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2G how to remove the cylinder head

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1995 talon

10+ Year Contributor
44
1
Jan 14, 2011
Grand Forks, North_Dakota
I need to remove my head and im 17 and i dont know what everything is under the hood. i know the basics but thats about it. i know your supost to label and what not but im in a rush. i have school in a couple weeks and need it down. i have a extreme knock and think its a vavle i have 30 in cylinder 4 145 cylinder 3 120 cylinder 2 and 80 in cylinder 1.
I want to leave the turbo man. on and the intake as well. Thank you Austin
 
You can leave the turbo and intake manifold on I've done that. It is best to label everything. I actually pulled a whole 4g in 6 hours including getting it on the ground to remove the head.

Just take your time start off with the wiring harness stuff, label everything, get a sorter to sort out the bolts and label them. It's simple just time consuming, I feel it's best just to get out there and start going at it. Good Luck

The head itself is held in with just 10 bolts.
 
I need to remove my head and im 17 and i dont know what everything is under the hood. i know the basics but thats about it. i know your supost to label and what not but im in a rush. i have school in a couple weeks and need it down. i have a extreme knock and think its a vavle i have 30 in cylinder 4 145 cylinder 3 120 cylinder 2 and 80 in cylinder 1.
I want to leave the turbo man. on and the intake as well. Thank you Austin

Don't do it if you don't know how to..you can just make it worse.

Have someone with experience check it..
And if its Knocking that bad then it is not only you head or head gasket.
 
Why don't you just pull the pan first, and see if any of the con rods can move. If they do, theres your knock, and time to pull that engine out.
 
i dont pull my oil pan for the reason the when i had my buddy that i thought new what he was doing hook up the oil return line for the turbo didn't put the gasket in it and all the oil drained out well alot of it did heard the knock shut it off coasted to a turn off and saw oil coming out. thought shit theres a rod through the block. babyed it a mile home and checked that fitting and it was dripping took it off filled with oil it held fine drove idk 5 miles and knocking came back. like i said my compresion was 30/80/120/140 the car was not warm. idk if that would affect it? anyways, took the exhaust man off,vc, plugs, wires, took the wires out from the injectors, piping to the throttle body,
how do i get the timing belt off? my number is 701-330-5965 if you would rather txt then talk back and forth on here
 
i dont pull my oil pan for the reason the when i had my buddy that i thought new what he was doing hook up the oil return line for the turbo didn't put the gasket in it and all the oil drained out well alot of it did heard the knock shut it off coasted to a turn off and saw oil coming out...

Although I can't really understand much of what you typed.... are you saying that you don't want to pull the pan because you lost all of the oil from the engine and now there is a loud knock?
 
If you're going to let this car turn you into a mechanic, I highly suggest a chiltons, or haynes manual; $25-$30 at autozone, or kragen, for when you don't want, or can't get onto the forums .. :)
 
no i have 4 quart of oil in it now and when the knock started all the oil ran out of the oil return line for the turbo. so im geussing all the shavings are on the ground?

You ran the car out of oil, it has a loud knock now, and you think "shavings" flowed out with the oil..... and you don't want to pull the oil pan to see how much damage you have?

What am I missing here? :)
 
Dude, if you got metal shavings in the oil pan (or on the ground?), you need to pull the entire engine out.





helluvadsm said:
If you're going to let this car turn you into a mechanic, I highly suggest a chiltons, or haynes manual; $25-$30 at autozone, or kragen, for when you don't want, or can't get onto the forums .. :)





As I said, you don't just want to have these manuals on hand. You absolutely must have the FSM (factory service manual) readily available to you.
 
Last edited:
The knocking you heard when you first ran out of oil was the lifters running dry, then after you refilled it and the knocking came back im sure it was a rod bearing that let go. Like everyone said quit wasting your time pulling the head and pull the oil pan first.
 
Black Widow97 said:
Now I am curious as to if the material in them is the same. :hmm:








FSMs marked "Mitsubishi Eclipse" is almost always (much) more expensive than ones marked "Eagle Talon". Just a lil known fact. :) That's why some of us Eclipse guys buy the Talon version, 'cause it's the same freakin' thing, just cheaper.
 
Your face is JDM. LOL

Why get a JDM one? You can find good long blocks in the classifieds on here or on CL from time to time. And that way you actually have an idea what you are getting?
 
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