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HX35 on 1G

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dsmdeliveryboy

15+ Year Contributor
2,051
5
Aug 14, 2007
Medford, Oregon
So I've decided I want to run the HX35 on my 90 1G, what I'm wondering is how I can keep my Evo III manifold and bolt the turbo to that instead of going with a T3 flange manifold. I heard something about some BEP Bolt-on housing but haven't been able to find much info on it. Would a short route fmic of some kind work? I only want to run about 23psi on it and maybe meth down the road. Also, what should I do about a downpipe? Will I have to get something custom? If so how would I go about it? I want to run an EWG off the o2 housing, what would be a good one? I plan on running Ecmlink, more than likely 1000cc injectors, I have a brand new walbro 190 fuel pump thats not installed I may see if someone wants to trade me or if it will work that would be cool. I also will be running FP2 cams with the stock valvetrain until I can afford to build the head more. How do I supply the turbo with oil? I heard they don't run off coolant so how would I recirculate my coolant lines? Sorry if this has all been brought up before, I just haven't been able to find specifically the answers I'm looking for.
 
Wow i guess you seriously dont do any research on the holset turbos LOL... There are honestly thousands of posts on this topic.. Bullseye Power out of michigan makes the housings that bolt onto the holsets... I think before you do all this thinking you start reading... I read every page before i did my swap...
 
Ok I understand what I need to do to run this turbo but what I'm not understanding is what oil restrictor to buy and weather or not to run it from the head or oil filter housing. Instead of telling me to search like I've done, help. It makes me mad people can't follow the rule "Do not reply to a thread with "Use the Search" - answer the question, link to the answer, or don't reply at all."

If your going to waste my time and tell me to search don't post in my thread. I'm not a newb and I'm not stupid I just need a simple question answered. I KNOW what supporting mods I need etc.
 
You will want it fed from the OFH with a .075 restictor when you have the balance shaft removed..You will need a good oil drain, use two 45* 10an pushlock fittings, one for the turbo and the other for the oil pan, and a good three layer 5/8" silicone oil drain hose. You can get the 10an pushlock oil drain kit from just about any supporting vender on this site..
 
If you had searched looked and read all of those threads then you would know that a HX35 is a T3 flanged turbocharger. Thus it will never bolt up to a evo III manifold, unless you
A) buy a bolt on BEP housing if you dont know where to buy these i suggest slowboy they sell them
B) Buy a mitsu to T3 adapter plate on ebay

If you go with a) then you can use your stock downpipe if you go with B) then you have to buy the t3 to mitsu O2 housing also on ebay.

The reason we say to search is this is one of the most asked questions on here besides is this a good deal on a 1g/2g gsx.

Also you will need more than a 190l fuel pump most likely a 255 wally in the tank and an inline one as well.

For holset oiling threads check out the follow

Oil drain
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/331710-garrett-holset-turbo-users-your-oil-drain-may-too-small.htm
and feed line
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/244467-holset-hx-35-oiling.html

Having read those fully you would understand that every single motor is different and that you need to buy a gauge and attach it to your oil supply to see what YOUR oil pressure is and go from there. if its below a certain number feed it off of the oil housing if its too high feed it from the head etc etc.
 
My balance shafts are removed, but what do you mean by a oil drain? How come I can't run it from the head with a restrictor? And how do I make the coolant lines work? And if you read my thread you'd notice I said I heard you need the BEP housing to run the Evo 3 but I guess people can't read before they post. Also, I found info from Tim's turbos or whatever and it seems way too overpriced when other people are getting this stuff way cheaper...
 
1) I'm wondering is how I can keep my Evo III manifold and bolt the turbo to that instead of going with a T3 flange manifold. I heard something about some BEP Bolt-on housing but haven't been able to find much info on it.

2)Would a short route fmic of some kind work?

3)Also, what should I do about a downpipe? Will I have to get something custom? If so how would I go about it?

4)I want to run an EWG off the o2 housing, what would be a good one?

5) How do I supply the turbo with oil?

6)I heard they don't run off coolant so how would I recirculate my coolant lines?

1) Go to extremepsi.com. They can get you an Bullseye power TD05 Hotside for the turbo (If bullseye still has them in stock)

2) Yes a short route FMIC will work, I am running the old extremepsi short route FMIC kit at 31psi with no problems.

3) If you get the bolt on housing you will be able to use your current O2 housing and downpipe (Although I would recomment porting the O2 housing to be 2.75 inches because the exit out of the Bolt on housing is a 2.75. You will not have to do anything custom with exhaust if you get a bolt on housing.

4) Tails make the best external wastegates. I would say going with a punishment O2 housing or buying an ebay one and modifying it for a flange for the EWG

5) You buy oil feed kit from extreme psi and supply the turbo with oil from the head. I have balance shafts and have been feeding this turbo from the head for a year now with no problems thus far

6) You take out ## water pipe from the water pump unbolt the hard line and find a bolt that fits into it, and then you just get a regular piece of hose and plug up ## other line with a bolt and hose and clamps

That should answer all your questions. Good luck and have fun! great turbos
 
You will want it fed from the OFH with a .075 restictor when you have the balance shaft removed..You will need a good oil drain, use two 45* 10an pushlock fittings, one for the turbo and the other for the oil pan, and a good three layer 5/8" silicone oil drain hose. You can get the 10an pushlock oil drain kit from just about any supporting vender on this site..

While this may have worked for some members on this site it is not necessarly going to work for the original poster, the correct way is the one i mentioned above. Also holset themselves specify that you need a 19mm oil drain to adequately relieve the turbo of pressure. That translates to a 16 an. Its up to the poster if he wants to get away with a 10an
 
People are tired of spoon feeding NOOBS on what to do. You need to measure oil pressure at your filter housing and head to see if it has appropriate feed oil pressure for your turbo. You want more then 10 psi at idle and no more then 70ish psi max. if neither spots fill your requirements you'll have to run an appropriate restrictor probably by trial and error because every persons car is different. Make sure you have atleast a 10an return line. 12an+ is more ideal though. There is a thread about 3+ pages deep about oiling. I'd recommend buying the BEP housing for the hx35 through BEP directly or maybe through slowboy, tims turbo if they have any. Punishment racing and maperformance have recirculated o2's with vclamp wg setups that are very nice but if you don't want and they put the outlet in the factory spot. 190lph is small but if you don't plan on getting the most out of your setup it'll do the job for 300ish hp. If you do get a 255 you'll need a fp regulator but I'm sure you know that. ECMLINK is good stuff. You need to recirculate your coolant lines or block them off. If there is any other questions you should really read the links provided because this stuff has been addressed. Don't be lazy with your research or building your car or you'll be upset with the results. Happy Modifying and Happy Holidays!

*editing* I was a little slow with my response so sorry for the repeat info.
 
My balance shafts are removed, but what do you mean by a oil drain?
The oil entering the turbocharger has to go somewhere, doesn't it?


How come I can't run it from the head with a restrictor?
Because 10psi of oil pressure at wide-open throttle is obviously too low for a turbo that requires at least 30psi under any load.

And how do I make the coolant lines work?
Unless you end up with a HX35G, you won't have to worry about water. Loop your factory lines or block them off completely.


Also, I found info from Tim's turbos or whatever and it seems way too overpriced when other people are getting this stuff way cheaper...
Cut out the middle-man and buy directly from Bullseye Power. You'll talk to someone that understands what they're selling better than any vendor....I've even heard of a certain vendor asking for your Holset's complete 7-digit build number to determine the correct turbine housing. That's f*cking using your head....you can have only one of two different turbine wheels. :ohdamn:


While this may have worked for some members on this site it is not necessarly going to work for the original poster, the correct way is the one i mentioned above. Also holset themselves specify that you need a 19mm oil drain to adequately relieve the turbo of pressure. That translates to a 16 an. Its up to the poster if he wants to get away with a 10an
Keep in mind Holset's drain spec is based on an unrestricted -4AN feed line going into the turbo. That much oil going into the turbo will obviously require additional drainage.

If you restrict the incoming oil volume through a .075" oriface as we've done with Dave's to control the pressure entering the cartridge, it doesn't require such a gargantuan drain line.

People are tired of spoon feeding NOOBS on what to do.
I should hire you to manage my private message inbox.
 
Ok so my friends Dad works for some place that works on buses and has a HX40 sitting around and is thinking about selling it to me but I don't know for sure if it will work. Here is a pic.
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Ok so I found some install kits, they're actually really decently priced. I keep hearing mixed things on where to tap for the oil so I guess I'm gonna have to check the pressure in both spots. Any input on that HX40?
 
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