The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

how to replace the master clutch, and master slave on 2g awd?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

randizzle420

15+ Year Contributor
250
25
Sep 20, 2009
El Centro, California
I'm wanting to know if there's a tutorial online some where to replace the slave cylinder and master cylinder. I never replaced one before. My master slave is leaking clutch fluid on the floor. A shop said it'd cost $400 to do the job, which is why i'm trying to figure out how to do it myself. is this a huge job or something an average person can do?
 
slave cylinder is easy as remove the banjo bolt holding on the clutch line, remove the two bolts securing it to the car. master cylinder i haven't dealt with yet luckily. after changing both of them you will have to bleed your clutch line and brake lines.
 
well couldn't find a video, but there's two bolts on the bottom of the clutch masters, take the two 12mm bolts through the drivers side on back of the clutch pedal. then there's a pin holding the pedal to the master cylinder take it of and all you have to do is pull it out and your done.
 
Theirs a bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. You will have to use this to bleed all the air out of the clutch line so it just fluid. This is a PITA to say the least and chances are after you think you have all the air out go back after a week of normal driving and their will be more air that built up in the top of the slave cylinder.


-Corey
 
Two bolts and the clutch line has the slave off. If you have a way to get the front end off the ground a little you can change it yourself in about 15 minutes.

Master is a little more labor-intensive, but not to the tune of $400.
 
The master clutch cylinder looks like it's right below the clutch fluid reservoir bolted into the firewall. I know i have to bleed the clutch fluid but the brake fluid as well?? I was told that the brake master cylinder and clutch master cylinder are separate on a manual so how would the brake fluid affect this if it's separate?
 
The master clutch cylinder looks like it's right below the clutch fluid reservoir bolted into the firewall. I know i have to bleed the clutch fluid but the brake fluid as well?? I was told that the brake master cylinder and clutch master cylinder are separate on a manual so how would the brake fluid affect this if it's separate?

They are seperate systems, but the clutch system uses brake fluid.

zcoh2gdsm Probably just had something mixed up while he was typing, you don't need to bleed the brakes.

I changed out my slave cylinder in a parking lot at 10PM at night in below 30 degree weather in less then half an hour. Bleeding took about the same amount of time.

My master took me probably another half hour. I'll link a post i made a while back with a quick walk through on a master cylinder change out. Be sure to go buy a double sided brake line wrench or you run the chance of stripping the lines.

*ninja edit for link*

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/maintenance-repairs/417762-no-pressure-clutch-pedal.html post #18 should have at least 90% of the info you need to tackle the master cylinder yourself. If you can get through the master, you shouldn't need any writeups for the slave.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top