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Here is how my CYCLONE manifold will be activated.

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SnowBird

15+ Year Contributor
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Jul 9, 2006
Cleveland, Ohio/Tampa, Florida
Screw all the nonsense with having trouble opening up the butterflys at a certain RPM, or using the canister and solenoids. This is the T25 actuator mod for those who havent seen it. Its an easy way to get them to stay closed and open up at 8PSI. It will run of manifold pressure and will open up the butterflys @ around 8 psi when the actuator arm extends.

For people not sure what the cyclone is good for, it is good for bottom end torque associated with spooling up the turbo, preferably a big turbo, but hey faster spool up on any turbo is never a bad thing in my opinion.
 

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Both my cars use the 7 bolt head. epoxy is used to fill runner transition.
Can you explain why you do this further with the epoxy?
I've been reading about the cyclone for years and have never seen a dyno comparison or log to show and gains. I'm not doubting, it makes plenty of sense how it would benefit.
I've always pondered using one and have passed up many good deals on them. I have a SMIM i'll be installing soon, but who knows maybe i'll rock the cyclone instead.

Aren't you the guy with the EVOX turbo on your car? You seem to be pretty creative with things like this
 
I would imagine he's filling the intake runners with expoxy to make them meet up to a 2g intake port design. I am fairly certain the cyclone IM was made for the large port heads, so he's modified his to work with the small port head.

Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
I would imagine he's filling the intake runners with expoxy to make them meet up to a 2g intake port design. I am fairly certain the cyclone IM was made for the large port heads, so he's modified his to work with the small port head.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

That makes perfect sense, thanks for pointing that out. Now that i look at the pic, i can definitely see the difference.
It was a late night last night:aha:
 
Is there any way to get the runners to open at less boost then 20+??? I'm using a similar setup but how do you know when they open? I'm assuming at stock boost (10psi) the runners wouldn't be open at all?

I test them on the bench with air supply and boost gauge. At 10psi they would be closed. using a T25 actuator they wont start to open till 14psi. If you shortened the fulcrum that operates them you could get them to snap open faster. I think if you halved the distance the wastegate arm travels they would be fully open at ~19psi.

If you need them to start opening earlier than 14psi you need to use a wastegate actuator set at lower psi. 7,8,9,10 psi actuators are not hard to find.
 
I tweaked this one today. I have it opening around 11psi and fully open before 20psi.
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Yes Bud. As 49awdcoupe has mentioned before, the pivot ratio can be
altered to make it turn better tho. I don't know about anyone elses
eyes, but I see (in the bottom pic) it is maxed out before full open &
the actuator arm can't make it turn more anticlockwise to full open.
I see it turning 75-80deg rather than a full 90deg.
If a bracket was made to attatch to the mani & the actuator was 2"
further to the left (in the pic) meaning closer to the bonnet, it would
turn the pivot arm more anticlockwise to open the blades more.
The idea is great, just not quite fully open for wot at high revs.
Cheers !
 
hello my name is Art i have a 1g talon tsi awd. my motor is dead!! and no one is selling a use 4g63 around here so i haveto get the jdm 4g63 with the cyclone intake manifold.

i was wondering can you give me some info on the motor and intake manifold ###!!
1 some one tould me that the cyclone manifold only have 1 vacuum port. what do i need to do with the stock vacuum lines?
2 what do i need to do to make the manifold work? can you give me a part list ###.
3 will the car run ok if the manifold is not hook up?


thanks for the help!!
 
Yes Bud. As 49awdcoupe has mentioned before, the pivot ratio can be
altered to make it turn better tho. I don't know about anyone elses
eyes, but I see (in the bottom pic) it is maxed out before full open &
the actuator arm can't make it turn more anticlockwise to full open.
I see it turning 75-80deg rather than a full 90deg.
If a bracket was made to attatch to the mani & the actuator was 2"
further to the left (in the pic) meaning closer to the bonnet, it would
turn the pivot arm more anticlockwise to open the blades more.
The idea is great, just not quite fully open for wot at high revs.
Cheers !

You are 100% wrong looking at pics. It opens fully the way it is. Thats the whole point of operating on bench first. To diagnose potential problems you didnt know where there.
 
hello my name is Art i have a 1g talon tsi awd. my motor is dead!! and no one is selling a use 4g63 around here so i haveto get the jdm 4g63 with the cyclone intake manifold.

i was wondering can you give me some info on the motor and intake manifold ###!!
1 some one tould me that the cyclone manifold only have 1 vacuum port. what do i need to do with the stock vacuum lines?
2 what do i need to do to make the manifold work? can you give me a part list ###.
3 will the car run ok if the manifold is not hook up?


thanks for the help!!

You need to do some research. You cant run a boost signal to the factory actuator. You can just tie wrap the flapper open till you figure out how to operate it. I ran flappers non functional for months and have good data on how it is improvement over 1G manifold even with runners open all the time.
 
I just got a cyclone motor to put in my 92 awd. I was just thinking that there hade to be another way to do this and i fall into this killer thead.

94 said....So lets just say the ideal open point is 4100rpm. So from that ideal turbo needs to see 24psi at or below 4100 rpm. If turbo sees less than 24psi after 4100 rpm the performance will suffer as the runners will not be fully open. This is an important point as a 16g will typically not hold 24psi at redline. a 20g barely does. larger turbos clearly have no problem. But clearly if you plan to run less than 24psi this method is not for you.

I want to use my stock turbo

would a lesser sping load work?
 
So any1 know if this will work for me?

A stock turbo with a cyclone intake using a 6 psi act to run the flaps.
I think this new method provides a better flap responce.
instead of making it just flap open at 41rpm this way it will slowly open. to me making more low end
 
Im going ahead with this . I wish we had sum real #s on this , opening @ ?RPM would be the best?, and what if it just snaps open -vs-slowly opens?

Im going to try to put the small 6psi in place of the vac and test it. Then try the rpm box later on
 
How do you put the bracket for the t25 wga on the side of the manifold? Do you tap holes and then use something to seal them once they're bolted down?

Also, what epoxy would be best suited to close up the ports to make it match a 2g head like 94awdcoupe did?
 
I used jb weld. make sure runners are very clean before starting. I cleaned with the purple stuff, followed with pressure wash. Then used a die grinder to ruff up surface where epoxy will lay. It takes about eight applications of epoxy. Use clear tape to keep it in runners. its very fluid like when first mixed. The epoxy is ruff ground in between each coat. In short it takes some effort.
 
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