How to remove/pull head with seized turbo to manifold bolts?

[Spoolin4Ever]

I need to remove my head due to timing tensioner not tightened enough, i'm off by 2 teeth, zero compression in cyl #2.

The bolts that hold the turbo to the exhaust manifold are stuck/seized. I don't want to snap them, I don't know if soaking them with pb blaster will really help. I'd like to just pull the head and deal with the manifold and turbo later/separately.

So what is the best way to pull the head in this case?

 

[BigBeans]

Unless the threads are damaged they're probably not seized, but if they are, unbolt the manifold or take the turbo and manifold off as one piece with the head

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

Unless the threads are damaged they're probably not seized, but if they are, unbolt the manifold or take the turbo and manifold off as one piece with the head

Well see once a while back I tried to change them, I got one changed and the other 3 were binding on me, as if I turned them too hard they would break.

I have another 2g manifold and a 14b, so I thought I'd just use those and set this one aside until I feel like messing with it.

So what do I remove to pull it like you said? Is it just the clamp thingy and he water and oil lines? I've never pulled a turbo yet so I'm new to it.

It's gonna be heavy to pull this way too.

I will soak PB blaster in them, but I'm somewhat skeptical it will work.

 

[BigBeans]

Intake, compressor outlet, exhaust, oil lines, coolant lines.

 

[LiquidX]

You can also try heating up the flange to expand it out and then try removing the bolts. Personally unless you are changing out the turbo, just pull it off as a whole assembly with the manifold. If you do decide to try to remove the turbo, invest in the use of anti-seize.

Drain coolant
Drain oil
Unbolt oil feed line from either the turbo or the feed source (head or OFH)
Unclamp rubber coolant lines
Unbolt oil return
Unbolt downpipe from o2 housing

Lastly just unbolt the manifold from the head and remove. Depending on how much room you want to work with, you may want to remove the driver side cooling fan (AC fan) and the upper radiator hose.

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

You can also try heating up the flange to expand it out and then try removing the bolts. Personally unless you are changing out the turbo, just pull it off as a whole assembly with the manifold. If you do decide to try to remove the turbo, invest in the use of anti-seize.

Drain coolant
Drain oil
Unbolt oil feed line from either the turbo or the feed source (head or OFH)
Unclamp rubber coolant lines
Unbolt oil return
Unbolt downpipe from o2 housing

Lastly just unbolt the manifold from the head and remove. Depending on how much room you want to work with, you may want to remove the driver side cooling fan (AC fan) and the upper radiator hose.

Well there was an exhaust leak because of having the old bolts in there....so I want a system without leaks.

I pulled the radiator, fans and upper and lower hoses.

 

[romeen]

If you're going to remove the head with the intake manifold attached (in addition to the EM) be aware that there may be a support bracket bolted between the underside of it and the back of the block. If you still have this bracket then you will need to unbolt it before removing the head. If both the IM and the exhaust manifolds are attached then it's going to be fairly heavy so you may need a couple of buddies to help you lift it out.

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

If you're going to remove the head with the intake manifold attached (in addition to the EM) be aware that there may be a support bracket bolted between the underside of it and the back of the block. If you still have this bracket then you will need to unbolt it before removing the head. If both the IM and the exhaust manifolds are attached then it's going to be fairly heavy so you may need a couple of buddies to help you lift it out.

Thanks, man..

Hey can I re-use the intake manifold gasket? Is has only 20K on it.

 

[romeen]

Thanks, man..

Hey can I re-use the intake manifold gasket? Is has only 20K on it.

Assuming you have an oem gasket, I personally wouldn't. It may end up sealing fine but considering how inexpensive they are I would just replace it. It would suck if you have to take the IM back off because of a leaky gasket. I would think that once the embossed outlines have been compressed it's less likely to seal up correctly. JNZ has them for $7.99. Maybe get it local and don't pay shipping.

Mitsubishi OEM Intake Manifold Gasket-2G : JNZ Tuning

Edit: Sorry, that's for the 2G. The 1G is still pretty cheap though at $11.09.

http://jnztuning.net/shop/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_37_569&products_id=2105