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2G Help needed Running lean/only getting 5lbs boost

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VivaLaOC

Proven Member
124
25
Mar 16, 2021
La Grande, Oregon
So since I've gotten the car in the past month and a half I've done maintenance and added a boost guage and MBC, fixed the oil pressure sensor and a few other things I can't think of off the top of my head. Anyhow, so when I'm driving and I'm in any gear I only get maximum 7lbs of boost normally only about 4 or 5. I checked the IC for oil in it and it had some in it, not a super significant amount but there was some on my finger when I pulled it out. I was getting the coolant temp code p0125 for a little while but that has stopped, and I also had a TPS code but that hasn't came back, but the other night I had a code for fuel trim bank 1 pop up and that was the first time for that one. I know it's because of an O2 sensor but would any of these things cause me to only get max 7lbs of boost? It's definitely running lean it idles normally at about 875-925 rpm but any help would be greatly appreciated so I can get the full potential from the car. Also, no I don't plan on running anything like 18lbs i just want a little bit over stock
 
Also. Not good I know, but I just took them out and this is what they all look like
So yeah I'm running rich for sure
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I'm going to be a little blunt. I apologize in advance. If I'm reading your profile correctly you have a nearly if not completely stock car.
Multiple people have asked you questions and you are not answering. So....that being said I will summarize.
You've had the car for a month and you've purchased a fuel pump and fuel regulator and a boost gauge
Here are my observations and suggestions.

Do a boost leak test. PERIOD.
Check the things suggested.
Check the knock sensor, It is known to deteriorate and leak out the black goo on it. The car will yank ignition timing and slow down. This has been mentioned already.
What is your plug gap? Correctly doesn't answer the question. What is the number????
Why did you choose bpr7es? It's the wrong heat range for a stock car and will only foul sooner. BPR6es is correct. It's not a problem for now just a point of information.
Did you or did you not change the plug wires?
Get rid of the nylon line on the boost gauge. It's possible you're boosting correctly and don't know it.
Don't buy any more modification parts until you fix the problems. You really don't need the fuel pump and regulator but they won't hurt anything. You will get more bang for buck out of other parts.
For some decent live data, I suggest the torque app on a smartphone and an OBD2 bluetooth adapter.
Get a factory manual either paper, online etc so that you have correct information in front of you.

We are trying to help you but please take the advise we give, answer the questions asked and I'm sure we can help you get this car running correctly and help you get a plan to improve the car to your liking.
The folks on this board have decades of experience.

If you reread this thread you are sort of all over the place. Again I will state this. Help us help you.
 
Also. Not good I know, but I just took them out and this is what they all look like
So yeah I'm running rich for sure
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You've chosen a platinum plug. Not a problem for now but generally not the group's favorite plug. DSM uses a waste spark ignition. I've seen them eat a platinum plug pretty quickly. What's going on with the last plug on the bottom? Looks like the electrode is missing.
If the plugs are fine, clean them and you could use them for now. Generally, most use a plain regular electrode NGK in whatever heat range is appropriate. BPR6ES is the stock standard. 2g actually use a bpr6EKN but it's not necessary. I don't care for them because they're expensive, difficult or impossible to gap and the regular bpr are cheap cheap so I just change them as needed.
 
I'm going to be a little blunt. I apologize in advance. If I'm reading your profile correctly you have a nearly if not completely stock car.
Multiple people have asked you questions and you are not answering. So....that being said I will summarize.
You've had the car for a month and you've purchased a fuel pump and fuel regulator and a boost gauge
Here are my observations and suggestions.

Do a boost leak test. PERIOD.
Check the things suggested.
Check the knock sensor, It is known to deteriorate and leak out the black goo on it. The car will yank ignition timing and slow down. This has been mentioned already.
What is your plug gap? Correctly doesn't answer the question. What is the number????
Why did you choose bpr7es? It's the wrong heat range for a stock car and will only foul sooner. BPR6es is correct. It's not a problem for now just a point of information.
Did you or did you not change the plug wires?
Get rid of the nylon line on the boost gauge. It's possible you're boosting correctly and don't know it.
Don't buy any more modification parts until you fix the problems. You really don't need the fuel pump and regulator but they won't hurt anything. You will get more bang for buck out of other parts.
For some decent live data, I suggest the torque app on a smartphone and an OBD2 bluetooth adapter.
Get a factory manual either paper, online etc so that you have correct information in front of you.

We are trying to help you but please take the advise we give, answer the questions asked and I'm sure we can help you get this car running correctly and help you get a plan to improve the car to your liking.
The folks on this board have decades of experience.

If you reread this thread you are sort of all over the place. Again I will state this. Help us help you.
They're gapped at .28, no I didn't replace the wires, and the fuel pump and regulator aren't installed they were just on sale so I got them while I could. And they're brp6s i posted the photo although they're the incorrect ones they're fine for now and ill get rid of the nylon and use some of the hose I have lying around and like I said ill get the blt done asap
 
is that picture misleading or is the last plug damaged?
Im half tempted to pull the entire plumbing for the turbo tomorrow morning including the fmic to check everything over. If I do, I'll include pictures. Also, ill pick up a BT OBD2 reader tomorrow for live data before I go tearing everything apart ill keep you guys updated
 
There is no fuel inside an intercooler. This won't tell you anything about being rich or lean. The intercooler is dirty and needs to be cleaned. It's common for some oil to be in there from the crankcase vent. This is also why many people run catch cans.
 
There is no fuel inside an intercooler. This won't tell you anything about being rich or lean. The intercooler is dirty and needs to be cleaned. It's common for some oil to be in there from the crankcase vent. This is also why many people run catch cans.
I know, I just took the ic out so I could check all the tubes and stuff out to see if there's any apparent reason I have a boost leak and the top ic clamp was so loose on there that I could move it with a screwdriver so that was definitely leaking there, I plan on getting some brake cleaner to clean it out fully when the autoparts store opens
 
I know, I just took the ic out so I could check all the tubes and stuff out to see if there's any apparent reason I have a boost leak and the top ic clamp was so loose on there that I could move it with a screwdriver so that was definitely leaking there, I plan on getting some brake cleaner to clean it out fully when the autoparts store opens
Clamp one end shut and pour some gasoline in there. Swirl it around and dump it. You can’t get enough brake clean down in there to reach everywhere.
 
I suppose if you have no other means at the moment a visual inspection is better than nothing. A hole that size is for sure causing you problems.
Exactly, yeah I don't have the means to do a BLT right now, but yeah I found that hole and also, the BOV wasn't very sealed either, there was some kind of sealant poking out from the side and I pulled on it and it broke off, so I took the BOV off and put rtv on there to seal it up. I'm gonna pull the bottom IC tubing tomorrow morning because its been raining off an on all day so I decided to wait until tomorrow, other than that hole and the bov not being properly sealed i haven't seen anything else but I'm sure ill find some more things along the way 🙄
 
I suppose if you have no other means at the moment a visual inspection is better than nothing. A hole that size is for sure causing you problems.
I said f**k it and pulled it today and there wasn't any holes visually, but once again I checked the turbo over and still no shaft play and it spins freely. But, I did discover another issue, and it was this.

That line wasn't connected whatsoever, it was buried under a bunch of wires in the back, I was checking all the lines out making sure they were all connected and seated properly and found that

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