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Homemade Catch can or RRE?

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ryanx99GS

20+ Year Contributor
247
1
Sep 26, 2005
St Louis, Missouri
Okay, I have searched on the subject of using a catch can or not. But, there are so many mixed opinions/solutions to it that I don't know which one to do. The home depot version, the RRE, Greddy, or running 2 cans. Which one is the best for me? The car is my DD and what I have done as far as mods is in my profile. I plan on sticking to the T-25. Thanks for the help and advice.
 
I have the RRE one on my car and love it, its compact and discrete being black. In all reality though you could run the lines to a empty quart of oil and will give you the same effect so its up to you at this point. Noone is better than the other, just preference.


Joe
 
Don't do that.

Don't compromise your PCV system. The catch can has to be sealed or you'll lose metered air, you need two separate (sealed) catch cans if you want one for the VC breather line and one for the PCV-to-IM line, you have to preserve the ventilation of the crankcase, you have to keep your boost from getting into the crankcase, and you have to let crankcase pressure relieve itself through the VC breather...all of that or you have problems. If you've read the "Stupid PCV question" thread in all its glory, you may understand the function of the PCV system and the problems you can run into if you compromise it.

Keep in mind that the PCV-to-IM line sees boost, so if you don't use a check valve in the right place, you'll boost your catch can (maybe it can take it, maybe it'll explode or leak).

I think that the VC breather is the more important one (because oil in that line makes its way through your intercooler) and also the easier one to deal with (because it doesn't see boost). At a minimum, you can put an in-line fuel filter on that line and call it a day.
 
I'm going to pick up some parts and build 2 of the home depot cans found here:
Home Made Oil Catch Can Photo Gallery by AZ Solo at pbase.com

Definitely read the pcv thread before you do anything you're unsure of.

I suggest you read the last couple of posts by calan. The bowls for those compressor filters can't take the environment (oil, fuel, heat) and will crack (and leak). I have the Lowe's version (Kobalt instead of Husky), and the package states the exact same warning about chemical incompatibility of the bowl as the Husky. If I had the tools, I'd fab up an aluminum bowl and thread it into the housing instead of the plastic one...and put a petcock on the bottom to drain oil...and put a window on the side.:p
 
I suggest you read the last couple of posts by calan. The bowls for those compressor filters can't take the environment (oil, fuel, heat) and will crack (and leak). I have the Lowe's version (Kobalt instead of Husky), and the package states the exact same warning about chemical incompatibility of the bowl as the Husky. If I had the tools, I'd fab up an aluminum bowl and thread it into the housing instead of the plastic one...and put a petcock on the bottom to drain oil...and put a window on the side.:p

Ah that makes sense. I haven't read the posts yet but i was definitely planning to evaluate the strength of the can at the store. Thanks for the heads up, guess i'll be looking for an aluminum can as well!
 
Okay, I have searched on the subject of using a catch can or not. But, there are so many mixed opinions/solutions to it that I don't know which one to do.

It definitely seems that way... but if you do enough research, you'll see that there is really only one general arrangement that properly vents the CC under both boost and vacuum, removes oil, and prevents PCV leakage at boost. And if you are running a MAF in blow-through, even that comes at the expense or some unmetered air.

And before I get flamed... yes other setups will "work". But it beccmes a question of how effective they are, and how long your motor will last with the additional vapors and CC pressure.
 
Couldn't he just run two of these?

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James :laser::talon:
 

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Couldn't he just run two of these?

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James :laser::talon:

Yep... if you pull the breather and seal the can ;)

One problem with the aftermarket cans is that they are generic, and hard to mount in a cramped engine bay...unless you have one of those stripped out clean bays like some guys have. That is why I made my own that mounts to the clutch line bracket. There's pics on page #7 in the Stupid PCV thread. I have to make a minor change to it, but it will look and mount the same.
 
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Well he could not seal one and get rid of the second barb fitting and seal the other. That would create in essence the necessary vacuum to make those work. Almost like this.

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James :laser::talon:
 

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The input is the breather, all the vacuum line to the intake is doing is creating vacuum or a place to dump unnecessary pressure to, which is what that breather on top would be doing if you got rid of the one barb fitting like in my picture.

James :laser::talon:
 
The can I posted has an input and an output and is sealed. Those still wouldn't work?

That can looks like it would work just fine..and it's a hell of a price, assuming it's good quality. I would be a little wary of the press-loc sight tube, but it may be fine since this is a dedicated oil catch can. (I tried press-loc fittings and the o-rings failed in them after a few heat cycles).

James,

Not to sound like a jerk, but you need to read the "Stupid PCV..." thread. The reason why what you are talking about doesn't work properly has been :beatentodeath:. :)
 
What i want to know is what the hell the bottom barb will go to? You only need two.

James :laser::talon:

Yep. thats the right check valve

James :laser::talon:
 
At the price of those check valves, I bought 2 of each size in the Kynar (I'm sure I'll use them somewhere :D).

As for the hose, just hit your local parts store and pick up 2-3 feet of 5/16" vacuum or fuel line and some stiff new spring clamps (I got the small spring clamps at Ace Hardware). You can use other sized hose and barbed fittings (1/4" or 3/8"), but I found that 5/16" seems to be the best fit for everything.

Bottom barb should be the drain... and you'll need some type of shut-off valve or draincock. (another $5 Ace Hardware item in my case)

BTW - I can't take credit for the diagram... it was from the Stupid PCV thread ;)

EDIT:

A little advice....Don't use silicone tubing for this (or any other lines that see pressure/vac). It may look purdy, but once it gets hot it can collapse and cause problems. Just stick with good old-fashioned vac/fuel hose.
 
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