HOW HARD IS IT TO REPLACE MOTOR MOUNTS 2G

[CABLODSM]

NEED NEW MOTOR MOUNTS ON MY 96 GST AUTO..

ALL THE RUBBER IN THE MOUNTS ARE SHOT.

TRANS HITS HARD WHEN SHIFTING HAD IT CHECKED OUT AND THEY SAID THE MOUNT IS METAL ON METAL

AND THEY WANT 200 DOLLARS OR SO TO REPLACE THEM ( HE SAID ONLY 2 MOUNTS NEED REPLACED) but i rather redo all..

I NOTICED MAYBE TWO OF THEM LOOK FAIRLY SIMPLE.
THE LOWER MOUNT LOOKS HARD TO GET TO.

IF I DO THIS MYSELF HOW HARD ON A SCALE 1-10.

IM A BOLT ON MECHANIC.. THATS IT. IVE NEVER WENT PAST SOMETHING THAT BOLTS ON..

OR SHOULD I just pay the trans guy i went to to fix just 2.

4g63t

current mods.
GODSPEED FMIC
BIG 16G PORTED CXRACING TURBO (BRAND NEW) STILL HAVENT STARTED VEHICLE WAITING FOR OIL LINE FROM EXTREME PSI
97-99 BUMPER CONVERSION SIDESKIRTS ALSO.
97-99 HALO HID HEADLIGHTS.
TOUCHSCREEN RADIO WITH 2 12S. SOUNDS LOAD SINCE HATCH IS SMALL HA.
2 MONTHS SINCE I BOUGHT AND ALREADY IN LOVE WITH FIRST DSM.

 

[Dsmkauai]

If you do one at a time it's not to bad. You shouldn't have a problem as your just unbolting and bolting things back in . The rear roll stop isnt to bad once you make room to get to it. I would start with the hardest one which to me is the rear roll stop. Then do the side trans mount then the front roll stop then the drivers side. I've done a few this way all with prothane inserts and havnt had one single issue installing! I would get all 4 solid prothane inserts and do them all! Or a nice set of avid mounts!

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

It is a straight forward job. the hardest one to do will be the trans mount. You will need a jack on under the oil pan to shift the engine and trans up and down as needed. Spray the fasteners with PB blaster the night before to make bolt removal easier. This job is a bolt on affair. While doing them, leave them a little loose but connected so you can shift the engine and trans around a little more. Use a block of wood under the jack so you don't dent up the oil pan.

 

[MJBean420]

The hardest one is the one in the back againt the firewall. You have to take out the battery and tray to get to it. The trans one isnt bad. A supporting member black_gst makes the front and rear solid inserts for us autos. The other ones are just junk. They press in nicely and work well. Hit him up and see if he has any more in stock. I think they go fast.

 

[Slobonator4G63]

If your a bolt in mechanic this should be a challenge but a good test to see if your patients are high or low on these Dms machines . As noted by some of out other member the fire wall mount is probably going to be one of the hardest mount to change as it is again under the intake and doesn't leave much room for big guy like myself. Personally when I have changed mine or removed mine in the past I have sprayed all the bolts and the following day I start by jacking up the back side of the motor being careful not to jack on anything important. Remove the mount and remove old insert and replace with bushing and you should be set and it just reverse operations. After the back mount is done it's pretty much a gravy train removing and installing the other mounts. Good luck, and just remember to be carful jacking! It could be ugly.

 

[tuurbo junkiiiee]

It is very simple, be careful while jacking and do them one at a time, it may sound like common sense, but it is un believable how many people try to do all of them at once, TAKE YOUR TIME!

 

[CABLODSM]

Ty

 

[2ndGenOrDie]

Honestly, I've taken my tranny out so many times now and the biggest difficulty with the mounts Is positioning the engine/tranny so that the mount will slide out. I have Energy Suspension polyurethane inserts.

 

[maddogxx]

I put prothanes on all 4, probably got a little over 2 hours in doing the whole job, just listen to what everyone above said and you should have no problems, I sand blasted my aluminum parts to clean them up and I think it looks good now

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[PlanZero]

What's the easiest way to remove the rubber out of the old mounts?

 

[2ndGenOrDie]

What's the easiest way to remove the rubber out of the old mounts?

With the prothane, or whatever you want to call them, inserts you simply squish them in over the old ones. What mounts are you putting in?

 

[Dsmkauai]

Torch them out or just use a sawzaw and carfully cut the inner sleeve in 2 spots and hammer and chisel out. The smaller ones can be pressed out if you have access to a press. The bigger ones are just easier to cut out if you ask me. Just watch your cuts and go slow and even, and don't go to far. Its really not that hard with the right tools and blade. Then just grease up the new inserts and pop them in!

 

[2ndGenOrDie]

Torch them out or just use a sawzaw and carfully cut the inner sleeve in 2 spots and hammer and chisel out. The smaller ones can be pressed out if you have access to a press. The bigger ones are just easier to cut out if you ask me. Just watch your cuts and go slow and even, and don't go to far. Its really not that hard with the right tools and blade. Then just grease up the new inserts and pop them in!

If he bought the energy suspension polyurethane inserts, he doesnt need and shouldnt remove the old rubber from the mount. They are designed to fit into the stock broken mounts. Just my experience though. More than two ways to skin a cat.

 

[bduran1220]

I agree with every one here.
Remove the crossmembe to do the hardest one which the rear mount on the subframe. With a few floor Jacks you'll get them installed real quick. I used a blow torch burn out the old ones and used a saw with flat head screw driver.
I love them. Hardly any wheel hop now.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Yes I know how those Es roll stop inserts work. We have been talking about prothane and his ? Was how to remove the old rubber right! Prothane make full replacment insets for all 4 mounts. And besides that even if he has the Es kit only the 2 roll stops get inserts. The trans and driver mounts get full replacment and therefore need to be gutted like I desrcibed.

 

[2ndGenOrDie]

Oh and btw in my experience taking the rear motor mount off, It Is much easier to take the bolts off if you have like 4 3/8 drive extenders. Connect them all and you can unbolt the mount pretty quick by feeding the socket with the extenders on it down through all of the wires behind the intake manifold. If you take off your upper inter cooler hose/pipe, you can get a wrench and ratchet down on the bolt that goes straight through the mount. Then bam you're done with that mount. Just gotta jack the engine tranny up/down to get the mount out of the car.[DOUBLEPOST=1417934864][/DOUBLEPOST]

Yes I know how those Es roll stop inserts work. We have been talking about prothane and they make full replacment insets for all 4. And besides that even if he has the Es kit only the 2 roll stops get inserts. The trans and driver mounts get full replacment and therefore need to be gutted like I desrcibed.

Oh man I'm sorry, you are correct. I installed mine a long time ago and forgot that two of them DO involve cutting the old rubber out. Sorry for the confusion. I used a saws all to cut mine out. Best part about these is if you mess up you can just go down to a yard and pull a new one and start over. Thank you for correcting me.

 

[Dsmkauai]

No worries bro!

 

[2ndGenOrDie]

Just remember to check and recheck all of the cross member bolts.... first time I removed the crossmember, I had a bolt not tightened and it fell out while test driving it.... good luck with this! Not a hard thing to do.

 

[warren]

What's the easiest way to remove the rubber out of the old mounts?

That's how I did mine not safe but no cared I sprayed wd 40 on the rubber and light on Fire