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How much Horsepower

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red97gsx

15+ Year Contributor
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Jan 28, 2007
eastern, Connecticut
I'm putting a motor together for my 1997 GSX and have an idea of what horsepower i am looking to get out of this. Looking to see what all of you think for AWHP i can look forward to.
This is what i've got

6 bolt block bored, linebored, etc (All engine internals balanced to .5 gram and crankshaft knife edged)
wiesco .20 forged pistons
Eagle rods
ARP main, rod, head, studs
balance shaft elimination kit
Stage 3 head job with 3mm lash adjusters, hks 272's, SI double valve springs
new oil pump assembly
aluminum pulleys
cometic head gasket
magnus intake
1g throttle body ported to 65
new FP exhaust manifold coated
new Forced Performance 3065 w/ o2 housing, 44 tial WG
3" exhaut no cat
GM MAF and translator
coil on plug setup
MSD DIS-2 with tach adapter
Race Turbonetics race FMIC with custom short route
twin Spal electric blower fans
PTE 880's
Walbro 255 with upgraded SS fuel lines
Aeromotive AFPR
Dsmlink
Wideband
Greddy type RS BOV
external engine oil cooler
Poly engine and trans mounts
Fidanza lightweight flywheel and ACT 2600 clutch setup
I'm sure that i'm forgetting more

I put in some of the extra goodies in case anyone has any suggestions of something that i'm missing that would be helpful or compliment what i've got. (I am on a tight budget now as we all are. I spent about 3 times more than i planned already) Finishing asembling the engine and then time to do the swap and break in and then hit the dyno. This is going to be my DD so i need to try to keep it as reliable as possible. Pump gas only (maybe set it up on the dyno on race gas also for weekends)

I'm hoping to see AWHP numbers in the low 400's. Is that attainable with the route that i chose? Thanks in advance guys and girls. This website has been helping me out quite a bit along the way as i'm doing all the work.
 
(All engine internals balanced to .5 gram and crankshaft knife edged)
wiesco .20 forged pistons
Eagle rods
ARP main, rod studs
balance shaft elimination kit
Stage 3 head job with 3mm lash adjusters, hks 272's, SI double valve springs
new oil pump assembly
aluminum pulleys
cometic head gasket
magnus intake
1g throttle body ported to 65
new FP exhaust manifold coated
new Forced Performance 3065 w/ o2 housing, 44 tial WG

GM MAF and translator
coil on plug setup
MSD DIS-2 with tach adapter

twin Spal electric blower fans
PTE 880's
Walbro 255 with upgraded SS fuel lines
Aeromotive AFPR
Dsmlink
Wideband
Greddy type RS BOV
external engine oil cooler

Fidanza lightweight flywheel
I'm sure that i'm forgetting more

You do not NEED any of this stuff in your list above. . . . unless you're looking for a much higher goal soon.

This may save you money. I'd pick and choose in this list. For example: instead of a magnus get a JM fabrications SMIM.

Look at a smaller turbo unless you want much more later. Don't bother w/ an ignition upgrade. Use a 1g modded bov, instead. A wideband is not neccesary but a good place to put excess cash. Upgraded fuel lines is not neccesary. No need to up grade your 2g manifold unless it's cracked. A new oil pump is a good idea w/a high mileage engine. How many miles are on your 6-bolt block? Dual springs are a waste for hks 272s and this power level. At the most, get some manley or crower singles. Aluminum pulleys and lightened flywheel are not neccesary either. And would be better replaced at a time where you want more than 450 whp. That will also help retain reliability and drivability.
 
im not sure if this qualifies as bench racing. That is where you put a mod list on paper and decide who is going to win a race. hes just looking at what his setup is going to produce.
With proper tuning, that looks like a stellar setup, and should last a long time properly driven. How much boost do you plan on running with that 3065 because that could be overkill if your not going to be upwards of 25.
 
It's a good setup, but that's all I'll say on the subject. Throwing out horsepower numbers based on a shopping list is pure unadulterated Ricermath. Leave that BS to the Honduh kids.
Build it, tune it, toss it on a dyno and you'll know.
 
I'm definately not looking to bench race here, i am simply looking to see if the combo that i put together will hold up as a DD and a good weekend racer and simply want to ensure that my combo will make decent power and looking to see if anything i'm putting together will work against my goals. This post was not put on here to see who i could beat, lose to or speculate because just as much of that lies in the hands of the driver as the equipment you put together and tune. Thank you
 
Looks like you've got a pretty nice collection. If it were me, I'd probably change/swap a couple items & not run some of those items but if you already have it looks like you have a nice setup to work with. Trying to estimate the power you'll make is pretty hard to do as there are so many variables to factor in. You can get an idea of what others are running with a similar setup but once again, tuning can play a huge role in the actual power you make. What kind of boost levels do you plan to run & when you say pump, does that include meth injection?

With that being said, & everything running properly & a descent tune, your goal of low 400's should be achievable in probably the 20-25 psi range. Add some meth injection into the tune to up the boost & get more agressive with the tune & you'll be able to get a good bunch more out of that setup.
 
Stick with the basics, be most concerned with additional fuel and proper air flow, no need to get fancy pulleys and add ons to nickel and dime yourself for small hp goals: for your goals, look into an evo3 16g, DSMlink, no need for fancy head work cams and springs do the trick, no need for spal fans(unless keeping temps down is uncontrolable, but i dont see that happening since your building a motor, keep it a bit loose and the temps will stay down), no need for poly mounts, super big waste, i think coil on plug is a waste, no need for DIS2, ( the stock ignition system is well enough) your not gonna be revving to the sky for MSD needs. Not a big fan of fidanza's flywheels, stock is fine( i have a new one u can have if interested) or a nice ACT, and get a AEM wideband, i use em on all my forced induction cars, (import and domestic) just makes things a heck of a lot easier.

Make the car reliable, i much rather be able to get in my car without worries, then knowing i have nice aluminum pulleys under the hood. with this, and some time in tuning i dont see a problem with 400hp.
 
Stick with the basics, be most concerned with additional fuel and proper air flow, no need to get fancy pulleys and add ons to nickel and dime yourself for small hp goals: for your goals, look into an evo3 16g, DSMlink, no need for fancy head work cams and springs do the trick, no need for spal fans(unless keeping temps down is uncontrolable, but i dont see that happening since your building a motor, keep it a bit loose and the temps will stay down), no need for poly mounts, super big waste, i think coil on plug is a waste, no need for DIS2, ( the stock ignition system is well enough) your not gonna be revving to the sky for MSD needs. Not a big fan of fidanza's flywheels, stock is fine( i have a new one u can have if interested) or a nice ACT, and get a AEM wideband, i use em on all my forced induction cars, (import and domestic) just makes things a heck of a lot easier.

Make the car reliable, i much rather be able to get in my car without worries, then knowing i have nice aluminum pulleys under the hood. with this, and some time in tuning i dont see a problem with 400hp.

An evo3 16g is just so way too small for his build ;) . But otherwise, this is exactly what I'm saying.

Note, red97gsx: no one is giving you a direct hp number:thumb: .
 
"Make the car reliable, i much rather be able to get in my car without worries, then knowing i have nice aluminum pulleys under the hood." Correct me if I am wrong, but I allways thought that the only pully that affected reliablity was the crank pully. How would changing your other pullys possibly make a car less reliable? Less weight moving would make it rev faster and make a little more power, but shouldnt affect how reliable the car is. But like I said, please correct me if I am wrong.
 
"Make the car reliable, i much rather be able to get in my car without worries, then knowing i have nice aluminum pulleys under the hood." Correct me if I am wrong, but I allways thought that the only pully that affected reliablity was the crank pully. How would changing your other pullys possibly make a car less reliable? Less weight moving would make it rev faster and make a little more power, but shouldnt affect how reliable the car is. But like I said, please correct me if I am wrong.

I meant, spend money on new brake lines and things like that not pulleys, those are the things that make it more reliable. ;)
 
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