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slinkmerc

10+ Year Contributor
102
0
Mar 12, 2012
San Diego, California
Hi everyone, I have a 420A that I drive everyday and today i decided to take off the throttle body and clean it.

It was extremely gummed up, I've never seen anything like it, i just bought the car maybe a month ago.

The car has been stalling out on me so I decide to clean out IAC and TB, so i take it all apart and put it all back together then go to turn on the car, and it starts out at 2000rpm and climbs to 4.

I turn it off and realize I forgot to plug IAC back in so i plug it in, and turn the car back on, to my surprise it still idle high, around 2500 rpm.

I read to let the car warm up to normal operating tempature so I did and it still idled around 2500, then I got a check engine light and got code P1294 says "P1294 Target Idle Not Reached"

I need help this is my only ride to school and work, fortunately today I have neither but I would like to get this issue resolved ASAP.

Thank you guys in advanced!
 
Always check the IAC motor(Resistance between (1 and 4 terminal) & (2 and 3)should be between 38 and 58ohms. If NOT the problem, then move on to either the Wiring circuit NOT working. If you have a OBD2 reader and can look at the air flow reading...it should be reading 12 IAC (AIS) position, if so move on to view the Throttle body min. air flow and adjust. If the above was fine, then move to checking the "air control system"...which in small words is...is visual check. Throttle position sensor, Which you DIDN'T adjust correctly or gasket leak at the TB base. :thumb:
 
Always check the IAC motor(Resistance between (1 and 4 terminal) & (2 and 3)should be between 38 and 58ohms. If NOT the problem, then move on to either the Wiring circuit NOT working. If you have a OBD2 reader and can look at the air flow reading...it should be reading 12 IAC (AIS) position, if so move on to view the Throttle body min. air flow and adjust. If the above was fine, then move to checking the "air control system"...which in small words is...is visual check. Throttle position sensor, Which you DIDN'T adjust correctly or gasket leak at the TB base

I took off throttle body and it did nt have gasket and I called local auto parts stores and I cant find a freaking gasket.

Also I have no idea how to check for whatever it is you said "96' eclipse GS"

I have no idea if this is relevant or not but at the top of my throttle body there's a hole that appears to be threaded but i didn't see anything the first time I took it off.
 
For the TB gasket give them this OEM part# 04669034

As for the testing, you need to test the IAC motor, and go from there.

I am checking on what threaded hole you maybe be talking about.
 
I took off throttle body and it did nt have gasket and I called local auto parts stores and I cant find a freaking gasket.

Also I have no idea how to check for whatever it is you said "96' eclipse GS"

I have no idea if this is relevant or not but at the top of my throttle body there's a hole that appears to be threaded but i didn't see anything the first time I took it off.

The hole could be a BISS screw.... it controls the base setting for the idle of the vehicle. Ive never really paid attn to no-turbo eclipses, so im not sure how theyre set up... but im sure its similar. Google or search on here the BISS for your car and see if it looks like what youre missing.

I just searched myself --- 420As have no biss screw apparently! Itd be nice if you sent us a pic?
 
Thank you both of you, I have no idea how to test the IAC could you explain please?

Also thank you for the OE gasket number
 
Above is the Resistance for the testing, disconnect your sensor and test the terminals 1 and 4 which are the first and last. After so, test the inner terminals which are 2 & 3. Did you ever adjust the throttle plate/cable on the throttle body itself right?
 
give me one second to take a picture

Above is the Resistance for the testing, disconnect your sensor and test the terminals 1 and 4 which are the first and last. After so, test the inner terminals which are 2 & 3. Did you ever adjust the throttle plate/cable on the throttle body itself right?

I never touched, I never adjusted the cable because I never disconnected it, it seems stiff enough and not loose I will post a couple pictures in a bit

I hope these two photos can help out


yes i believe i saw that same page to find out where it was but that's not the issue :p
 

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If you don't have a thorttle body gasket that's going to cause you all sorts of running issues, if nothing else i'd cut one from some gasket paper.. MOst of the time the parts store won't list it seperately but you have to buy it in a upper end rebuild gasket set that comes with the intake,exhaust, head gasket and all the other little seals you'll need todothe topend except for the injector isolator seals (the round ones that go into the head and the injector sits in)
 
Ok, well i'm gonna call Mitsubishi tomorrow and see if I can get that gasket, then just replace the IAC then hopefully my idle problem will be fixed (hopefully)
 
If you don't have a thorttle body gasket that's going to cause you all sorts of running issues, if nothing else i'd cut one from some gasket paper.. MOst of the time the parts store won't list it seperately but you have to buy it in a upper end rebuild gasket set that comes with the intake,exhaust, head gasket and all the other little seals you'll need todothe topend except for the injector isolator seals (the round ones that go into the head and the injector sits in)

This is true. If all else fails, I used a thin layer of rtv on mine when I didnt have a gasket and needed it running.

Dont replace the IAC unless you know its bad. Dont waste the money!
 
If you don't have a thorttle body gasket that's going to cause you all sorts of running issues, if nothing else i'd cut one from some gasket paper.. MOst of the time the parts store won't list it seperately but you have to buy it in a upper end rebuild gasket set that comes with the intake,exhaust, head gasket and all the other little seals you'll need todothe topend except for the injector isolator seals (the round ones that go into the head and the injector sits in)

This... no use searching for something that probably isn't the problem when a new tb gasket is about 3 bucks...
TBI Base Gasket | 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse 4 Cylinders Y 2.0L MFI DOHC | AutoZone.com
 
This... no use searching for something that probably isn't the problem when a new tb gasket is about 3 bucks...
TBI Base Gasket | 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse 4 Cylinders Y 2.0L MFI DOHC | AutoZone.com

OMG thanks man stupid people at autozone kept telling me that they didn't carry it and what not you are a life saver

Also I already had the IAC (I horde parts) and it only cost me 20$ new, now i'm gonna go to autozone in my ram and gonna get that gasket.

Thanks guys i'm gonna report if that solved my problem.

Also does the throttle body gasket need any kind of sealant?
 
You could of also sprayed to much in the hole in throttle body ruining the mechanisms. Just a thought
 
When I took off my throttle body I had to really mess with my throttle position sensor to get it to idle correctly again.

But as stated above I'd get a gasket, recheck everything, then work on adjusting the throttle position sensor. Kinda senseless to just adjust throttle position sensor so it works when not everything is fine.
 
When I took off my throttle body I had to really mess with my throttle position sensor to get it to idle correctly again.

But as stated above I'd get a gasket, recheck everything, then work on adjusting the throttle position sensor. Kinda senseless to just adjust throttle position sensor so it works when not everything is fine.

How do you adjust the TPS (sorry I ask so many questions it's just I'm new to all this)
 
How do you adjust the TPS (sorry I ask so many questions it's just I'm new to all this)

not sure about the n/t but for the turbo the tps shold read i beleive its .63 volts at idle.. if you dont have a logger taht will show you the reading.. I would say set it as close to middle as possible.. as in the 2 bolts that hold it on should be just past middle of the adjusmtnt area.. ... but best is to use a logger .... just my 2 cents.. and deff. get a gasket if you dont have one... and make sure the elbow gasket is there as well and not ripped..

If you didnt take the TB all the way apart like the shaft out and butterfly out.. you prob didnt touch the TPS so it wont be that.. but if you did then it should be set right...

One more thing sorry...if you did take the butterfly out.. make sure you put it back in the right way.. as in the same way you took it out.. I had a BBK TB that i had the butterfly not in the right way and i was idling high and when it got hot it got even worce.. so make sure that is is in correctly as well..
 
not sure about the n/t but for the turbo the tps shold read i beleive its .63 volts at idle.. if you dont have a logger taht will show you the reading.. I would say set it as close to middle as possible.. as in the 2 bolts that hold it on should be just past middle of the adjusmtnt area.. ... but best is to use a logger .... just my 2 cents.. and deff. get a gasket if you dont have one... and make sure the elbow gasket is there as well and not ripped..

If you didnt take the TB all the way apart like the shaft out and butterfly out.. you prob didnt touch the TPS so it wont be that.. but if you did then it should be set right...

One more thing sorry...if you did take the butterfly out.. make sure you put it back in the right way.. as in the same way you took it out.. I had a BBK TB that i had the butterfly not in the right way and i was idling high and when it got hot it got even worce.. so make sure that is is in correctly as well..

I didn't completely take it apart...whew thought I was gonna have to get a logger thanks for the info though :)
 
Back to the question, I left. Have you checked your IAC motor? Good or Bad, Adjusting the TPS sensor by a computer is the best and most accu. way, But you can all so use this method.

1. Loosen the 2 TPS screws.
2. Put a feeler gauge of .0177" under the stop screw
3. Turn the car to the ON position
4. Rotate the TPS until pins 3 & 4 lose continuity (open)
5. Verify that the voltage between pins 2 & 4 is .4-1 volt with the feeler still in.
6. Tighten TPS bolts and remove feeler gauge.
 
Back to the question, I left. Have you checked your IAC motor? Good or Bad, Adjusting the TPS sensor by a computer is the best and most accu. way, But you can all so use this method.

1. Loosen the 2 TPS screws.
2. Put a feeler gauge of .0177" under the stop screw
3. Turn the car to the ON position
4. Rotate the TPS until pins 3 & 4 lose continuity (open)
5. Verify that the voltage between pins 2 & 4 is .4-1 volt with the feeler still in.
6. Tighten TPS bolts and remove feeler gauge.

I haven't checked it I just needed it to work to get to school and work today.

I'm going to borrow a voltmeter tomorrow(that is what I need right?) And test it.

I'm gonna look for a video on how to adjust TPS without the logger because I'm not exactly sure what you are referring to.


I drove around in the car today and every time I would come to a stop the engine would revv itself to about 1500-2000 rpm then down to 1000 rpm, is that normal or no?

Also this isn't related to anything else but now the car starts getting very very hot when it just idles for a while, a drive thru would be a good example, any ideas why?
 
Do not pass go, do not collect $200. Fix what you know is wrong FIRST then continue on.

As everybody has been telling you PUT A GASKET ON :rolleyes:

For future information, I DO use rtv for my 65mm TB. Its just easier than shaping one that has that thin of a line.

MB
 
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