i just want to go fast

[95eclipse16g]

hey everyone so i have had my 95 gsx eclipse for a couple days its a fantastic car. but i think im having a blow out problem. i replace the spark plugs today and i have gapped them a couple of times once at 34 and then 29 and now there at 24..the car jerks when i reach 3k rpm ....could this possbly be a fuel pump problem???? if it helps im at 12lbs boost right now....let me know if u have questions

 

[vida]

Are there any mods to the car? If your going by the stock boost guage theres no telling what its really pushing, because the stock boost guage is electronic and not vac. A couple good thing to do is a boost leak check and a compression check. The jerk your talking about, is it like a slight surging or almost like hitting a big pothole/blickwall?

 

[96awd]

Ricky bobby! Anyway, mods on the car? Do a blt and maybe invest in an aftermarket boost gauge. It sounds like it would be a fuel problem.

Sent from my T-Mobile HTC HD2 using tapatalk

 

[Dhan]

When you say your car jerks at 3,000 rpm, do you mean it hits a wall and won't go higher than 3K or stutters and struggles to rev higher? Fill out your mod list if you have any. We have no idea what you're running.

BTW, the proper gap for our plugs is generally agreed to be .028". Stick with that and you should be fine.

Make sure you have the correct plugs too. You can't go wrong with NGK's BPR6ES (BPR7ES are also recommended when you move away from stock configurations).

 

[project_skyline]

Mod list would be helpful.

Have you done plug wires? Those can sometimes be overlooked and worn out.
Blowout can also be caused by overly lean fueling while in boost. .024 to .028 should be enough gap for you on 12 psi (if thats indeed what your running)

 

[DK77]

Hi guys, thanks for the responses. I am helping him set up the Eclipse.

We have an AEM TruBoost gauge installed and and MBC. It's got a 16G with stock MAF and injectors, and an FMIC. The plugs we have in it are NGK Iridiums BPR6EIX gapped at .024. Other than that, as far as we know it is all stock. The car has 62k miles on it.

The car feels like at around 3k-4k rpm it wants to go but it sort of sputters, it will pull through, however, and after 4.5k rpm, it pulls fairly strong to redline. I have had spark blowout issues on my Stealth, and that's what it feels like to me. The blowout on mine was so bad in first gear that it felt like I was driving an automatic that shifted into second gear.

There are a few areas that I think the issue may be coming from. First and easiest to check is for a boost leak. We will do a pressure test later on today to find out.

Second is the coolant temperature sensor, which the car is throwing a CEL for. I have read that the ECU uses the coolant temp sensor when determining the open loop fuel trims, so that may be the issue. The car was having the same issues at 9psi of boost as well, so it may not be just spark blowout.

If neither of those helps, I will borrow a buddy's Walbro 255 lph fuel pump to see if that helps.

If none of the above are the issue, my next guess would be the coils/plug wires.

Anything else that it could be as well? If none of those fix the problem, I'm not sure what to look for. Once again, thanks for the responses.

The plugs are pretty fouled, which leads me to believe the car is running extra rich, which points me toward either the coolant temp sensor or a post-turbo boost leak.

 

[BrokenTsi]

Seeing how the car is pretty new to your friend, I would start doing normal maintenance tune up things. Change out the fuel filter, spark plugs, and wires etc..... Also, try to figure out a way to check battery voltage while you're doing this. A weak alternator can cause symptoms similar to what you're describing as well.

This is taken from the ecmlink wiki:

2G Open loop mode (any one true)

-Throttle position too high (varies by RPM)
-Airflow too low (units are tricky, but it's very low)
-Coolant temp < 51F
-Coolant temp > 228F
-The O2 sensor did not switch around 0.5v for over 128 seconds while running in closed loop mode. In that case, the ECU locks itself in open loop mode.
All of the following have to be true for a full 5 seconds. If any single one is not true even for a millisecond, the timer starts over and trends in STFT will *not* be moved into LTFT.

The ECU uses more than just the coolant temp sensor to determine open loop. However, if its throwing a CEL, it needs to be replaced regardless. Replace that sensor, check the o2 sensor, and do some normal maintenance stuff. I would also try a normal set of NGK BPR6ES spark plugs while you're doing this.

 

[DK77]

Plugs are brand new, alternator is also brand new. I'll check into the fuel filter. The timing belt was replaced within the last couple of months. We'll do the plug wires soon as well. Basically the car is in really good shape other than not wanting to pull all the way through the powerband.

He will be getting a datalogger asap, which should be able to read battery voltage, as well as the ouput from the o2 sensor. We will also hook up the WBo2 sensor so we have more accurate information on what the car is doing.

I'm hoping that once we fix any boost leaks and replace the coolant temp sensor that the problem will be fixed.

 

[Viva]

CHECK ECU FOR CORROSION! I had the exact same problem. do that and if that doesnt work check fuel pressure

 

[flyineagletsi]

Why are you running iridiums? Throw in the old BP6RES plugs, BLT it and fix all boost leaks, run some injector cleaner through the tank and report back. What injectors is the car on? Does the car have a AFPR? Fouled plugs kind of points towards a massive boost leak rather than blowout.

 

[doubled07]

I would do all the general maintance stuff first. Pressure test the car. Make sure the car is in time. Check all electrical connections aren't loose that they have their metal fastening clips.

Question: Does this problem occur in any gear at that RPM?

You've already done the plugs no worries there. Replace plug wires, fuel filter, inj cleaner, new air filter, All that should be done anyway to set the foundation for any new mods hitting the car soon. Once you are able to data log the car o2 readings and voltage. I wouldn't think voltage would be an issue since you said there is power to redline, but stranger things have happened with DSM's.

 

[2G-GS-T]

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That sounds familier.... My buddy's car did the same thing but it was his ECU. Check that for corrosion like Viva said, and if not that then IDK???
This is VERY odd!!!

 

[DK77]

Why are you running iridiums? Throw in the old BP6RES plugs, BLT it and fix all boost leaks, run some injector cleaner through the tank and report back. What injectors is the car on? Does the car have a AFPR? Fouled plugs kind of points towards a massive boost leak rather than blowout.

We put in Iridiums since that's what I've been running in my Stealth. They fixed the blowout in my Stealth. To run coppers, I would have to buy more since the ones that were in the car were the wrong size. If nothing else fixes it, I may try running coppers, but I think the Iridiums will work just fine. Stock FPR. I went and bought a new coolant temp sensor and the autozone computer said that a symptom of the coolant temp sensor being out is fouled plugs.

I would do all the general maintance stuff first. Pressure test the car. Make sure the car is in time. Check all electrical connections aren't loose that they have their metal fastening clips.

Question: Does this problem occur in any gear at that RPM?

You've already done the plugs no worries there. Replace plug wires, fuel filter, inj cleaner, new air filter, All that should be done anyway to set the foundation for any new mods hitting the car soon. Once you are able to data log the car o2 readings and voltage. I wouldn't think voltage would be an issue since you said there is power to redline, but stranger things have happened with DSM's.

The problem is worst in second and third gear. Are there any walkthroughs on the forum for how to check the timing?

 

[snowborder714]

You do not want to run the iridiums in your turbo car. Go get a set of copper plugs (either set Kreez mentioned above), gap them to .028", and throw them in.

 

[95eclipse16g]

Hey everyone thanks again for trying to help us today we found major boost leaks due to improper placing of some clamps...but DK and I fixed those leaks today.. I just got on here for the first time today so tomorro ill check my ECU.. also I have a aftermarket air intake filter..o2 senser was replaced not long ago but DK bought one this morning but we didn't put it in....Ill put in jecter cleaner in on my next fill up...

 

[BrokenTsi]

I would still take out those iridiums. The cheap $1.79 NGK Gold's work better, IMO.

A serious boost leak will cause the car to run very rich. That could be your "sputter".

I've seen people forget to reinstall that little rubber spacer that goes on the stock turbo when upgrading the intake. They will just stick the aftermarket coupler over the turbo, then tighten it down. A leak right after the MAF can cause it to run funny.

 

[DK77]

We spent all afternoon untill it got dark yesterday running down boost leaks. Basically every coupler for the FMIC was leaking, some from both sides. I think there is still one, coming from maybe the charcoal canister (it's under the battery), and I will probably need to find a couple new T-bolt clamp since I stripped a couple of them pretty bad. Since there were some pretty massive leaks, we'll see if that helps, and we'll probably put some NGK coppers in. Should I go with 7 for heat range?

 

[BrokenTsi]

You can get away with running 7's, but for diagnostic purposes, I would run the BPR6ES's until you are ready to turn up the boost with the proper modifications. Then switch to 7's.

l

 

[project_skyline]

You do not want to run the iridiums in your turbo car. Go get a set of copper plugs (either set Kreez mentioned above), gap them to .028", and throw them in.

I'd love to hear the logic behind that.

Coppers may be "better" but they sure don't last longer.

Seeing as this guy has a 16g with stock injectors I can obviously suggest getting a upgrade fuel pump, FPR, bigger injectors, and a get the car tuned(ecm link would work best).

Its a no brainer the car will run like shit with a upgraded turbo and no supporting fuel mods or tuning.

 

[DK77]

The stock fuel should be able to keep up as long as the boost is not turned up too much, correct. And the only reason why coppers are "better" is because copper is more conductive and therefore you get a stronger spark. In my Stealth, I will run Iridiums because it is a total pain in the ass to remove the throttle body and intake manifold every time the coppers wear out. On the Eclipse, however, 5 bolts is super easy, so we'll switch to coppers.

 

[BrokenTsi]

Good idea.

The problem is just a normal mechanical issue. Just like any other car. You don't need $1000 in upgrades to fix this. Its just a bug somewhere. Your friends car should run just fine with a 16g (at low boost) on stock injectors and fuel pump.

Change the fuel filter, its quick and easy and needs to be done anyways. Do all the normal tune-up maintenance. You'll find the problem soon enough.

 

[snowborder714]

I'd love to hear the logic behind that.

Coppers may be "better" but they sure don't last longer.

Yes, they will last longer, but does that really matter? Other than spending 3-4x the money on iridiums over the tried and proven coppers, here's a few other points.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/274141-iridium-plug-question.html

 

[DK77]

Yes, they will last longer, but does that really matter? Other than spending 3-4x the money on iridiums over the tried and proven coppers, here's a few other points.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/274141-iridium-plug-question.html

The biggest reason to run iridiums on my Stealth is how much of a pain in the ass it is to install new plugs, to get at the rear 3 plugs, I need to take out several intercooler pipes, the throttle body, throttle cable, and the intake manifold. Since I haven't had issues with the iridiums and they will last longer, that's what I will run. On the eclipse, though, where all you have to do is take off 5 bolts, we will run coppers and change them more often.

Also, how much boost do you guys think will be safe to run once we get it to stop stuttering? My goal is about 13-14 psi since it's on the stock fuel.

 

[BrokenTsi]

Its tough to gauge whats "safe" when on the stock fuel system on an upgraded turbo. You're most likely going to need at least an injector upgrade with some way to compensate for the larger injector (ie ecmlink, safc, chip...etc..)

Take a look at the upgrade path listed on the site.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/tech.html

 

[vince6756]

Looks like you guys have got all the bases covered. When you two guys get that problem pegged get the support mods to avoid any further issues your not gonna want after this.