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chanley talon

15+ Year Contributor
774
14
Nov 10, 2005
Spencer, Indiana
Hello, I was wondering what you would do if your car was mine what upgrades you would add to go faster . Let me tell you what im running . 92 awd talon auto. I have the following : Ipt tuning shift kit, starion intercooler ,rubber pipe inch 3/4 , 2g mani ported small16g, using the ss auto chrome dump , polyurethane motor mounts, 1g maf hacked with 3 inch intake pipe 255 fuel pump, 3 inch down pipe, I have no adjustable afpr, im running stock wires and champion rync plugs copper wich i like . I do not have a safc .
My question is what to add next to boost horspower . This car is pretty fast but i want more but i wanna be smart and buy the right things . My motor is brand new rebuilt buy me . I used a cometic headgasket . well that sums it up please help me take the next step thanks:dsm:
 
I really don't want to sound rude, however please proof read your post before you submit.

What i suggest is to follow the 2g upgrade path, it seems as though you have completed the first stage, however you might be missing gauges and maybe a boost controller.
My next mod suggestion would be an Aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, with some type of safc, peferably a dsm link. As for being "smart," i suggest that you do not purchase anything off of ebay. Also remember that, "you get what you pay for...", especially anything in regards to "ss autochrome" Read up, and turn up the boost!

-luis
 
I didnt see a logger listed...
No point in raising boost or going further from this point without that,
at least thats what everyone else would tell you... And would be a smart move,
then Id look into getting the afpr since 255s generally arent suppose to be ran without them, and youd have to tell us how much boost you are currently running because then
someone else could evaluate how much you need to raise or not raise...
Also is your clutch and flywheel stock, Id think after the logger if they were, that would be a good time to upgrade those, or more power will only stress them more,
( and I dont know much about the dsm auto tranny because personally would never drive an automatic unless it was for cruising ) and def dont over look suspension and breaking... Thats my take on it.
 
Actually the automatic is holding up well . Im currently running20 psi and it pulls good and everything looks good . I have a boost controller and apporpriate gauges. I do beleive the afpr might be the next step though .
 
Okay, Ignore the first guy, he gave you a ton of bad information, and the second guy is trying to get you to get a flywheel for an auto. Your auto is fine, you already have a shift kit, an aftermarket tranny cooler wouldn't be a bad idea either. Just keep the fliud level up, and keep it clean and it will last a long time.

Here is a start:
-First AFRP (either AEM or Aeromotive)
-Catback if you don't already have one, ebay is fine (Megan would be a good choice)
-Next either Eprom ECU and DSMLink, or the SAFC/Logger Comber to tune that sucker!
-From here you really need to decide on what you goals are for the car., what its main purpose will be

P.S.- 20psi really isn't a good idea without a logger.
 
jari8378 said:
What i suggest is to follow the 2g upgrade path, it seems as though you have completed the first stage

He has a 1g There is no reason for him to follow the 2g Upgrade path :notgood:

jari8378 said:
As for being "smart," i suggest that you do not purchase anything off of ebay. Also remember that, "you get what you pay for...", especially anything in regards to "ss autochrome"

There is nothing wrong with purchasing parts of e-bay, not at all! i have purchased many different parts on E-bay for my car and helped others with parts for their cars. If you just research and investigate the product your looking into before buying it, you will be fine.

My car is a Reliable and consistant 12 second car, and i used e-bay for many of my parts.

jari8378 said:
Read up, and turn up the boost!

You got the first part right..:toobad:


chanley talon said:
Actually the automatic is holding up well . Im currently running20 psi and it pulls good and everything looks good . I have a boost controller and apporpriate gauges. I do beleive the afpr might be the next step though .

Do yourself a Favor and turn down the boost, to 15 Psi. Without any proper datalogging and tuning eqipment you and just doing harm, by turning the boost up.

THE FIRST THING YOU SHOULD DO IS TURN DOWN THE BOOST

Now you need to follow the upgrade path here is a link, go through each Upgrade and confirm for yourself.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/sub.php?page=1gtstage1power

What i noticed you were missing was a Highflow cat and catback exhaust, or a Catless Exhaust and intercooler piping from rubber to Aluminum Ohh yea and i also definetly agree with getting an AFPR

So after you turn the boost down to 15 PSI and the do remaining mods in stage one, the Next step is Stage 2

You must get fuel management, and datalogging tools. The cheap way to go is with an APEXI SAFC and a PALM DATALOGGER.

But I would suggest DSMLINK

http://www.dsmlink.com/

You will need an E-prom ECU/DSM LINK software/ Laptop to use this program , but It will most likely be the best thing you EVER buy for your dsm.

yea its great :cool: Good luck
 
TSIMonsteR said:
Okay, Ignore the first guy, he gave you a ton of bad information, and the second guy is trying to get you to get a flywheel for an auto. Your auto is fine, you already have a shift kit, an aftermarket tranny cooler wouldn't be a bad idea either. Just keep the fliud level up, and keep it clean and it will last a long time.

Here is a start:
-First AFRP (either AEM or Aeromotive)
-Catback if you don't already have one, ebay is fine (Megan would be a good choice)
-Next either Eprom ECU and DSMLink, or the SAFC/Logger Comber to tune that sucker!
-From here you really need to decide on what you goals are for the car., what its main purpose will be

P.S.- 20psi really isn't a good idea without a logger.


ok actually no im not trying to get him to buy a flywheel for an auto, I was just asking a question as in whats inside his tranny because if its all stock he might want to upgrade in there before major mods, or making more power to the engine will be no point... And everything your telling him is making more power not more durability ( which durability comes first unless you prefer to tear down your engine every 3 months because of neglection)...
And i also said looking into braking and suspension because going fast isnt as important as control and slowing down but of course most of the ppl like this find this out the hard way...
The first guy had just about as valid opinion as you did so dont ignore anyone trying to help, and forget getting a afpr first, turn the boost down first like the guy above me said, the worse that a 255 without a afpr will do is over run your fpr and that wont kill anything, but running 20psi daily without a logger most likely will ( especially without other supporting mods, which you dont have)... I def think the logger should be the very first move after turning down boost ....Then go from there...
 
dude, I wasn't trying to be a jerk, but don't post information if your not sure. He already has a shift kit, so thats about all he needs tranny wise, unless he wants an upgraded TC. I'm sorry if I came out being a jerk.

That a side, the number one thing is maintenance. You really REALLY need a logger or DSMLink so you know what is going on with you car. Also, overrunning your stock FPR can cause damage if it is bad enough. That would definately be the next thing I'd do.
 
1. Datalogger (MMCD/Palm'n'stein/PocketLogger/etc.)
2. Adj. fuel pressure regulator (highly recommended for any fuel pump flowing more than 190 lph)
3. SAFC or other piggyback tuning device.
4. Boost controller
5. 550 cc injectors

You really need the datalogger so you know what's going on with your engine. It's highly recommended that you purchase the logger before you purchase the SAFC (or other piggyback device).

Since you already have the 255 pump, you should get the adjustable fuel pressure regulator. You won't kill your engine immediately, but you'll have shitty fuel economy and when it comes time to tune your engine with the safc you'll find it difficult to do so because the fuel pressure will be maintained by the fuel pump itself and not the regulator. This makes for inconsistent runs that make tuning a bi***.

Turning up the boost means you'll need to keep an eye on the injector duty cycle as well as your knock count to prevent your engine from spilling its guts all over the highway. The more you crank it up, the more fuel you'll need and you'll soon see that it won't take long before you reach a point where the injectors can't meet the demand. Larger injectors will keep up with the demand of increased boost.

From there, there are other things. Turning up the boost on a 16G will soon introduce you to our nasty neighbor, Fuel Cut, a horrid condition that is triggeredwhen the air sensor reads too much air, and the ecu sees this as a dangerous amount of boost. Replacing the factor sensor with one from a 2G will eliminate this problem.

From there, it's tuning tuning tuning, and there's quite a number of tuning guides out there. With these simple mods you can have one helluva screamer. Folks have hit 12's with the 16G, but IMO on pump gas, low 13's might be more realistic.

Since you have an auto trans, you might want to look into getting a high stall torque converter. That will let you launch at higher rpms thant the stock torque converter.
 
Ok how does a logger work with out safc and piggy back? My bosst is lowered now and it does get horrible gas milage. Its fast though but not fast enough. I do have a huge tranny cooler as well . But as far as logger i dont know which one is good and how the heck you hook it up . But i would love to find out. Oh and im getting a evo3 16g turbo next week . But ill keep the boost down!
 
chanley talon said:
Ok how does a logger work with out safc and piggy back?

Well, the logger diagnoses all those CEL's (Check Engine Light) and records vital data. How does the logger work without an safc? Well, it really doesn't. I mean with just the logger you'll be able to see how everything is running, but to actually make adjustments you are going to need the safc. As far as what kind of logger to get, check out pocketlogger.com. I'd also suggest checking for the logger and PDA on ebay.
 
wowzers... 20psi on a 255 with NO fuel control, no logging, nothing.. Nice. Suprised the motor is still alive!!

Things you need:
s-afc (or dsmlink)
AFPR
Data LOGGER
Injectors

After all that get A GOOD DYNO TUNE FROM SOMEONE WHO KNOWS WHAT THEY'RE DOING!

I'd stay off the boost till you get that stuff..
 
Not only do a i have 255 but it has the rewire mod done to it as well! Actually 20 psi i didnt think was that much? maybe 25 30 psi thats killing it for sure but maybe ive been getting lucky? Yes i need to get the safc and a logger what kind of palm do you use ?
I have a zire 71 one hand held but im not sure if will work can i just buy the software and install in my palm? Then buy a plug in cable? Just wandering what is the max boost you can run on a stock dsm?
 
Ya, definitely try to use the palm you have... save some money. Check if your PDA is compatible at pocketlogger.com

How much boost can you run on a stock DSM? Well, in your situation, with no logger or SAFC, I wouldn't run more than 13-15psi just to be safe. Yes, 20psi is waaayyy to much. You've been lucky so far.
 
I don't think the Palm Zire would work. Your best bet is to pick up a Palm III or m-series, those two are known to work without any problems.
 
Your lucky you have a 1G with the lower 7.8:1 compression ratio, if you had a 2g and ran that much boost, something would of gave out by now. You need away to see how much your knocking, and I know you are knocking when you push 20 PSI from 16g with stock fuel injectors. My 14B at 15 psi makes my 450's run at 90% duty cycle. An EVO3 16g at 15 psi maxes out 450's easily. So a small 16g at 20 psi is making those fuel injectors run over 100% duty cycle for sure. So it is time to turn it down to stock boost levels.
 
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