on where in New Cumberland you are the 412 store in Harrisburg/vaughn could be 15-20 min drive. Actually for that matter they all are with in 20 min or 15 miles
That's worth it in my eyes... .

True, might be worth it to him.

What makes these stations desirable? A different additive package or higher oct. gas available? Sorry, I'm in the dark about that bunch.

 

[LiquidX]

There are 3 stations not even a mile from the house. Toms, Shell, Hess. I try to get Sunoco when I'm near and use 93 octane.

What is good about the ones you listed? Also pacific pride is for commercial fueling and you need a special card for it.

 

[BigBeans]

There are 3 stations not even a mile from the house. Toms, Shell, Hess. I try to get Sunoco when I'm near and use 93 octane.

What is good about the ones you listed? Also pacific pride is for commercial fueling and you need a special card for it.

Don't overthink the fuel.

Unless you got an extremely rare tank of bad gas, 93 from one place will have the same knock threshold as 93 from the next.

I'll be interested to see what the plugs look like. Maybe you have a lean cylinder knocking or something?

Look carefully at the center electrodes for any tiny little flecks of aluminum, which is indicative of engine damage from the knock.

 

[MY1GDSM]

There are 3 stations not even a mile from the house. Toms, Shell, Hess. I try to get Sunoco when I'm near and use 93 octane.

What is good about the ones you listed? Also pacific pride is for commercial fueling and you need a special card for it.

Oh my Bad, They are E85 stations...

Also,
That's not true about all Pacific Prides Although you do get a better deal if you have one of the CFN cards

 

[gofer]

I've been on vacation and from reading through the posts I thought I'd add a bit too, everyones got an opinion right!

1st Log

The idle FT's look good and exactly where they need to be but your part throttle/cruise FT's could use some work. Just like the MAFComp adjust tool works there is a SD VE Adjust tool that will help you tune for cruise/part throttle conditions on your VE map. Take her for a 15min cruise trying to hit 25%, 50%, and even 75% throttle going up hills and keep it in gear up to 5k at part throttle so you hit the higher RPM load cells. You might sound like a jack ass wrapping out 2nd gear to 5k going 25% throttle but you'll hit the load cells you need to in the VE map. To do it correctly you'll want to change your open loop thresholds in DA for the course of the drive, then change them back after your done. (see image below) After the 15min drive just right click the log and select the SD VE Adjust (CombinedFT) option and it will update the VE map to the suggested values in the cells you hit during the drive. Of course smooth everything out so they interpolate and not jump everywhere.
The knock you get going into the two-step is typical and can be ignored, the knock you see starting at 4.8k in your WOT pull however should not. Drop boost to 17psi and keep timing advance conservative, you want to tune your AFR's to perfect at lower boost levels first to get your SD VE map tuned.
Here what the openloopthreshold values should be changed to for your partial throttle/cruise tuning to get your SD VE map adjusted.​

2nd Log

You said you lowered boost and timing while richening up your AFR's from your first log but I'm seeing about the same amount of boost, an increase in timing advance, and even leaner AFR's?
I averaged everything comparing your pull in both logs between 4k to 7k and here's what they look like:

1st log average...

AFR's: 10.5:1
Timing: 3.6*
Boost: 22.1psi​

2nd log average...

AFR's: 10.9:1
Timing: 6.2*
Boost: 21.2psi​

I see how you made changes in your OpenLoopMaxOct map in the 2nd log but didn't change the OpenLoopMinOct to match... What I suggest doing is using the OpenLoopMaxOctane map in the 2nd log to tune your WOT AFR's. To do it you'll compare WB AFR's throughout the pull to AFREst (which is pulled from your DA MaxOctane Map) and make adjustments to the SD VE map to get them to line up at WOT. Heres the equation you'll use to get the value that needs to be made in you SD table...​

New VE = VE cell being used (AFR displayed on WB / AFR cell being used in your DA table)​

Heres what I see between both logs and a few more suggestions to get your car tuned properly.

-Your logged boost (MAP sensor) looks like a chart of the stock market, that means your either getting compressor surge, have a leaking bov thats fluttering open and closed, or you need to change the way your MAP sensor is installed. Notice how all your values that are effected by airflow are going up and down throughout the WOT pull?
-Lower your boost to 15-17psi and get your VE map tuned to your MaxOct map with nice and solid AFR's. Once you do this at low boost then you can turn it up a bit and only a few changes here and there will need to be made.
-Do your WOT pulls to tune with on the flattest road possible and mash the gas at 3k and take it to 7k, if it starts knocking over 2* making your CEL flash get off the gas or else you might regret it and be taking a tow truck home.
-For timing advance revert back to the stock 2g DA maps and make the below changes to your timing sliders...​

3.5k: -1 4k: -2 4.5k: -4 5k: -4 5.5k: -3 6k: -2 6.5k: -1​

Of course this is all just my opinion but it doesn't look like your getting anywhere so I thought I'd give you my .02 cents.

 

[LiquidX]

Thanks for replying Corey

2nd log was one that was a lot earlier in the day before the post #1 log was done. I kept the minoct map with the higher numbers just to show where I actually started at and then reduced them to (maxoct).

Tomorrow if I have time I'll go and do some more runs and get that information up.

With the boost readings; BOV is a new TiAL, MAP sensor has a dedicated line off the IM and is about 6" long, I haven't heard what would be real compressor surge at all.


All plugs have the same tanish white coloring with no visible damage to the electrode and my compression is 160 across.
Hopefully within a months time I'll be able to get up on a dyno for some accurate tuning.

 

[gofer]

Since your not experiencing any compressor surge and your boost leak tests are solid running that new Tial the only thing I can see causing that type of signal would be a MAP sensor not tightened up. What do you have it mounted to and does it pass the jiggle test with your hand?

You'll definitely want to get it tuned on a dyno running meth so you can get the most out of your setup but it would save you some money street tuning it on 93 first. That way the tuner just needs to setup your tune to switch maps in case your meth tank empties and then tune one map for 93/meth.

Hopefully you understood that equation to correctly change the cells in your SD table to hit your target AFR readings on the MaxOct table. Its very time consuming but worth it, the car will go in and out of boost so much better running SD if you have it tuned properly.

 

[LiquidX]

The map sensor is the omnipower GM style bolted to the firewall. I would like to get as much set up as I can do personally. I'll save some money getting it on the dyno as it's the same person who rebuilt the motor. He's been helping me out as well a bit and curious to see how it is running.

 

[doubleclutch99]

Just a dumb question . have you looked over your valve springs to see if any of them are collapsed or broken? just a thought

 

[LiquidX]

New Manley springs put in with the rebuild.

All of this is on hold for a couple more days. I had a mechanical error (user error) that cannot get fixed until tomorrow night when I get the replacement part in. I did get a couple runs in with the new maps (timing map is different than what's posted however) and managed to get my HP estimated numbers up in the 4s. I'm still experiencing knockret on those maps.

My compressor outlet elbow that was welded onto the HX40 was hitting the frog motor mount which could have contributed to some of the noise the knock sensor read if in the right frequency range would be eliminated now after a grinding session. Still need to tackle the knock sensor and apply RTV to the threads and use a plastic washer to deaden it a little bit.

 

[slow4g6392tsi]

The elbow hitting the motor mount definitely could be the culprit.
Only things I can think of that might cause the knock:
-Turbo elbow
-down pipe possibly hitting oil pan or tcase. Not necessarily when stopped but when motor shifts in mounts during load or during actual shifting of gears.
-Knock sensor loose.
-Knock sensor wire hanging freely rattling against something during pull.

 

[LiquidX]

So your saying a wire from the sensor can cause knock even though it would be the sensor that needs to produce the proper signal? That seems a little odd IMO

Elbow was fix as stated in post. I have a second muffler that hit the body that is located under therese seats. I doubt it's the proper frequency however.

 

[BigBeans]

Any progress?

 

[LiquidX]

Still working on some things. I decided to put in a set of colder plugs and I'm just about done with a solid cruise log. At higher rpms cruising it will occasionally give random lean conditions on AFRest and not sure why. Dave on the link forums was a little confused by it as well so I'm trying to get that situated.

I did install the meth kit and still getting the knock counts so I'm wondering if it may be excessive engine noise at certain RPMs.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Imho you Should just Filled up with E85 an adjusted your global an start adding a bunch of the timing back you had to pull... .

 

[BigBeans]

Still working on some things. I decided to put in a set of colder plugs and I'm just about done with a solid cruise log. At higher rpms cruising it will occasionally give random lean conditions on AFRest and not sure why. Dave on the link forums was a little confused by it as well so I'm trying to get that situated.

I did install the meth kit and still getting the knock counts so I'm wondering if it may be excessive engine noise at certain RPMs.

Your car is baffling. Still getting knock with meth, but if you pull timing the knock goes away. What the hell...???

If it were just engine noise/vibration it shouldn't go away when you pull timing. How much meth are you using? That should really help you increase the knock threshold, but apparently it isn't?

FWIW, the BR8ES (NOT BPR) have worked very well for me. The non-projected tip is a little better for knock control.

BR on the left, BPR on the right:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[LiquidX]

Imho you Should just Filled up with E85 an adjusted your global an start adding a bunch of the timing back you had to pull... .

It's not convienent when the nearest E85 station will take 20min to get to without traffic especially as it would be getting filled up twice as much.

Your car is baffling. Still getting knock with meth, but if you pull timing the knock goes away. What the hell...???

If it were just engine noise/vibration it shouldn't go away when you pull timing. How much meth are you using? That should really help you increase the knock threshold, but apparently it isn't?

FWIW, the BR8ES (NOT BPR) have worked very well for me. The non-projected tip is a little better for knock control.

BR on the left, BPR on the right:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I'm familiar with spark plugs but thank you, I just switched over to the BPR8ES and need to see how they are faring out.

I'm using -20* washer fluid through a 7gph nozzle and it comes on full around 10-15psi

 

[enos1010321]

How about checking the timing belt timing. Everything lined up right? Do you have aftermarket adjustable cam's? Did you degree the cams?

 

[LiquidX]

Yes timing is good, no I do not have adjustables as I don't have the provisions to degree the cams.

I'm going fm be trying a larger nozzle once I get to ordering one. I think a 10gph nozzle would be good. That or I'll go a dual nozzle setup and run 2 smaller ones. Hmm

 

[GS-T_Newboost]

So you give up?

 

[LiquidX]

What kind of post is that?

 

[GS-T_Newboost]

Kind of just like is there any updates on this but worded differently.

 

[gofer]

Read Scott's signature, that should answer your question.