Daily Driver Mods, Opinions Wanted!

[Fotowntalon]

From the link above: "In order for the fluid to flow at all, the pressure on one end of the pipe must be higher than at the other."

So if we reduce pressure across the entire pipe we have also reduced the pressure difference which will reduce flow. While pressure doesn't always equal flow, in this case it does. So more pressure at the beginning will force more exhaust out at the end due to an extreme pressure difference. At least this is what he began to say. Then he had a change of heart and decided that we need to decrease the pressure drop to increase flow. Actually, increasing the pressure difference between both ends of the pipe will give more flow. While we can't change the pressure of the atmosphere, we can change the pressure inside the pipes. How? By giving the exhaust twists, turns, or even smaller diameter's to create backpressure. Yes, there is such a thing as too small, but I think it's much easier to go too big. If I'm horribly wrong please let me know. But I think my theory is just as legit as his. And I didn't have to resort to 6500hp cars or 1" pipes to explain it.

I'll agree if is easier to go to big, it is actually a very common mistake. As for your first line, that is referring to liquid, exhaust is a gas, gas and liquids flow differently., mainly thing you want to keep in mind through the link is scavenging gasses, and to think of them as "drafting each other"

You guys keep talking about proper sizing, so what diameter of pipe do you recommend? Most of the ones I see are either 2.5" or 3" pipe with 3" or 4" tips. Will cat-back exhaust bolt up to cat delete pipe?
Would this cat delete kit be okay? Yall said OBX wasn't very good quality...

Product Name - OBX Racing Sports

2.5" is a good NA size, tip doesn't really matter. And yes stay away from garbage OBX. The only product I run of there's is there radiator hoses.

 

[dropped99gs]

Since you do not have to worry about emissions just gut your cat. All you need is a Sledge, 24"-30"steel rod to punch through, maybe a vice. A vice made it easier for me. And instead of a sledge I used a Post Driver and was done in no time. The toughest part is getting the mesh out. That is where the vice came in handy. I was able to punch through and push the mesh out enough to grab with a good set of pliers. You will throw a service light though before too long if you gut your cat. I did, and so does just about everyone else. To fix that you will either need an O2 simulator or an extension bung moving the actual sensor further away from the direct exhaust flow.
And the cat is just a couple of bolts and easy on/off with a lil love from a hammer.

 

[Fotowntalon]

You actually lose HP by gutting a cut as opposed to a a straight pipe/testpipe/high flow cat. Reason is because of turbulence created by simply gutting.

I think the article was on a miata, was like a 1-2 hp gain for a high flow and a 1-2 loss for a gut

 

[kronus]

You'll probably get more enjoyment putting money into the suspension and handling components that you would power parts.

-Tires
-Coilovers
-Sway bars
-Brakes

Then enjoy the car.

This. Then enjoy the mods that will swap over to a turbo model when the day comes. My first investment: Twin pot brake kit. Next investment: Konis and some Pro-Kits.

 

[Iodes]

Yeah I don't want to hollow out the cat... I'd rather just straight pipe it or get a high-flow one. Which ever is cheaper, I suppose. I do like going to Cali, so if I drove down there I wouldn't want to pollute the environment by not having a cat

 

[dropped99gs]

Yeah I don't want to hollow out the cat... I'd rather just straight pipe it or get a high-flow one. Which ever is cheaper, I suppose. I do like going to Cali, so if I drove down there I wouldn't want to pollute the environment by not having a cat

From what I've personally encountered and read stories about, if you go with a straight pipe you will want a resonator somewhere between original catalytic converter location and muffler to keep it from being raspy. I mean with a true track car sound doesn't matter so the straighter you can get the exhaust the better. But this is your DD so just take measures to be sure you do not end up with a raspy/unpleasant exhaust note. When I cleaned out my cat and went for a drive i noticed a little more low end torque and a clean/deep exhaust tone.

 

[blindboarder_02]

The best modification I did to my 2gnt was the auto trans to manual trans swap. It lightened up the front end quite a bit. I don't have exact weights and measurements on hand, but the Auto trans is a Goliath compared to the 5spd counterpart. If I had to guess I would say the Auto trans weighs over 150lbs and the manual weighs somewhere around 80lbs. I prefer driving a manual to an auto for the simple fact that it gets better gas mileage. When the auto was in the car I would get 20-28 mpg if I was lucky, after the 5spd swap I was averaging 30-32city and 38-40hwy.

EGR block off, wrapped SS header, CAI, full exhaust. Only mods I've really done besides maintenance and upkeep.

 

[twicks69]

The best modification I did to my 2gnt was the auto trans to manual trans swap. It lightened up the front end quite a bit. I don't have exact weights and measurements on hand, but the Auto trans is a Goliath compared to the 5spd counterpart. If I had to guess I would say the Auto trans weighs over 150lbs and the manual weighs somewhere around 80lbs. I prefer driving a manual to an auto for the simple fact that it gets better gas mileage. When the auto was in the car I would get 20-28 mpg if I was lucky, after the 5spd swap I was averaging 30-32city and 38-40hwy.

EGR block off, wrapped SS header, CAI, full exhaust. Only mods I've really done besides maintenance and upkeep.

I agree with Travis, his car is reliable and easily made the 1000 mile round trip to the Shootout without issues.

 

[codym]

I have a RS and putting the cold air intake and full exhaust actually only ran me about 350 dollars. I didn't notice a magnificant gain in power, but it felt a lot smoother and I immediately felt better throttle response. I do agree that going with GST or GSX would be the wiser choice if your are wanting power, unless you have the time and money to swap your 420a with a 4g63. That's the great thing about these DSM's is there is a crap ton of options for each motor. Best of luck to you

 

[Fotowntalon]

unless you have the time and money to swap your 420a with a 4g63.

If you have the money to do this, please pay me to do it. I'll just sell the 420a, but a 4g63 and make a shit ton of profit.

 

[NAguy]

Oranges and bananas here perhaps, but...

I had a 350Z (big V6 n/a) for many years. For the first 5 years I modded it. Cold air intake, plenum spacer, big exhaust, weight drop, light flywheel, suspension, etc.

The only real changes were the Hotchkis suspension and flywheel. The flywheel didn`t add speed to the car, just a different rev in neutral and shifting experience. Everything else was placebo effect - hey, it FEELS really different. It HAS to, I just spent xxxx dollars!``.

Even with a lot of air moving through that n/a motor relative to your 2 liter, and theoretically more room for improvement, the weight loss of over 150lbs, etc, I still got very little objective change.

My advice: keep your $$ and this daily driver. Buy a turbo car for speed when the time is right.

 

[21_Eclipse]

Dont waste your time and $$.

Mitsubishi Eclipse RS - Report - Import Tuner Magazine

If you must just buy your muffler of choice for the sound your looking for.

Just read this article and you have know idea how much money you just saved me. I thought "my baby" would be a little more powerful but tests dont lie. It hurt but thanks a lot for the eye opener.

 

[Iodes]

It sure has been a while since I was last here, but that was because it took FOUR MONTHS for my car to get back on the road. I'm so happy I can drive again.

I spent time re-reading everything you guys had to say, and it seems the general consensus is "don't mod your daily driver". Okay, I won't, but I do want to make it more efficient. Some of the factory components are so restrictive that upgrading just seems like the logical thing to do to keep a vehicle running strong.

I DO want a cold air intake. I DO want new exhaust, including a high-flow cat. I DO want a new header. Everything else will be aesthetic, like a minimalist body kit, smoked tail lights, etc. I already have decent rims and tires. Won't have money for good suspension until I make my fiance sell one of his going-nowhere project cars.

Just for fun: do you think a 6G72 motor would fit in our cars? It's in the 3000GT base model and Chrysler LeBarons 1990-1995. Those LeBarons use the A604 transmission, same as my car, so would that be a possible engine swap? It's a 3 litre V6 so maybe it's too big for the engine bay

 

[blindboarder_02]

With a ton of fabrication you could put the 6g72 in the car.

I did see a video on YouTube about a 6g73 engine dropping into the N/T chassis, but not sure how long the swap took or other details.

Best mod I can think of is just overall maintenance.
Wheel bearings, ball joints, suspension and brakes.

 

[Fotowntalon]

There is no drop in replacement for our motors (covered about 2133242 times). If you want a different engine, get a new car. And I despise the "dont mod your DD" comment"

 

[jcart953]

And I despise the "dont mod your DD" comment"

^^^this... Just plan accordingly and be realistic about your goals and you should be fine.

 

[dropped99gs]

It sure has been a while since I was last here, but that was because it took FOUR MONTHS for my car to get back on the road. I'm so happy I can drive again.

I spent time re-reading everything you guys had to say, and it seems the general consensus is "don't mod your daily driver". Okay, I won't, but I do want to make it more efficient. Some of the factory components are so restrictive that upgrading just seems like the logical thing to do to keep a vehicle running strong.

I DO want a cold air intake. I DO want new exhaust, including a high-flow cat. I DO want a new header. Everything else will be aesthetic, like a minimalist body kit, smoked tail lights, etc. I already have decent rims and tires. Won't have money for good suspension until I make my fiance sell one of his going-nowhere project cars.

Just for fun: do you think a 6G72 motor would fit in our cars? It's in the 3000GT base model and Chrysler LeBarons 1990-1995. Those LeBarons use the A604 transmission, same as my car, so would that be a possible engine swap? It's a 3 litre V6 so maybe it's too big for the engine bay

I'm with you on having your dd run more efficiantly. This is the same mindset I have with my car, aside from a body kit. Was debating on a different front bumper that really doesn't look like it would come from a body kit. But I think the 2gb front is perfect the way it is. Reduce the wheel gap with some lowering springs, maybe a front lip addition if you want to be different.
Also, you mentioned something about saiving money for a "good" suspension. IMO, since this is a dd I would just go with a reputable set of lowering springs. I.E. tein, h&r, etc.... Search here and see what others say is the best bang for your buck. My car is dropped about 2" and the ride is not too bad. You "feel" everything in the road, but it's not harsh or anything.
I've recently performed just about everything that you are wanting to do in the last year since I've purchased my car. Here are some round a bout costs thus far.
Header w/downpipe - (craigslist/used) $40
2 1/2" cat back - $220 (custom 1 piece)
Accel Plug wires, $80
NGK plugs - $36
cold air + K&N $90
Springs came with the car when I bought it, but you should be able to find some for under $150.
I'm going to look at some possible tein springs today and he's asking $75. If they are real then consider them sold ya know?
A high flow cat can get pricey, go test pipe and use a spark plug non fouler to space out your lower O2 sensor to keep the CEL off.

With your fiance having his own projects, entice/encourage him to show you how to install everything mentioned above. Unless he welds and can get the exhaust tubing along with a pipe binder, then the exhaust is the only thing that you would have to have a shop do.

Have fun!

 

[91stocker]

Just read this article and you have know idea how much money you just saved me. I thought "my baby" would be a little more powerful but tests dont lie. It hurt but thanks a lot for the eye opener.

Your welcome haha.

 

[zac420a]

i was wondering if putting a throttle body and intake manifold on my 420a. also wanted to go full exaust and cam, cam gears, injectors, jet programmer and msd wires, coil pack, i wana keep car and no turbo right now. wats a safe injector size?

 

[Nicklepage1010]

i was wondering if putting a throttle body and intake manifold on my 420a. also wanted to go full exaust and cam, cam gears, injectors, jet programmer and msd wires, coil pack, i wana keep car and no turbo right now. wats a safe injector size?

Leave them stock until you swap the turbo onto the car, that way you dont have to buy a new set. Swapping the injectors means youll need to compensate with timing and a way to tune for the new injectors.
Its going to be alot more than just plugging new injectors in.

 

[TheEagle]

Yea I agree with most. Just keep it running good and looking nice. the 420a block on its own was never made to be a powerhouse. Maybe new camshafts to help ya along a little bit along with a chip possibly.

But on the other hand I have been around many turbo 420a's that are really nice cars. It takes a lot more work though and a lil money but in the end you get what you want. Just remember that if you live in a state with strict emissions testings this may not be the best route.

I agree with dropped. Reliability and drivability should be stressed.

With the "Don't mod your daily driver" thing honestly.. plan well, think real, and everything will be fine. Nothing big and giant you can't cover in a weekend.

With the engine ideas everyone is having... it really isn't worth dropping a huge engine into these cars (or any engine other then whats made for it). Just like this big thing of putting a 4g63t in. Sure, it can be done. But at what cost? How much fabrication? Its like on YouTube watching a fiat 126 beat a 911 Porsche... when does it become more then practical?

My biggest thing is if your looking for something that has power, go old school muscle, not newer import. Be willing to spend a lot in time and cash but it can be some of the funnest times in life.

 

[WES_393]

My biggest thing is if your looking for something that has power, go old school muscle, not newer import.

I'd take my newer import over just about anything Detroit pumped out with exception of the Unicorns. 25mpg and easily obtain 350hp? Yes please.

But I don't think an NA 420a would fall into that category.

 

[91stocker]

I'd take my newer import over just about anything Detroit pumped out with exception of the Unicorns. 25mpg and easily obtain 350hp? Yes please.

/facepalm

Detroit invented power. Camaro's, mustangs, vettes, they are the standard of speed, power, and reliability. That same standard that every import is measured against.

Id take too much factory power to put down on stock tires any day, over no power, no potential, and wrong wheel drive. All put into a grocery getting, geo metro looking, econo shit box.

 

[TheEagle]

Just saying... old school muscle running between 500-1000 HP isn't that far of a stretch. Newer import have their place, but everyone is obsessed with power, and that's what these massive engines could do.

Though imports have their place and I'm not saying they can't be good cars. I like a well built car regardless if its import or muscle.

Also, and interesting article to think about when thinking of 420a's.

Codename: Upgrade, Xbox 360 Talon: Eagle Talon ESR , 1997 420a turbo The Forgotten DSM

 

[WES_393]

/facepalm

Detroit invented power. Camaro's, mustangs, vettes, they are the standard of speed, power, and reliability. That same standard that every import is measured against.

Id take too much factory power to put down on stock tires any day, over no power, no potential, and wrong wheel drive. All put into a grocery getting, geo metro looking, econo shit box.

The Evo 4-10 are econo shit boxes? The RB26DETT is a grocery getter? Becuase that's the import power I'm talking about, not Civics and Sentras. If you read my last post completely you would have seen that I posted "I don't think the 420a falls into this category".

1hp per cubic inch from the factory is what deserves the facepalm.