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High Oil Pressure Problem (no solution yet)

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DSM4me44

15+ Year Contributor
752
1
Jul 2, 2004
Medina, Ohio
I posted once before a long while back and the problem has not been solved.

Heres the problem........

When i am full throtle not every time but most of the time when i get goin my oil dipstick will pop up under the hood about 2 inches and oil will then be shot out. This ends up all over the engine and burns causing people behind me to see a smoke screen. I have to stop open the hood and push it back down.

I have just replaced my PCV valve and i have a brand new factory dipstick and the problem hasn't changed. If you are wondering im only running 14-16 psi. I also have the correct amount of oil in if not just a hair less then perfect.

Please help

Thanks

BEN :talon:
 
First, it's high crankcase pressure, not oil pressure, they are different.

How are pcv and breather routed? Are you blowing smoke normally without the dipstick popping. Did you replace the pcv with an OEM or a generic brand.
 
I got my pcv valve at autozone so its generic.

My breather i am guessing is the little nipple on the left side there on the top of the engine. I had a little air filter cone on it and i have also tried leaving it off too.

My friends say i will blow a little smoke occasionally and they always complain my car smells when they are behind me but it isn't visible like it is when i have the problem.
 
DSM4me44 said:
I got my pcv valve at autozone so its generic.

My breather i am guessing is the little nipple on the left side there on the top of the engine. I had a little air filter cone on it and i have also tried leaving it off too.

My friends say i will blow a little smoke occasionally and they always complain my car smells when they are behind me but it isn't visible like it is when i have the problem.
The generic one is known to leak, I suggest replacing it with OEM since they don't cost too much. Is the pcv routed back to the intake manifold and not to a catch can?

Excessive crankcase pressure is usually caused by either poor ventilation or pressure air leaking into the crank case via turbo seal, pcv, valve seals or piston rings. I suggest performing a intake leak test, open the oil cap and listen for leaks. If in fact you hear or feel pressure leak into the crankcase, post back and we'll take it from there.
 
DSM4me44 said:
I got my pcv valve at autozone so its generic.
Unfortunately, you now have to check every PCV valve to make sure that it doesn't leak under boost pressure by applying air to the barbed end and make sure nothing comes out the threaded end. It used to be that only the aftermarket ones leaked but with the demise of turbo cars from Mitsubishi using this valve the OEM supply has become hit or miss too.

Steve
 
The breather is open air. The PCV valve is routed into the crank, NOT the intake. I opened the oil cap and listened. It sound like a sink garbage dispolsal. I couldn't tell anything otherwise.

Also, where would be a good place to get an OEM PCV valve?

I greatly appreciate all the help i am receiving. MANY THANKS!
 
DSM4me44 said:
The PCV valve is routed into the crank, NOT the intake.
Can you please elaborate, the pcv sould be routed back to the intake manifold so vacuum in the intake will open the valve and help pull pressure out of the crankcase.

I opened the oil cap and listened. It sound like a sink garbage dispolsal. I couldn't tell anything otherwise.
Are you doing this while the car is running or during a boost leak test (intake pressure test)?

Also, where would be a good place to get an OEM PCV valve?
The dealership.
 
I did the test when my car was running.

I have an after market intake and i didn't connect it so it would suck pressure out and back into my intake back i didn't want oil residue in my intake. I seen other talons done this way, but that might be a problem?

Heres a picture of the set up.....

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
DSM4me44 said:
I did the test when my car was running.
:tease: I thought so. Perform a boost leak test like described here and open the oil cap during the pressure test.
I have an after market intake and i didn't connect it so it would suck pressure out and back into my intake back i didn't want oil residue in my intake. I seen other talons done this way, but that might be a problem?
You still have not answered where is it routed to? you said "crank" in your previous post but I don't know what that mean. Sorry I can't really see where the other end of the hose goes in the picture.
 
With a vented PCV like that, I have to wonder how the crank case can see pressure at all unless exiting airflow through the breather filter is either extremely restricted or blocked completely. I might suggest removing that filter and poke arouns in that PCV opening with a cotton-swab or something of the sort to see if it is clear.

- SK
 
skelly said:
With a vented PCV like that, I have to wonder how the crank case can see pressure at all unless exiting airflow through the breather filter is either extremely restricted or blocked completely. I might suggest removing that filter and poke arouns in that PCV opening with a cotton-swab or something of the sort to see if it is clear.

- SK
Actually if we know for sure the pcv is vented to atmosphere then pcv routing is probably the or one of the cause of his excessive crankcase pressure because he did not hollow out the pcv nor did he replace it with a 1/8" npt straight fitting. Vented pcv will not open unless enough crankcase pressure is built up to push it open. What else is also in play remains to be seen with further tests.
 
oldman said:
The generic one is known to leak, I suggest replacing it with OEM since they don't cost too much. Is the pcv routed back to the intake manifold and not to a catch can?......QUOTE]

In that picture i posted you can see that on the left side of my engine i have a little blue cone filter. Should i have removed that and hooked a hose from there up to my intake (which i blocked off the hole for that hose)? Does that suck the pressure out? As for the PCV valve its hard to see in the picture, its a little above that cone and its connect to a hose that is about 4 inches long and connects to something below the pcv area.

I doubt this helps much but let me know

THANKS AGAIN!
 
DSM4me44 said:
In that picture i posted you can see that on the left side of my engine i have a little blue cone filter. Should i have removed that and hooked a hose from there up to my intake (which i blocked off the hole for that hose)? Does that suck the pressure out?
No, you can leave that one as is for now, the key is pcv.

As for the PCV valve its hard to see in the picture, its a little above that cone and its connect to a hose that is about 4 inches long and connects to something below the pcv area.
This is important because you said this:

The breather is open air. The PCV valve is routed into the crank, NOT the intake.
What do you mean by CRANK? If you don't know where its connected to because some one else did the work, take a close up picture of it. I'm hoping you didn't route it back to the crankcase some how.
 
Bottom line. If the PCV valve isn't connected to the intake manifold then you don't need a check valve (PCV) in the line. If all your doing is venting the block you want to have both ports as free flowing as possible and both need to be filtered. Most guys that do this run both to a filtered catch can. They find a fitting to replace the PCV or gut it.

I like having manifold vacuum purge the crankcase and will live with cleaning the manifold. So I run the PCV to the manifold and the intake breather to an oil separator that is connected in front of the turbo like stock. Basically I just added the oil separator to the stock system to keep the oil out of the IC.

Steve
 
Ok, I think I got it. You are thinking of intake pipe when we are talking about the intake manifold. Intake manifold is between the throttle body and the head and it does looks like the pcv is routed back to intake manifold which is good. I suggest your next step should be a intake leak test to make sure you're not pressurizing the crankcase due to intake leaks.
 
oldman said:
Perform a boost leak test like described here and open the oil cap during the pressure test.
If you're talking about this then yes. Study that article then post more questions if you have any.
 
OK well tonight i met up with some cars and we went cruisin around, prob a good 40 miles. I got on it many times and ran it hard and nothing happened. what the heck. Usually when i hit it hard a few times theres problems. I was on the highway even and nothing happened. I know theres no way it just magically fixed itself. Would the cooler evening have anything to do with it?
 
Well for the 2nd time since I've had my car, my dipstick popped out. I've had the car for two years and mashed it plenty of times without this happening. I have a hose attached to the valve cover with a breather filter attached to the end of it and I have a new PCV valve but it's a Fram one. I did a boost leak test a few weeks ago, I coudn't hear anything coming from the head but I have a pretty bad leak coming from the throttle body seals which I think is what is causing me to run rich.

I think I might just go buy an OEM PCV valve, hopefully that helps.
 
2GeNTSi said:
I think I might just go buy an OEM PCV valve, hopefully that helps.
You'll know for sure, if you take the 5 mins, and check to see if yours leaks when you apply max boost pressure to the barbed end that faces the manifold.

You'll have to check the OEM one too since you can't count on them anymore.


Steve
 
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