JrCRXHF
15+ Year Contributor
- 391
- 1
- Jun 3, 2004
-
Midland,
Michigan
Has anyone done this with DSM motor mounts.
Home Made Motor Mounts
One of the biggest problems in most cars is soggy motor mounts. This could be caused by torn or damaged motor mounts or they are just too soft. This can result in a few different problems. In the case of rod shifter manual transmissions, (up to 6g civics and 3g integras) soggy motor mounts can lead to quite a bit of shifter movement. This problem alone isn't that bad.
The problem with less than satisfactory motor mounts comes into play under heavy launching. Power hopping, or wheel hop, is one of the main problems. Soft motor mounts can act like rubber bands during hard launches. When the engine torques over, it puts pressure on the motor mounts before it goes through to the wheels. Once the motor mounts are pushed to the limit the wheels start turning. What can happen is that the motor can bounce violently causing a little more power to hit the ground (from the tension in the bushings) and cause the car to hop.
Hopping leads to poor 60ft times, loose interior pieces will go flying and worst of all, drive train damage. A broken CV joint can really put a damper at the strip (personal experience!).
There are few solutions out there. Energy Suspension makes poly urethane motor mount inserts. HAsport makes solid poly urethane motor mounts. The cost of the bushings isn't really that bad, but those on a tight budget may be interested in a less costly method. Replacing every bushing with poly urethane bushings of any type may be a bit harsh so I would try one mount at a time. Along with that thought I haven't found replacement torque mounts.
When I originally swapped in my B18C1, my torque motor mounts were already very weak and showing signs of complete failure. The torque mounts help to prevent movement caused by torque. (duh!). If these mounts are weak they can lead to excessive engine movement and cause undesired results. I decided to try a trick that pretty much every Nissan guy out there has tired: Do it your self poly urethane motor mounts. I chose 3M window weld per a friend's recommendation. It's easy to find and relatively easy to work with.
What you'll need:
A tube of 3M's window weld ($10.99 at Advanced Auto)
Caulk gun ($1.99 at Wal-Mart)
Brake cleaner or some sort of cleaning solvent
Something flat and about an inch wide (see pics)
Proper tools to remove the desired motor mount
As you can see, my torque mounts were completely trashed. My thought was that I would only be wasting about $11 on the window weld if I didn't like it. I needed new mounts anyway so I gave it a shot.
Before I started filling the mounts, I took a second to clean them with brake cleaner. Any cleaning solvent should work fine. Given the fact that my mounts were in multiple pieces, I had to make sure that they didn't move around while I filled. It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.
Start by filling the mount roughly half way in. Make sure you don't leave any air pockets. This can probably be accomplished by squeezing the material all the way through. If you didn't chose that route, flip it over and fill it up the rest of the way. I chose to go a little over board with the material and make the mount a little thicker.
Once you are satisfied with the amount of the material, it's time to smooth it out. This may only be a cosmetic issue, but I felt that it would help push the material into areas that you may have missed.
Once you are complete satisfied with your work set it aside and do not touch it for at least a day. I found that waiting a few days allows it to fully cure. However, 24 hours should be more than enough time to allow it to cure and reinstall.
Here are a few shots of the cured mounts as well as shots of the mounts installed in my civic.
*Note: If you have access to rubber gloves, I would very seriously recommend their use during this process. The black "goo" is almost impossible to remove from you hands.
Impressions:
I am thoroughly impressed with the effect of the torque mounts. In the case of my civic, there was significantly less shifter movement. Coupled with my Z-10 radius arms, I've eliminated wheel hop. Even in the most likely wheel hop situations I've experienced smooth and controlled wheel spin along with very solid acceleration.
Since I only modified two of the 5 mounts on my civic, there really isn't that much more vibration inside the car. When it's fairly cold out I do experience more buzzing interior trim but it's only at idle.
I would suggest this modification to anyone interesting in a very low cost edge.
Note: I've seen quite a few people make comments about this idea's reliability and it's appearance. The reliability of this setup is excellent! After a year of abuse and a horrible accident, these mounts held up on my civic. I'll be reusing them in my current civic.
As for the appearance issue, this is a budget repair. Most budget projects do not turn out as show quality pieces.
Home Made Motor Mounts
One of the biggest problems in most cars is soggy motor mounts. This could be caused by torn or damaged motor mounts or they are just too soft. This can result in a few different problems. In the case of rod shifter manual transmissions, (up to 6g civics and 3g integras) soggy motor mounts can lead to quite a bit of shifter movement. This problem alone isn't that bad.
The problem with less than satisfactory motor mounts comes into play under heavy launching. Power hopping, or wheel hop, is one of the main problems. Soft motor mounts can act like rubber bands during hard launches. When the engine torques over, it puts pressure on the motor mounts before it goes through to the wheels. Once the motor mounts are pushed to the limit the wheels start turning. What can happen is that the motor can bounce violently causing a little more power to hit the ground (from the tension in the bushings) and cause the car to hop.
Hopping leads to poor 60ft times, loose interior pieces will go flying and worst of all, drive train damage. A broken CV joint can really put a damper at the strip (personal experience!).
There are few solutions out there. Energy Suspension makes poly urethane motor mount inserts. HAsport makes solid poly urethane motor mounts. The cost of the bushings isn't really that bad, but those on a tight budget may be interested in a less costly method. Replacing every bushing with poly urethane bushings of any type may be a bit harsh so I would try one mount at a time. Along with that thought I haven't found replacement torque mounts.
When I originally swapped in my B18C1, my torque motor mounts were already very weak and showing signs of complete failure. The torque mounts help to prevent movement caused by torque. (duh!). If these mounts are weak they can lead to excessive engine movement and cause undesired results. I decided to try a trick that pretty much every Nissan guy out there has tired: Do it your self poly urethane motor mounts. I chose 3M window weld per a friend's recommendation. It's easy to find and relatively easy to work with.
What you'll need:
A tube of 3M's window weld ($10.99 at Advanced Auto)
Caulk gun ($1.99 at Wal-Mart)
Brake cleaner or some sort of cleaning solvent
Something flat and about an inch wide (see pics)
Proper tools to remove the desired motor mount
As you can see, my torque mounts were completely trashed. My thought was that I would only be wasting about $11 on the window weld if I didn't like it. I needed new mounts anyway so I gave it a shot.
Before I started filling the mounts, I took a second to clean them with brake cleaner. Any cleaning solvent should work fine. Given the fact that my mounts were in multiple pieces, I had to make sure that they didn't move around while I filled. It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.
Start by filling the mount roughly half way in. Make sure you don't leave any air pockets. This can probably be accomplished by squeezing the material all the way through. If you didn't chose that route, flip it over and fill it up the rest of the way. I chose to go a little over board with the material and make the mount a little thicker.
Once you are satisfied with the amount of the material, it's time to smooth it out. This may only be a cosmetic issue, but I felt that it would help push the material into areas that you may have missed.
Once you are complete satisfied with your work set it aside and do not touch it for at least a day. I found that waiting a few days allows it to fully cure. However, 24 hours should be more than enough time to allow it to cure and reinstall.
Here are a few shots of the cured mounts as well as shots of the mounts installed in my civic.
*Note: If you have access to rubber gloves, I would very seriously recommend their use during this process. The black "goo" is almost impossible to remove from you hands.
Impressions:
I am thoroughly impressed with the effect of the torque mounts. In the case of my civic, there was significantly less shifter movement. Coupled with my Z-10 radius arms, I've eliminated wheel hop. Even in the most likely wheel hop situations I've experienced smooth and controlled wheel spin along with very solid acceleration.
Since I only modified two of the 5 mounts on my civic, there really isn't that much more vibration inside the car. When it's fairly cold out I do experience more buzzing interior trim but it's only at idle.
I would suggest this modification to anyone interesting in a very low cost edge.
Note: I've seen quite a few people make comments about this idea's reliability and it's appearance. The reliability of this setup is excellent! After a year of abuse and a horrible accident, these mounts held up on my civic. I'll be reusing them in my current civic.
As for the appearance issue, this is a budget repair. Most budget projects do not turn out as show quality pieces.
.
