1G How to replace left engine mount bushing?

[XC92]

I removed my Talon's left engine mount to do a TB job, and the rubber bushing inside the round bore that connects to the frame is cracking on top. I think it still has some life in it but I'd just as soon replace it. But I can't find the part #. Is it even available as a separate part and if so what's the OEM part #, or do I have to buy a whole new mount, the way they force you to buy a new control arm on 1G's just because the ball joint is bad? I know that Prothane poly bushings are an option, but I understand that they add some vibration and I'd rather avoid that.

So typical with older cars, you start working on one task and discover several other issues that need to be dealt with. I keep telling myself that one day it'll end. For a while at least.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Oem you need the whole mount you won't find anywhere. Poly is a option or solid.

 

[XC92]

They don't sell just the rubber bushing?

How bad is vibration if I just replace the driver's side bushing with poly, and is that even recommended or would that create harmonics issues?

I removed the other 3 mounts over the past year and their bushings all looked fine. I'm guessing that the driver's side is the first to go because it's the most directly connected to the engine.

Alternately, is there any material I can pour on the cracking bushing that solidifies and "fixes" it? It seems like a real pain to get out.

 

[XC92]

So I looked into it further and I'm probably going to get the Prothane poly bushing kit for just the driver's side engine mount on my 1G Talon TSi AWD.

I'm just wondering if replacing just this bushing and keeping the stock ones on the other 3 mounts would by itself introduce noticeable vibration?

And is it possible to remove the stock bushing including the outer steel sleeve without cutting it, in case I decide to reinstall the stock bushing, using say a press or even a ball joint kit or maybe even bearing kit?

 

[92AWDHX40]

No just replace it now oem parts, 30 years old cars.

 

[XC92]

Replace what, the rubber/poly bushing or the whole mount? The mount itself is fine, just some rust that I'm treating. It's the bushing that's coming apart due to wear, tear and dry rot. We're talking $25 vs. $100.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

This one already has the poly mount in it. Maybe save yours to modify it the way you want it.

Engine Mount 1G DSM and GVR4 Drivers Side With Poly Insert

Performance Partout

performancepartout.com

 

[XC92]

Decent price but is it new and not sawed off like some are? Can't tell from the image angle. And I have no intention of modding my original mount or need for a second one. I just need to replace the bushing. Everything else is fine.

 

[92AWDHX40]

The best thing is do figure out a option, i learned that sometimes we gotta spend money on parts we need or have nothing, or improvise. ITs always something.

 

[XC92]

I don't know what that means. I just need to replace the bushing and the Prothane poly one appears to be the only option, at least if I want something new. I've basically decided to get it and am just wondering how bad the vibration would be if it's the only engine poly mount I have.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Vibration i can't tell its been 20 years with the poly.

 

[XC92]

I'll probably just install it and see, and if it vibrates more than I'm comfortable with then I'll figure out another solution, like replacing the whole mount, or doing that window seal hack, or drilling holes in the poly.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

You will feel more of the motor when you use a poly mount on that engine mount more than any of the others, but there isn't a replacement bushing for that, unfortunately, so you are stuck. Window weld is pretty solid but not near as solid as poly mounts. That mount takes a lot of abuse so I am not sure how long the window weld method would last on it.

 

[XC92]

Looks like either a new poly bushing or replacing the whole mount are my only real options. Given that the first one is 1/4 the cost of the second, that's what I think I'm going to do. If vibration is unacceptable, I'll have to consider options.

Btw I've researched this a bit and there's conflicting advice on which poly mounts cause the most vibrations. Some say it's the front, some rear, some trans, and some left. My non-expert guess would be the left one since it's the most direct connection between the engine and chassis that's not alleviated somewhat by distance or suspension parts that have their own bushings, like the subframe or crossmember. But harmonics are not simple or obvious so what would I know.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I only replaced that one mount to start with and noticed it upon first start up that I could feel the engine harmonics much more but my old mount was a MESS and not doing much when I punched it out of its J-mount so it probably wasn't transferring anything to the body. The next one that I think is harsh is the back roll stop, closest to the firewall.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Your gonna feel the vibration im used to it my dsm with coilovers and polys, with bse. I have polys all the way around.

 

[XC92]

Well I don't have coilovers, just the stock springs with KYB OEM-level struts all-around, no BSE, and ES poly bushings on the subframe, front arms & sway bar. But one way or another I've got to replace that mount bushing. Perhaps there's a way to somewhat dampen the vibration?

So I just ordered the Prothanes. I found them for a good price at CarParts, which I've never ordered from before. Just under $30 with free shipping and after tax.

I'll try to get the old ones out to save the sleeve with some type of press, hydraulic or threaded. Seems pretty straightforward like a control arm bushing, just bigger.

Hopefully the vibration won't be too bad.

 

[Christo]

It is pretty straight forward, you cut the mount insert metal sleeve with a recip saw and it should come out fairly easy. Clean up the mount really well, I sanded it smooth, clean then grease. The new poly insert mount goes in fairly easy. I didn't like the amount of vibration with that poly mount so I went back to a new OEM. Looks like those are not easy to come by anymore but Boosted Fabrications makes one out of Stainless Steel with a couple different options of poly, hard and soft.

Back in the day people would also use 3M window weld and do multiple layers until the mount was filled in.

And one more option

Motor Mount Inserts "How To"

 

[XC92]

I'd get the OEM bushing but there's no Mitsu part # for it and I haven't been able to find one anywhere, so I ordered the Prothane and hopefully the vibration won't be too bad. If it is then I might try to reinstall the torn bushing if I can repair it using Window Weld or something like it, like this cutting board hack.

I wonder if one of the "Goo" products might work as well. Or hell, even cut-up and glued together old inner tubes. This is why I want to avoid cutting out the metal sleeve, by pressing them out with a tool. But hopefully the Prothanes will work out fine and vibration will be acceptable and no hacks will be needed.